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10/22 modifications for accuracy,etc...

50K views 55 replies 23 participants last post by  Harley Viet Nam Vet 
#1 ·
What are some of the more popular modifications for the 10/22 for accuracy,etc? I've seen mention of aftermarket parts,but just how many "good" parts are there that actually enhance the rifle for accuracy and ease of use?
I'm sure some things are for the "bling" factor,or other non-useful purposes,and I'm not really interested in those-I'm looking for functionality.
JL
 
#32 ·
Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys.

I took out the platform and all five bolts. This was the platform, a set-up with just about every possible piece of "bling" on it, just because I know how much you guys love the overmodified 10/22. :D




2008 Receiver, polished out
Tiger Striped Maple FingerGroove in Kandy Green
17" GM SS Heavy Taper
Kid Trigger at 3/6
Kid Trigger pin Kit
Kid Buffer
RT Adj. V-Block
Pillar bedded

I will say this though, it is a proven set-up, and on a good day will shoot some pretty nice (and very consistant) groups in the .100"~.130" range at 25 yds with Wolf MT ammo. On a very good day it can shoot an occasional .0xx group if the nut behind the trigger is in the right spot. I also took some feeler gauges to get an idea of what sort of face depths were producing what kind of groups. The rifle was running good at about 23in./lbs, and it was a great day to shoot, almost no breeze, a light cloud cover and about 95 degrees. I shot all targets using an AVG. method of four five shot groups, with four measuring holes to get average bullet diameter for CTC measuring.

The modded bolt was already in the rifle, so I figured I may as well go ahead and see what it would do. It gave me a nice set of groups, averaging in at about .126" CTC. Face Depth (FD) on this bolt is just what is advertised by the guy I had do it, .0425.

Did a tear down, and put my oldest bolt, a 1988 in. Re-assembled, and shot another page of targets. Hmm. Shot a .129" Avg. with the unmodded bolt. Did however have one FTF. FD was .0429. More on the FTF later.

Went ahead and tore it down again, put in my newest bolt, a 2008 unit off of my latest build. Shot a pretty dismall .326" group!! What the heck!?!? Shot four pages of targets with it and my best page average was a .265" four groups average of five shots each. FD was .0510. Need-less to say, this one has already been packed up and shipped out for a tuning.

I went ahead and put in bolt number four. It is out of a '97 WWS. Group AVG. was .174" and the bolt had a FD of .0433. Not bad performance.

Bolt #5 got taken for the ride to the range, but not used. I ran out of Wolf, and wanted the test to be 100% comparitive, so didn't bother.

Re-cap:
Place------Year---FD---Group Size---Modifications
1--------???----.0425----.126"------Pinned Firing Pin, Radiused, Milled, VQ Extractor, Re-profiled Firing Pin, Engine Turned
2-------1988---.0429----.129"------Radiused, VQ extractor
3-------1997---.0433----.174"------Radiused
4-------2008---.0510----.265"------Bone Stock (but not for long)

It looks like the "worked over" bolt is indeed a slight bit better than my next best bolt. Another very interesting thing that I noted was that the newer that the bolts got that I was using, the more "slop" they had in them, and the worse they shot.

On the FTF, I hit it three times, as it wouldn't extract either due to the "Bentz" chamber on this barrel. After it fired on number three, (off target) I checked the casing, and noticed that it had strike marks all over the place. The first was too high and just "nicked" the rim, the second barely got the edge of the rim again (but a little bit over), and the third was a nice 90% on the casing strike. Many people laugh about pining the firing pin on a rimfire, but now I am getting some new bits to pin the others that I am not going to be sending out to be re-worked.

Was the re-worked bolt however "worth" the extra money? I'm going to say yes, not because of the accuracy though. I like the way it looks, the cycling is so buttery (even in this new receiver), and the pinned and re-profiled firing pin all for $55 round trip is such a deal to me that I am already sending another one out to have it done (#4 from above). Is it necessary? Probably not, I am thinking that the biggest fault in the 10/22 is still the chamber.

