New model Single Six won't half cock, cylinder doesn't lock when cocked. - Ruger Forum

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New model Single Six won't half cock, cylinder doesn't lock when cocked.

This is a discussion on New model Single Six won't half cock, cylinder doesn't lock when cocked. within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Just got my first single-action revolver (New Model Single-Six). I changed the trigger spring and after I reassembled the revolver it no longer half-cocks and ...


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Old Yesterday, 10:13 AM   #1
 
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New model Single Six won't half cock, cylinder doesn't lock when cocked.

Just got my first single-action revolver (New Model Single-Six). I changed the trigger spring and after I reassembled the revolver it no longer half-cocks and the cylinder does not lock when cocked. What did I do wrong?

Also, the two back screws were very hard to remove. When I got them out it appeared to me that the loctite had actually eaten into the metal and damaged the screws. When I reinstalled them they went in with some difficulty. I am afraid the frame has been damaged by the screws. I have ordered new screws from Midway to determine whether the frame was damaged. I will contact Ruger if they do not install properly.

Also, I noticed when I cocked the hammer there was a lot of friction. When I polished the strut knob with a Dremel tool I noticed there was a ridge that should not be there as far as I am concerned. I ordered another strut from Midway.

Are there any excellent after-market sources for Ruger Single-Six parts?

Very disappointed with the quality.



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Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM   #2
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puddy, Your first problem is …. New Model Single-Sixes don't have a half cock hammer position …. they load and unload with the hammer fully forward.

There is a spring and plunger located in a hole in the grip frame, directly under the cylinder latch. If the spring and plunger are not installed properly (the plunger pushes up on the cylinder latch), the cylinder won't lock up. I'll bet the gun worked just fine before you took it apart!
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Old Yesterday, 03:43 PM   #3
 
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There is a very good Video on the assembly of Ruger New Models on Rugers site.
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Old Yesterday, 03:48 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
I'll bet the gun worked just fine before you took it apart!
Isn't it amazing how often this is the case?
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Old Yesterday, 06:22 PM   #5
 
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Yes, the new model Ruger single six revolvers can be a little tedious and difficult when reassembling the grip frame to the revolver frame. There are a couple of little springs and plungers that have to be correctly oriented and you almost need three hands and hold your mouth just right!
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Old Yesterday, 07:25 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wproct View Post
Yes, the new model Ruger single six revolvers can be a little tedious and difficult when reassembling the grip frame to the revolver frame. There are a couple of little springs and plungers that have to be correctly oriented and you almost need three hands and hold your mouth just right!
Which is the main reason Iíll only put a screwdriver on one to make sure the screws are snug !
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Old Today, 03:44 AM   #7
 
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I bet operating instructions are in the owners manual.
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Old Today, 05:24 AM   #8
 
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Thanks to most of you for your replies. I did not notice that the cylinder latch was not in the raised position after I assembled the frames. I believe the person who assembled the gun the first time was lucky. The cylinder latch plunger was slipping off the cylinder latch very easily when I assembled it because there was a drill spur on the edge of the grip frame hole. The plunger would not fit in the hole at all. I removed the spur and assembly was somewhat easier. The reason it was only somewhat easier was because the loop of the Wolff trigger spring I installed was almost 1/16" longer than the original. Depressing the trigger spring to allow the two frame sections to mate was extremely difficult. I had to slide the sections apart as far as possible (the pawl spring was not touching the grip frame) and then jam the trigger spring down hoping not to crush the pawl spring. wproct's comment was very apropos. Removing and installing the two back screws was difficult because the screws had a lousy chrome plating job which messed the threads up. I am guessing the frame threads are OK. Is steel harder than chrome?
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