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Ar556 free float handgaurd removal

This is a discussion on Ar556 free float handgaurd removal within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I bought an Ar556 about a month ago and I am trying to attach a fore grip and some other accessories. I am trying to ...


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Old February 13th, 2020, 01:13 PM   #1
 
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Ar556 free float handgaurd removal

I bought an Ar556 about a month ago and I am trying to attach a fore grip and some other accessories. I am trying to remove the free float handgaurd so I can mount everything but I can’t seem to get it off. I removed the two Allen screws at the base and it won’t budge. Am I missing something? Should I just use a rubber mallet and tap it off? I didn’t want to go beating on it for no reason lol.
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Old February 13th, 2020, 04:25 PM   #2
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I dont have that model, but I'm 98% sure friction is holding it on at this point.
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Old February 13th, 2020, 05:32 PM   #3
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Im with neon, friction or the clamping force on the barrel nut by the rail is whats holding it more than likely. If you place a small wood wedge between the relief cut on the bottom of the rail it should basically push the clamp apart and allow it to slide off. Only other conclusion is that possibly they may have used loctite to secure the cross bolts and it may have seeped into the area where the rail and barrel nut meet,. Not lkkely but possible. I always loctite mine.

Those rails attach like the midwest gen 2 ss rails, clamp onto the barrel nut, no big deal.

You can see on my custom 243 winchester I built the midwest rail attaches very similiar below.
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Old February 13th, 2020, 05:35 PM   #4
 
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Ok thanks. I’ll give it a try as soon as I get home later. I just didn’t want to try and force anything that wasn’t meant to be forced.
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Old February 13th, 2020, 05:38 PM   #5
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Ok thanks. Iíll give it a try as soon as I get home later. I just didnít want to try and force anything that wasnít meant to be forced.
Just take it slow, if you use a wood wedge only drive it in deep enough to allow the rail to slide off. If you tap on the rail, use a plastic tipped hammer or rubber mallet, no metal to metal contact or you will damage the finishes. But removing the bolts and spreading the gap, should allow it to come gently.
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Old February 13th, 2020, 05:42 PM   #6
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Its been a while since I installed any midwest rails, but I do remember that the midwest gen 2 SS rails come with a tube of loctite, and directions tell you to put it on the outside of the barrel nut when you install the rail on the barrel nut. Not sure if ruger does that. If so a little heat from a propane torch will break the loctites bond and allow it to come off.
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Old February 14th, 2020, 08:42 AM   #7
 
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Well I got my fore grip installed. Turns out, if you buy the wrong mounting option for your mlok handgaurd it doesn’t work out to well.
Things I learned over the past 2 days are 1)MOE doesn’t easily mount to mlok, 2) when you Purchase the correct accessories install is pretty simple, 3) I’m definitely a newb, 4) you guys are awesome and thanks for the help and feedback.
I did not try to remove the handgaurd any further once I realized what I did lol.
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Old February 15th, 2020, 07:36 PM   #8
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Well I got my fore grip installed. Turns out, if you buy the wrong mounting option for your mlok handgaurd it doesnít work out to well.
Things I learned over the past 2 days are 1)MOE doesnít easily mount to mlok, 2) when you Purchase the correct accessories install is pretty simple, 3) Iím definitely a newb, 4) you guys are awesome and thanks for the help and feedback.
I did not try to remove the handgaurd any further once I realized what I did lol.
No problem, if you need further help, just drop me a PM if you need too.

Yes moe and mlok look similiar but are different dimensions and are not compatible. Most options today are mlok, moe, keymod, and 1913 standard. I hate key mod since its like a cheese grater on your hands. Mlok is ok have a few with them. Moe is also ok have a few with them. I perfer and own the 1913. as a majority. If I need a rail, I go 1913 if I do not need rails I go with the smooth option. I do have several that have predrilled holes for rail sections. But I run mostly smooth or 1913.
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