FWIW

JJ
 
#34 ·
jjfunk, Considering you tested at 25 yards and I tested at 50 yards, the groups size and conclusions were pretty much the same. I had a hard time measuring accurately to 2 decimals .... how in the world could you get 3-digit accuracy on group size?

Your .510 bolt is way out of spec. I'm surprised you don't get a lot of misfires and extraction problems. In this case, I would have the bolt milled down. The other headspace results are pretty much splitting hairs. Next time, your groups may favor the wider headspace by a tad.

I will modify the statement in my previous post by saying ... if headspace is .007" to .013" (.010" +or- .003") or .042" to .048" Face depth, don't waste your money on having it milled. If headspace is grossly out of spec (.015" or more HS; FD of .050" or more) then it would be to your advantage to mill the bolt face to an optimum depth.
 
#48 ·
my Ruger 10/22 carbine was the first gun I ever bought... yes I got a extended magazine release and the auto bolt release, and have the improved buffer. i know that these don't effect accuracy. but i do enjoy the features (especially the bolt release) lot easier for some one with big hands and fingers. and the improved buffer does make the action quieter. so with that said. the next admission I have is I bought a power custom target hammer which got the trigger pull down to 2.75 lbs. (special note here: I bought these add-ons / features so I would not alter the original parts and the process would be reversible if needed.

this rifle has never had stellar accuracy since i got it, we normally plink around with it(shoot steel chicken silhouettes, pop can, water bottles, etc.) normally 50 yards sometimes 25 yards.

my first thoughts of accuracy was that I thought was the trigger pull was so strong that I was pulling the rifle off target. and I think hammer and trigger kit helped out some. I did the barrel free float thing (helped a little) still shooting 3/4" to 1 1/2" or so groups. so the quest for used Numrich bull barrel (another learning experience).

well now I think i will buy a new one with a warranty against defects more than likely a green mountain (granted I can find all sorts of RE Shaw ones around at a really good price) i bought a Hogue Over Molded stock (they don't seem to have vary good reviews after i ordered it i guess the forearms flex quite a bit when using bi pod and it suppose to change the POI.

I have had a lot of rounds stove pipe, some time some debris fly out of the action when I shoot the cheap ammo in it. could it possible have to much head space and should I have it checked.
 
#35 ·
Hey Iowegan,

I'm using my digital calipers on a light table at work. One of the reasons that I didn't post up on Sunday when I went shooting was because I wanted to get good measurements on Monday at the office.

I agree that on the next outing that results could easily favor one of the unmilled bolts though, and think that this particular procedure is just like you said, and only truely beneficial when the OEM part is grossly out of spec. Just thought it might be an interesting set of results though. I will say this, my best group ever, a .081" five shot group, was shot using an unmodified bolt, but with a tighter than Bentz chamber.

FWIW

JJ
 
#37 ·
Philly,

It is a "Tuck" job. It is a duplicator carved Finger-groove model in tiger striped maple, that has been candied green and then has three or four coats of automotive clear over it. He does very nice work.

Another thing about this same topic, that I don't think was mentioned in this thread, is Torque values. I have some interesting shooters, but on any given day, and ammunition dependently, their takedown torque values will need to be adjusted in order to get the best accuracy out of them.

Here is what I am talking about:

The Rifle:


The "Tuning" targets:


And the best target of the day with that ammunition:


This rifle can do much better, but I was using the Remington Sub-Sonics, as part of an online match that I was shooting had pretty strict ammunition criteria, and this is what I found was doing OK for me. These are five shot groups at 25 yds again. As you can see from the picture with multiple targets on it, the rifle had immediate performance changes when the torque value of the takedown screw was changed.

FWIW

JJ
 
#41 ·
not to bring something back from the dead, but i was about to purchase a bolt buffer when i came across this thread.

so is a poly bolt buffer pretty much just gun bling? looks good (or in this case sounds good) but doesn't do jack? or has the opinions changed over the last year? b/c i rather save that money spent on a potentially useless mod for ammo.
 
