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PC Carbine M-LOK Problem

This is a discussion on PC Carbine M-LOK Problem within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Originally Posted by SiKee You might want to consider mounting the tape switch to the forend using cable ties or a section of bicycle inner ...


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Old January 1st, 2020, 09:24 PM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiKee View Post
You might want to consider mounting the tape switch to the forend using cable ties or a section of bicycle inner tube, only. There may be no real need for a rail on top.
Yes, that would work, but the whole point of the Streamlinght setup I bought was both the tape switch and light were easily removed from their respective pieces of rail. Don’t need the extra weight during Steel Challenge or USPSA matches, but will need for night matches.



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Old January 1st, 2020, 10:55 PM   #17
 
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Never heard of that problem.
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Old January 8th, 2020, 07:21 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by bwinters View Post
Never heard of that problem.
Which problem do you mean?

The original posting about M-LOK screws pressing against the barrel?

The discussion of removable light/tape switch versus semi-permanent attachment with straps?
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Old February 11th, 2020, 08:19 AM   #19
 
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So this has me a little worried. I just took delivery of model 19116 (Mlok non threaded barrel) with the specific intent of modding the rifle a bit for my needs. Is this a common issue? I emailed Ruger with my concern, and this was their reply:

“It is critical that the handguard is centered on the barrel, so that the M-LOK slots align with the fluting. If they are not in alignment the measurement is 3.3mm, if it is aligned the measurement is 5mm. An additional way to mount troublesome optics/accessories is to remove the handguard, affix the accessory, then attach the handguard.”
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Old February 11th, 2020, 08:44 AM   #20
 
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Yes, the solution suggested by Ruger is what I would do. Measure the clearance to the barrel top from the top of the hand guard. Remove the hand guard and check the screws on your M-LOK accessory to make sure they are not too long for that amount of clearance. If they are, you will need to file them down.

Even if you have to shorten the screws a little, you will still probably be able to mount the accessory to the rail with the accessory off. But if you want to attach and remove accessories repeatedly, this process might be a bit awkward.
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Old February 11th, 2020, 01:13 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by pblanc View Post
Yes, the solution suggested by Ruger is what I would do. Measure the clearance to the barrel top from the top of the hand guard. Remove the hand guard and check the screws on your M-LOK accessory to make sure they are not too long for that amount of clearance. If they are, you will need to file them down.

Even if you have to shorten the screws a little, you will still probably be able to mount the accessory to the rail with the accessory off. But if you want to attach and remove accessories repeatedly, this process might be a bit awkward.
This is gonna sound silly, but what’s the best way to file down screws?

Also, how close is too close to the barrel? Is “not touching” enough, or should there be more space to allow for movement?

Thanks for bearing with me.
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Old February 11th, 2020, 04:26 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by Leverfun View Post
This is gonna sound silly, but what’s the best way to file down screws?

Also, how close is too close to the barrel? Is “not touching” enough, or should there be more space to allow for movement?

Thanks for bearing with me.
Well, I have shortened quite a few machine screws. Unless you have a die that matches the machine screw, use an appropriately sized nut or use the M-LOK locking lug and screw it onto the machine screw as far as it will go. After shortening the screw, you can use that nut to clean the threads by unscrewing it.

I usually use a bench grinder to speed up the process, but with a small screw it is easy to loose control of it. A file is probably safer, although slower. You probably want to put a short bevel on the end of the shortened screw to facilitate threading it into the locking lug.

I would think that a half millimeter or so of barrel clearance for the installed screw would be sufficient. You don't want it to bear right on the barrel as it may affect barrel harmonics in an adverse fashion.
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Old March 17th, 2020, 09:54 PM   #23
 
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Just finished my solution. Used a special cutting wheel on my Dremel to cut the original M-LOK screws about 2 threads shorter. Put a steel nut on first, held the screw by the nut and cut with the Dremel wheel. Took 5-10 minutes. Then turned the nut down a little to expose the cut, filed off any burrs. Then took the nut off to clean up the threads. Reinstalled the M-LOK rail, tape switch and flashlight. The ends of the screws are now flush with the surface of the locking lugs and well clear of the barrel. Should be good to go.
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