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10/22 Rubber buffer caution

This is a discussion on 10/22 Rubber buffer caution within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I installed a bolt buffer in mine and have well over 10,000 rounds through it and never had an issue that was buffer related....


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Old January 19th, 2020, 03:31 PM   #16
 
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I installed a bolt buffer in mine and have well over 10,000 rounds through it and never had an issue that was buffer related.



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Old February 13th, 2020, 09:08 AM   #17
 
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Cool i use delrin

buffer...so far, so good...

they're easy enough, and affordable, to replace regularly if you're concerned.
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Old February 13th, 2020, 04:41 PM   #18
 
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I have original, rubber and nylon rod in deferent guns, the only difference was noise when rubber quietest nylon second metal noisiest, it made no other difference as far as I can tell.
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Old February 16th, 2020, 09:24 AM   #19
 
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Now I have installed a KIDD extended bolt handle because I kept hitting the turret on my scope with my knuckle with the factory handle. At the same time I swapped out the spring and guide rod and ended up running the 10 percent lower power spring for good function. I then reinstalled the rubber buffer and now it works like a champ. My rifle just didn't like the factory spring set up and the buffer together. Stay tuned for accuracy testing, it seems to be good offhand but was not able to print on paper as I ran out of time.
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Old February 16th, 2020, 11:52 AM   #20
 
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I can see how having a softer buffer instead of the steel bolt stop pin might alter the cyclic rate a tad. That could be good or bad.

I had one 10/22 with the stock recoil spring/charging handle assembly that choked on Federal Auto-Match regularly that did much better with the same ammo after I swapped the steel pin for a Tuffer Buffer.

Certainly, if you have issues after installing a buffer it is worth the time and trouble to swap the steel pin back and see if things improve. But I doubt very much that installing a buffer will create troubles on a regular basis.
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Old March 14th, 2020, 06:28 PM   #21
 
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I posted about my broken factory bolt stop pin (https://rugerforum.net/ruger-10-22-r...-stop-pin.html) before I read this post! I have a rubber buffer installed now but have not tested it yet. If my accuracy drops off or feeding trouble develops, I know where I should start. Problem is, I may have to order a new steel pin to be back where I started from. Interesting work, figuring out and anticipating problems where none may exist lol.
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Old March 14th, 2020, 06:44 PM   #22
 
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Get 1/4 air line and stiff wire that fits into the tubing.


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Old March 14th, 2020, 07:18 PM   #23
 
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I have not tried a soft buffer in any of my 10/22s. I think that if rubber or plastic was best that Ruger would use rubber or plastic, especially since it would be cheaper than steel.
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Old March 15th, 2020, 05:46 AM   #24
 
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I run non metal buffers to reduce mechanical noise. Kidd guide rod and springs are great much smoother. It is a minor adjustment in assembly and disassembly with the non captive spring. The great thing about the 10/22 is you can have it your way.

Best $10 you can spend on your 10/22 WARNING can be expensive to develop a Kidd habit
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Gui...-Kit_p_30.html

Last edited by stevebla; March 15th, 2020 at 05:54 AM.
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Old March 15th, 2020, 10:06 AM   #25
 
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I run a nylon one in mine, I like how it’s quieter with my suppressor. No issues, and nice and quiet when using CCI suppressor ammo. Very accurate in mine too.
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Old March 15th, 2020, 10:29 AM   #26
 
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Thousands of Ruger 10/22 owners use some variety of synthetic bolt buffers in their rifles. Reports of them causing problems are exceedingly rare
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Old March 15th, 2020, 11:23 AM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pblanc View Post
Thousands of Ruger 10/22 owners use some variety of synthetic bolt buffers in their rifles. Reports of them causing problems are exceedingly rare


100% correct


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Old March 23rd, 2020, 07:53 PM   #28
 
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I put a Volks a hard son urethane buffer in the 10.22 magnum and it is finer than frogs fur..
Taint got roundtoit on the 10-.22 yet. Hd to put a bit of lube and push it in though. The factory one just fell out.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 07:16 PM   #29
 
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I'll try to avoid a wall of text here (but it looks like I've failed)...

According to the Ruger patent regarding the shape of the cutout at the rear of the bolt where it contacts the buffer, it is designed so that the bolt initially contacts the buffer moving to the rear, then cams downward a very short distance. By doing that, in the final milli- (perhaps micro-) seconds after the initial rearward impact, the impact forces are redirected downward.

Now for my thoughts... Since the bolt cams downward slightly, rubbing against the buffer for a short distance, I'd think that a tackier surface (as is found on some of the aftermarket buffers) could affect the bolt travel in some way, leading to feeding or accuracy issues, as well as possible degradation of the buffer surface. That said, I am running home-made nylon buffers in my 10-22s with great success - they present a smooth, self-lubricating surface to the bolt. (3" nylon bolts from my local Ace Hardware have a long enough shank to cut down & use.)

Next thought is the difference in the bolt cutout between the Ruger factory bolt and an aftermarket bolt that I recently bought. The aftermarket bolt has a straight cylindrical cut, rather than the slightly vertically elongated profile on the Ruger bolt. (I wouldn't be surprised if this is due to the patent still being in effect.) As a result, the aftermarket bolt just slams straight back against the buffer, instead of the force pattern caused by the camming action at the very end of the Ruger bolt travel. I sort of wonder if this would be an argument in favor of a (relatively) softer buffer material when using bolts with the straight cylindrical cutout; this leads into the discussion of "how soft" and "what material" - I'm not going down that path, though. (Also, I have knowledge of only the one aftermarket bolt I have; pictures of others I've seem seem to show a cylindrical cut as well, but not in enough detail to be certain.)

Last thought is that the Ruger cutout profile might grant a couple of microseconds' pause at the end of the bolt travel, letting it stabilize before the spring pushes it back forward. The cylindrical cutout would seem to be more susceptible to bouncing off the buffer; to preclude this, a buffer which absorbs the shock of the bolt impact could work better than the factory steel buffer, so long as it's neither too hard nor too soft. (This goes along with the theory in thought #2 above)

Then again, I could be overthinking all of this.

Last edited by ColoradoExpat; March 26th, 2020 at 09:19 AM.
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