#44 ·
This a good thread for any fan of the 10/22. For me, barrel and trigger job were the best mods. I have ordered a poly bolt buffer, because I don't like the metallic clack.

Dittos on whomever mentioned the Federal lead ammo. Mine likes that, too. Hollowpoints don't make much of a difference in smack-down because of the limited velocity. I bought a device that allows me to file maybe an 1/8 to 3/16 off the tip of the lead bullet. This results in a meplat on the bullet tip that significantly increases the smack-down power of the bullet. The increased velocity due to the lightening of the bullet probably helps a bit, too. Forgot who makes it, but it's SDM, or something like that. If I can find the manufacturer, I'll post it.
 
#47 ·
First time I've ever seen that device. Do you have a link for more information. My first impression is that it won't do much to improve accuracy but who can blame somebody if they want to improve on Rugers SINGLE action screw.

In my opinion, a good barrel will do more for accuracy than any two mods put together. My second choice is always a good trigger job.
 
#50 · (Edited)
dano440, Just a few comments .... First, factory 10/22 Carbines have never been known for stellar accuracy. I have seen a few that were very accurate but most won't group as tight as yours.

Not to worry about your Hogue stock. Once you get a bull barrel (.920") on the gun, there won't be any flex, even with a bi-pod. Free floating a 10/22 barrel does very little if anything for accuracy. The reason for free floating is to control barrel harmonics and prevent the barrel from pushing off the stock when it gets hot. 22 LR ammo isn't powerful enough to generate much harmonics in such a short barrel and the heat generated doesn't even come close to what centerfire rifles generate. Again, once you get a decent bull barrel on the gun, heat and harmonics will both be non-issues.

The best money you can spend on a 10/22 is a Power Custom or Volquartsen aftermarket extractor. Here's the link: Volquartsen; Exact Edge, Brownell’s P/N 930-000-010 or Power Custom’s Sharp Claw; Brownell’s P/N 713-000-067. One thing about match grade barrels ... they have tight chambers so if you are already experiencing extraction problems, likely they will be worse with a tight chambered barrel.

Yes, checking your headspace may be a good idea. At this point, your accuracy and extraction issues have more to do with the factory barrel and extractor than headspace but it's not a bad idea to check it.

Edited to add: Since this thread started over 2 years ago, I have replaced about a dozen factory barrels and stocks. I have used only Green mountain barrels but have used a variety of stocks. I have had excellent results with all of them. As a matter of routine, I have repaced the factory extractors with Exact Edge extractors and have milled the bolt faces to .045" (.010" actual headspace) in all the replacements. The only gun I did a "before and after bolt face milling" accuracy test was my own 10/22 and it showed a very slight accuracy improvement but headspace wasn't off much. I suspect if headspace was way out of spec, you would see more improvement. All the 10/22s I did were very accurate and functioned nearly flawless. I contribute much of that functional improvement on the new extractor and headspace adjustment.

Here's my 10/22 that started as a standard Carbine. Fajen stock, Night Eater 3~10x scope, Green Mountain .920"/ 21" barrel, extended mag release, modified auto bolt latch, headspace adjusted bolt, trigger job, and enhanced extractor. This rifle shoots some amazing groups and functions flawless with CCI Mini-Mags.

 
#51 · (Edited)
dano440, Just a few comments .... First, factory 10/22 Carbines have never been known for stellar accuracy. I have seen a few that were very accurate but most won't group as tight as yours.

Not to worry about your Hogue stock. Once you get a bull barrel (.920") on the gun, there won't be any flex, even with a bi-pod. Free floating a 10/22 barrel does very little if anything for accuracy. The reason for free floating is to control barrel harmonics and prevent the barrel from pushing off the stock when it gets hot. 22 LR ammo isn't powerful enough to generate much harmonics in such a short barrel and the heat generated doesn't even come close to what centerfire rifles generate. Again, once you get a decent bull barrel on the gun, heat and harmonics will both be non-issues.

