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10/22 Rubber buffer caution

This is a discussion on 10/22 Rubber buffer caution within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I installed a Rubber bolt buffer on a 10/22 and it resulted in many jams and poor accuracy. I switched back to the factory part ...


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Old January 11th, 2020, 02:00 PM   #1
 
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10/22 Rubber buffer caution

I installed a Rubber bolt buffer on a 10/22 and it resulted in many jams and poor accuracy. I switched back to the factory part and had only one jam and the accuracy improved. I did a little research and found mixed reports on rubber buffers, some people had similar problems and others loved them. Its a cheap enough part to try out at about $6 to see if it works but I was not impressed. IF you mod a 10/22 and try one of these at the same time with other mods and have problems, change this part back to factory before doing anything else. I mentioned this issue in another post about changing my barrel but though it would also be good to mention as a separate thread.



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Old January 11th, 2020, 02:08 PM   #2
 
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It's a good heads up NV. So many gizmos nowdays.
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Old January 11th, 2020, 02:30 PM   #3
 
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It's a good heads up NV. So many gizmos nowdays.
And so many gizmo's that don't work well ... unlike the ad hype !
Thanks for the real world report NVcaster .
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Old January 11th, 2020, 02:52 PM   #4
 
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Only modify one thing at a time - an important consideration when tinkering on your firearms. Change one thing, then verify results!
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Old January 12th, 2020, 10:15 AM   #5
 
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i buy delrin 150 rod and cut my own buffers - get about 9 per foot... i only use them for two reasons:

1. the factory buffers falls out of the receiver and rolls off the table (the delrin needs a tap out and in)

and

2. 10/22 and Chargers sound quieter when running with a suppressor

non-metal buffers aren't recommended by 10/22 'experts' (if there is such a designation)... see Walt Kuleck, on pg. 39 of his 'The Ruger 10/22 Complete Owner's and Assembly Guide (sold by Ruger):

quote:

For those who believe a resilient bolt stop pin would be useful, after reading this excerpt from Harry's patent you may become disinterested in replacing the standard metal pin with a different material..

endquote

(patent description digresses, but basically says that resiliency is not a good thing, and that the metal buffer eliminates 'bounce effect,' and allows the bolt to return under influence of the 'return' spring, which slows down the cycling time and increases feed reliability due to giving the magazine time to 'position the next cartridge for insertion into the firing chamber')

so if you're having trouble using a 'gummy' bolt buffer, find a 'less-resilient' material...

Delrin seems to work for me for my reasons, and my Rugers eat anything... (except malformed rimfire of course)

:-)

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Old January 12th, 2020, 10:33 AM   #6
 
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Rubber 10-22 buffers trouble

First post,new member here.
I have had great luck using 1/4 inch (solid)Teflon bolts (cut threads and bolt head off) then trim to factory length)to replace steel original.
Iíve had zero problems and the rifle cycles quietly (more) now.
Hope it helps
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Old January 12th, 2020, 10:42 AM   #7
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Ruger started making 10/22s in 1964 and since then, millions have been shipped WITHOUT A BOLT BUFFER. Besides NOT being necessary, they often result in functional problems. I have four 10/22s and none of them have a bolt buffer and never will.
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Old January 12th, 2020, 11:54 AM   #8
 
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Going to jump in - there are MANY different bolt stop 'buffers'. As I'm reading it, the OP is advising folks to avoid the one that is rubber covering steel. That makes sense to me. Any time you have a coating on something metal (rubber in this case) the 'coating' will either wear through or come off and that'll screw up functioning.

Now let's talk about the factory 10/22. You have an ALUMINUM receiver. You have a STEEL pin going across the back of the action to stop the rearward travel of the STEEL bolt flying rearward, at high speed, from the discharge of a .22LR cartridge. The STEEL bolt hits the STEEL pin and the energy gets transferred to the ALUMINUM receiver. 500 rounds? No problem. 1000 rounds? No problem. But my gun has to be in the 10s of thousands of rounds by now and it is elongating the hole in the aluminum receiver.

The 'fix'? A DELRIN or POLYURETHANE-type bolt stop in place of the STEEL factory unit. It helps absorb some of the shock and 'cushions' enough under compression to spare the aluminum receiver further damage. It doesn't harm the functioning of the gun. The bolt is still sent forward 'vigorously' by the charging handle spring.

I'm generally a fan of leaving what the factory has done 'as is'. But having LIVED this particular problem, replacing that bolt stop pin sooner rather than later will spare your aluminum receiver from ANY damage, whereas running the steel OEM pin for too long WILL allow your aluminum to get 'peened' and the hole to elongate. Granted, it might take 10,000 rounds, but when do you plan to STOP shooting your 10/22? (Never, right?! So the round count WILL add up over time.)

