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This is a discussion on New to me Mini within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Originally Posted by sandog Congrats on your acquisition, and welcome to the forum ! Minis and red dots go together like pizza and beer. Scopes, ...


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Old February 20th, 2020, 03:15 PM   #31
 
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nice landscape

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandog View Post
Congrats on your acquisition, and welcome to the forum !
Minis and red dots go together like pizza and beer.
Scopes, any scope, adds too much weight and messes with the Minis great handling and balance.
I only use a scope for load testing, as my eyes aren't what they used to be.

I can shoot as well at 100 yards with a dot as I can with a scope, and the dot is good enough to hit C-O-M at 300 yards and beyond.
Add the dot is much faster to get on target, and much better in low light.

Avoid cheap dots, some don't hold zero and go through a lot of batteries.
Expect to spend at least $200 for a good RDS like the Vortex Venom or Burris FastFire III.
There are some exceptions, a Primary Arms micro dot is right at $100, and they hold up great, another sub $100 dot that many run is the Bushnell TRS-25. Some have had issues with their TRS-25 but Bushnell will send you a new one.

I prefer the small T.V. screen micro dots like the FastFire. All 3 of my Mini-30's have them:

Some of the tube style dots mare almost as big and heavy as a scope. This Aimpoint Pro was nice, but was massive compared to a FastFire or Venom, and sat up way too high, even on the Ultimak rail:


I had a Hogue stock for a while. I like the green color, but it was heavier, thicker and too "grabby" compared to the Ruger synthetic factory stock. It tends to grab your shirt when you are shouldering the carbine.
Here is the Hogue I had, with metal done in FDE Cerakote:

I like the Ruger stock much better, light, slim, stiff and grabby only where you need it, where the checkering is.
I just prefer a color other than black, so I Cerakote my Ruger stocks in FDE or Sage green.

I find a synthetic stocked Mini with red dot to be a perfect rig for SD, SHTF or just plain fun. Although I have had at one time, or could have just about anything, I prefer my Mini-30s over everything else I've tried.


From where I sit in Massachusetts, that is some nice looking country



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Old February 20th, 2020, 05:03 PM   #32
 
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I put a Redfield 2X7 Accu-Range scope on my 582 and a shotgun lace-on raised cheek pad. It comes up nicely and is a fine coyote gun out to 200 yds. It is a consistent 1.5MOA shooter with the Accu-Strut.
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Old February 20th, 2020, 06:52 PM   #33
 
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I've owned a Ruger Ranch Rifle for about 15 years. Traded a nice Russian SKS for it, but have never looked back. It came with a plastic after-market stock that I replaced with a Hogue. Added weight, but felt and fit better. Since I had experience with it's big brother the M-14, I added an M-14 style flash hider. I have used a dot sight in the past, but now use a Vortex 1.75 - 5X scope. Thus outfitted, my best group has been 1.25" and average accuracy is around 2 MOA.
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Old February 21st, 2020, 01:14 PM   #34
 
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New to me Mini

I just installed an Ultimak rail on the mini. Followed the instructions but would like to see if others think it is correct. If the gas block didnít line up there would be a gap between the barrel and the gas block correct?




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Last edited by Mamiela; February 21st, 2020 at 01:25 PM.
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Old February 22nd, 2020, 02:40 AM   #35
 
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Yes, those gaps are normal. And I have a slight gap between the end of the Ultimak and the stock at the front as well.

The gas bushing pretty much ensures that the gas block is in the right place, not much room for movement. But there is a tiny bit of side to side play.
You'll need to make sure the dot ( or in the case of your pic, the Protector Mount) is level and not canted.
If it is canted, loosen the gas block screws (and the barrel clamp under the Ultimak) and twist the whole unit (Ultimak and lower gas block) until the Mount and dot look straight up on your Mini, then retighten.
You just don't want to be sighting down the top of the gun and see the Fastfire tilted one way or another. It won't be much, but it can be slightly tilted one way or another.

My camera angle is off a bit here, but a good check is to see the same amount of Ultimak on either side where it meets the front of the receiver.
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Old February 22nd, 2020, 06:05 AM   #36
 
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New to me Mini

Thanks. I have the rail on and I am waiting on the optics and a inch pound wrench before I loosen the gas block screws and loctite them down to 30Ē pounds. I will make sure the rail is level by sight and a feeler gauge.