The best money you can spend on a 10/22 is a Power Custom or Volquartsen aftermarket extractor. Here's the link: Volquartsen; Exact Edge, Brownell’s P/N 930-000-010 or Power Custom’s Sharp Claw; Brownell’s P/N 713-000-067. One thing about match grade barrels ... they have tight chambers so if you are already experiencing extraction problems, likely they will be worse with a tight chambered barrel.

Yes, checking your headspace may be a good idea. At this point, your accuracy and extraction issues have more to do with the factory barrel and extractor than headspace but it's not a bad idea to check it.

Edited to add: Since this thread started over 2 years ago, I have replaced about a dozen factory barrels and stocks. I have used only Green mountain barrels but have used a variety of stocks. I have had excellent results with all of them. As a matter of routine, I have repaced the factory extractors with Exact Edge extractors and have milled the bolt faces to .045" (.010" actual headspace) in all the replacements. The only gun I did a "before and after bolt face milling" accuracy test was my own 10/22 and it showed a very slight accuracy improvement but headspace wasn't off much. I suspect if headspace was way out of spec, you would see more improvement. All the 10/22s I did were very accurate and functioned nearly flawless. I contribute much of that functional improvement on the new extractor and headspace adjustment.

Here's my 10/22 that started as a standard Carbine. Fajen stock, Night Eater 3~10x scope, Green Mountain .920"/ 21" barrel, extended mag release, modified auto bolt latch, headspace adjusted bolt, trigger job, and enhanced extractor. This rifle shoots some amazing groups and functions flawless with CCI Mini-Mags.
well over the weekend have check my bolt and found just a little unevenness a little polishing squared it up. the final check .045" I think part of my inaccuracies were found in my Numrich bull barrel. I slugged the barrel and found a loose spot about 3" from the muzzle and the muzzle was not square. may be not the best solution I took a chance in a salvage operation I turned the barrel around and re-chambered it so that the loose end was closer to the chamber now and then re-cut a new muzzle on the old chamber end. I had nothing to lose except for the length of the chamber. going to take it out in the morning to see how it does.

as far as the rest of the rifle trigger and hammer have been done, played with bolt buffer, auto bolt release, and the extended mag release. I have about 2 and 3/4 pound trigger pull. and tried about 8 different types of ammo, I think where I messed up was the le cheapo bull barrel. so as the funds recharge I think I try and get a Green Mountain barrel. and I think I will call it good enough.

I just got to get over the fact its never going to catch up with my Savage Mark II FTV bolt action.
 
#52 ·
I think what we are seeing here is that most mods have some capability of improving accuracy, but some are dependent on the gun being able to benefit from the modification.

Obviously some mods are purely convenience, like the bolt release or mag release mods. Still, that can make the shooter more comfortable, one of those "touchy-feely" benefits. If a bolt buffer quieting the action down lowers the flinch factor for a shooter, it is a cheap accuracy improvement.

Bolt mods and extractor mods will improve function IF you are having problems with stock pieces, and can improve accuracy. But without a gun being properly equipped to realize that accuracy improvement, you won't see any real change. The interesting thing to see would be what order mods should proceed in to keep tuning in the accuracy. I would think the barrel or trigger work would be pretty high on the list, bedding/pressure pad/torque tuning pretty high up, etc.......a list giving the most fruitful order of mods would be very useful. A perfectly modded bolt is likely useless in a shot out barrel in a loose stock with a gritty trigger.
 
#54 ·
And also which barrel would you guys prefer the green mountain or the ER shaw.
Neither actually. I go with Whistle Pig preferably. Have an ER Shaw and a few GM's too. All kinda depends on how much you wanna spend and what results you're looking for. There's more to it than just dropping in a bbl and calling it good if you want some real good performance. For basic range, semi-formal target stuff, either the GM or ER Shaw will be fine. Having the choice, I'd probably go with GM just 'cause their customer service is fantastic and they're close enough to drive to.
 
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