Also, when you get over the 5,000 round mark, you should REPLACE the charging handle/spring assembly with a fresh, new one. Springs lose tension with use and heat. After 5000 rounds, it's a good time to give the gun a 'fresh' spring. That also helps slow the 'battering' of the bolt stop pin hole.
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Old January 12th, 2020, 05:04 PM   #9
 
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I have one in mine and it simply makes it slightly quieter mechanically. They do wear out and need replacing. They also make nylon ones as well, like all upgrades for 1022 every rifle is different and reacts differently. The good thing is that there is almost always something that makes your rifle easier to use, function more reliably or just look cool.
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Old January 12th, 2020, 06:25 PM   #10
 
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I have installed one in my 10-.22 mag. You can tell the difference in the tungsten bolt to hitting the steel pin. Hopefully it will make the bolt last.
IN 10-.22 you can really hear the bolt smacking the snot out of that steel pin with the vh or uhv ammo like the30 grain Aquilla. A stronger recoil spring sees in order but haven't fund one. It may be Delrin that I installed in the mag. It was from Volksh---.
I'm going to tr one in the 10-.22. I haven't fired a lot rounds in the magnum but the polymer pin looks just like when I installed it. The slightly oversize take down pins helped quieten down the mag as well as eliminate a real loose fit. I have just a git of looseness in the 10.22. I doubt oversize pins would fit without some reaming.
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Old January 12th, 2020, 09:05 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frog4aday View Post
Going to jump in - there are MANY different bolt stop 'buffers'. As I'm reading it, the OP is advising folks to avoid the one that is rubber covering steel. That makes sense to me. Any time you have a coating on something metal (rubber in this case) the 'coating' will either wear through or come off and that'll screw up functioning.

Now let's talk about the factory 10/22. You have an ALUMINUM receiver. You have a STEEL pin going across the back of the action to stop the rearward travel of the STEEL bolt flying rearward, at high speed, from the discharge of a .22LR cartridge. The STEEL bolt hits the STEEL pin and the energy gets transferred to the ALUMINUM receiver. 500 rounds? No problem. 1000 rounds? No problem. But my gun has to be in the 10s of thousands of rounds by now and it is elongating the hole in the aluminum receiver.

The 'fix'? A DELRIN or POLYURETHANE-type bolt stop in place of the STEEL factory unit. It helps absorb some of the shock and 'cushions' enough under compression to spare the aluminum receiver further damage. It doesn't harm the functioning of the gun. The bolt is still sent forward 'vigorously' by the charging handle spring.

I'm generally a fan of leaving what the factory has done 'as is'. But having LIVED this particular problem, replacing that bolt stop pin sooner rather than later will spare your aluminum receiver from ANY damage, whereas running the steel OEM pin for too long WILL allow your aluminum to get 'peened' and the hole to elongate. Granted, it might take 10,000 rounds, but when do you plan to STOP shooting your 10/22? (Never, right?! So the round count WILL add up over time.)

Also, when you get over the 5,000 round mark, you should REPLACE the charging handle/spring assembly with a fresh, new one. Springs lose tension with use and heat. After 5000 rounds, it's a good time to give the gun a 'fresh' spring. That also helps slow the 'battering' of the bolt stop pin hole.
I see nothing about rubber over steel bolt buffer in OP post! All I see is OP stating stay away from rubber bolt buffer.

I have built well over 20 10/22's and everyone of them have the KIDD bolt buffer, which is the rubber over steel. Some of those 10/22's have well over 10,000 rounds threw them and the KIDD buffer is still holding strong!

So I call BS and raise the BS flag on the above statement that they wear out and will cause problems!!!
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Old January 15th, 2020, 03:42 PM   #12
 
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Old January 16th, 2020, 09:17 AM   #13
 
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While I can see that a rubber buffer *might* have some effect on feeding a next round in SOME rifles, I donít understand how a rubber buffer can affect accuracy. Isnít the bullet actually out of the barrel before the bolt hits the buffer?
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Old January 16th, 2020, 04:03 PM   #14
 
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I think I'm going give you a thank you...... after a few more shots......LOL!

My 10/22 had always had a problem clearing/ejecting Federal Auto Match. I had been playing around with recoil springs and had changed out the extractor for an aftermarket part. CCI's always did well but I never could quite get get the problem to go away using Auto Match.

After reading this thread I realized that I had changed out the buffer to a solid "plastic" aftermarket part. I had never considered that it might be a source of the issue. I took it out and put the factory metal one in along with a standard weight recoil spring. Much, much better. I want to shoot it a little more but I'm thinking there was an improvement. I did run some CCI's though it and they did well so nothing changed there.

Someday I'll learn to leave well enough alone......
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Old January 18th, 2020, 01:24 PM   #15
 
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The one I put in was the Kidd with a small diameter steel pin covered with Rubber. My goal was to quiet the action down a bit and to see if it made any improvements. I think on my rifle the buffer dampened the rebound of the bolt enough that it wasn't quite functioning 100 percent. My guess the bolt was not getting back into to solid battery against the barrel which would reduce accuracy and cause jams.

I am not against using buffers, I like the idea of cushioning metal against metal, I just wanted to let others know about my experience and that they may cause a problem. If you try one and the rifle has problems replace it with original. I may try the buffer again if I ever swap recall springs. For now it works great with good accuracy so I am not going to change anything in the near future.
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