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Old February 23rd, 2020, 03:50 AM   #37
 
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Sandog what is the sling mounting bracket you have? I like the way it is mounted.


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Old February 23rd, 2020, 05:26 AM   #38
 
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Mamiela, those are Magpul M-Lok or Moe rails. Short Picatinny rails 2 or 3 inches long, bolted thru the stock fore end. The rails are polymer, plenty strong but don't weigh much.
You can also get the rails in metal but they are double the price.

You have just enough room with a synthetic stock for the flat T-Nuts that Magpul provides to clear the space between the inside of stock and heat shield.
( On a wood stock Mini there is no space between the stock and heat liner, so on those you have to countersink the T-Nuts ).

Place the rail where you want it, mark where the bolts will go with a marker, and then drill holes slightly larger than the bolt size. Bolt the rail on and you are done. I'd put some Blue Locktite on the threads as well.

The rear swivel needs to be on top of the stock. If it is on the side, like the front, the Mini will want to roll away from you when carried.
And leaving the rear swivel location on the bottom as in the factory configuration would be bad, the Mini would really want to roll to the side.

For a synthetic stock you unscrew the rubber butt pad and take it off, position the swivel, drill holes, and secure the nuts inside. I used some needle nose pliers to hold the nuts while I tightened the screws. For the rear swivel on a wood stock, just replace the supplied bolts with black wood screws.
On an older style wood stock, you can replace the top butt plate screw with the swivel, no need to drill holes) :

The factory bottom mounted swivel position is really limited as far as carry. You can put the rifle across your back if you need both hands free, but that 20 or 30 round mag in the Mini will be digging into your back. And a rifle slung on your shoulder isn't very fast to get into action. And a rifle carried muzzle up on your shoulder will whack low hanging branches.

Maybe it's my Army training but side carry makes a lot more sense. Across your chest in the ready position, it is very quick to bring up and shoot. If you have to drag something or otherwise need both hands free, you can sling the Mini across your back and that mag won't be digging into your back. If you run your rifle dry or there is a malfunction, just let it drop down and draw your handgun. 1.3 Million active duty military personnel carry their weapons the same way:

Some will say "it's just a Mini, and I'm not planning to go into combat".
I doubt I'll be going into combat again at age 62, I carry this way because it's more practical and much more versatile than bottom carry.

Should you want to carry the Mini casually over your shoulder, you can still do that with the side mount system, plus so much more.
My daughter's mini is set up the same way:

Putting a rail on both sides makes sense, you can use the rail on the off side for mounting a light. The rails, flashlight clamp, and flash light (Surefire 6P or G2X Pro Dual Output) are all polymer, tough and inexpensive but lightweight.
Your fingers of your support hand are right there to press the end cap to turn the light on or off.


I've never had any use for a bipod (except for shooting small rodents at long range) but you could also mount a rail on the bottom of the stock for that purpose.
On the Choate pistol grip stock in one of the above pics, I had a Tango Down forward grip on the bottom rail, that grip felt good along with the stock's pistol grip.

This is the Magpul part I use to secure the sling to the rail. They are not cheap but they are Melonite coated steel and have dual release buttons to prevent accidental release.
Cheaper rail mount swivels can be had as well.

You could also forego the rail mount, and just mount a swivel directly without the rail, like these Magpuls, but having the rail gives you more options.
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Old February 28th, 2020, 11:51 AM   #39
 
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Havenít shot it since putting the new rail and red dot on but will soon. Happy to have the heavy sight off of it.

Thanks Sandog for all the advice on the mods.




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Old February 28th, 2020, 11:51 AM   #40
 
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Old March 7th, 2020, 06:26 AM   #41
 
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Well Iím worked on the mini today and couldnít get the sight level. If I get the sight level the gaps in the gas block are different. Not sure Iím going to leave this rail on and now Iím a little bit nervous about shooting the rifle.


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Old March 7th, 2020, 06:53 AM   #42
 
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Relax. My Aimpoint H-1 is a little cockeyed too. Just keep your eye on the dot. Mines a good shooter.


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Old March 7th, 2020, 10:23 AM   #43
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grays View Post
Relax. My Aimpoint H-1 is a little cockeyed too. Just keep your eye on the dot. Mines a good shooter.


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Thanks. 80 rounds flawless.


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Old March 7th, 2020, 10:29 AM   #44
 
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Congratulations looks very nice to me!
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