mamiela, many that are new to the Mini try to make it into a DMR, or "sniper rifle" and turn a fast handling, joy to carry Mini into something that's much more clumsy, unwieldy, heavy and not at all suited for having to shoot at something close in or engaging multiple targets.
As an example, check out the Mini in this guys thread. Is it more accurate than a standard configured Mini ? Probably, a bit, but at what cost ?
(His pics don't show up in the first reply, but there are several pics of it and his M1A further down in reply #14 ) https://rugerforum.net/ruger-semi-au...g-brother.html
Look at his rifle pics, and then look at CoSteve's Mini-14 and M1A on the second page.
I know which ones I'd rather have, and it isn't the pimped out ones with the sharp edged stocks and huge optics.
You can do all this to a Mini, big scope, uncomfortable stock and bipod, for just a tiny bit of accuracy gain, and make it useless for just about any other use but sniping prairie dogs or punch holes in a paper target.
I used a forward mounted Nikon 2-8.5x pistol scope (forward mounting on the Ultimak rail keeps the scope nice and low and out of the way of the action) and a bipod to try to connect on prairie dogs with my Mini-14. It helped, but even with my 1 1/2 MOA Mini, 200 yards was about as far as I could consistently hit them. (They aren't big animals)
In contrast, the Remington R-15 in .243 and 4-14x Minox scope shown next to it, a 3/4 MOA rifle, could consistently hit them to 400 yards. A rig much better suited for the "precision" role.
We see countless threads here and on the "other" Mini forum, perfectunion, where guys try to turn a lightweight fast handling Mini into something it is not, a precision long range rig, then they complain that the rifle is still not capable of touching all the bullets together at 100 yards plus.
Hey, it's your money, but we're just trying to save you money, time and frustration, as we've all been there.
Do the usual accuracy mods, i.e., buffers, reduced gas bushing, trigger job, shim the stock if necessary, and then find the load, or loads that shoot the best in your Mini.
If your eyes are still young, stick with the iron sights, or at most, mount a 1 ounce micro dot like the FastFire on it.
A lot of guys, probably mostly younger guys, grew up shooting nothing but scopes, and have always shot off a bench rest and sandbags.
When it comes down to protecting yourself and loved ones, you aren't going to have a bench handy, or have time to lay down and use a bipod.
And if you have to take out several bad guys at close range that big scope is not going to be a help but is going to be a very big handicap.
So get out and get good with your iron sights, and shooting from unsupported positions.
Off hand, kneeling and prone. You'd be surprised how well you can do from prone with a sling wrapped around your arm, as well as you could with a bipod.
Just like many of us were trained to do in the Army ( and Marines).
I can honestly say that from a career as an Infantryman in the Army, and hunting big game in the northern Rockies for decades, the times I've felt the need for a bipod have been...zero.
The only time I used a bipod have been shooting small varmints at distance, and only then because I had all the time in the world to get a shot off, and the grass was too tall to shoot prone with a sling.
Get your Mini shooting the best, with loads that it really likes, and you'll be able to hit a 4 inch gong at 200 yards consistently. Hitting a 12 inch gong at 200 is something that you should be able to do easily without a scope or bipod to help you.
Don't be like many and use magnification and a bipod as a crutch, work on your skills instead.
This is what can be done from prone with a red dot ( no magnification).
Sure, a scope would allow me to get out further than 300 yards, but at the expense of a much heavier, bulkier, poor handling carbine that wouldn't be near as effective for sub 300 yard shooting.