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Moderate upgrades on 10/22

This is a discussion on Moderate upgrades on 10/22 within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; pblanc, if I don't like how it shoots after I get the mods I have for it now done, I may end up getting someone ...


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Old December 25th, 2019, 06:05 PM   #16
 
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pblanc, if I don't like how it shoots after I get the mods I have for it now done, I may end up getting someone like CPC to work on it. Maybe I can figure out a way to open up the stock so I can put a semi-bull or sporter barrel in it. I never really looked into how to swap a barrel on these and now that I know it is super simple and pretty much idiot prrof I want to build one all the more. I think I can get a brand new base model for like $219, or get a used one for around $179 and maybe use one of those for a more complete build.

I really like the Magpul Backpacker takedown stock, even though I like my wood stock on my takedown, the magpul would make it A LOT easier to mod that one it I so choose later on

I have to say, so far I am really happy with this forum. Not too many people talking down to others, and a lot of good ideas.

Please, keep coming with the ideas! I love reading them.



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Old December 25th, 2019, 06:56 PM   #17
 
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You have the right idea....do it yourself!

A trigger job is very simple to do and there are a TON of video out there on how to do it. I can usually do a full 2.5-3.5LB trigger job in about 30 minutes including disassembly and reassembly.

If you have a belt sander and sandpaper, you can polish and radius your bolt yourself.

As far as your barrel, I actually work with a 30+ yr gunsmith part time and have a Lathe at my house. So recrowning and threading a barrel is easy work for me. You on the other hand may be stuck with buying an aftermarket barrel.

Good luck and enjoy it, even in stock form they are GREAT rifles!!!
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Old December 26th, 2019, 10:41 AM   #18
 
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If you want an aftermarket barrel that won't change the looks of your rifle too much (except for the lack of a front sight) look into a heavy taper barrel such as offered by Fred Feddersen, who makes a blued, 17" heavy taper barrel, or Green Mountain ,offering a 17" and 19" heavy taper barrel in either stainless or blued.

The standard tapered Ruger carbine barrel is 18.5" long including the tenon (the part that fits into the receiver). It is .920" in diameter at its base at the receiver and tapers to just under .600" in diameter at the muzzle, not including the sight band. A bull barrel is a uniform .920" in diameter throughout.

The contours of the heavy taper barrels varies with the maker, but they start out at .920" in diameter at the receiver and taper down to somewhere around .725-.760" in diameter at the muzzle.

The heavy taper barrels improve accuracy by damping barrel harmonics by virtue of their thicker walls. Aftermarket barrels also have better barrel crowns and chambers than the Ruger stock carbine/sporter barrels which tend to have chambers that are looser and sloppier than they need to be.

Relieving a stock for a heavy taper barrel is really pretty easy. I have used deep sockets of various diameters with sandpaper wrapped around them, using a socket of a diameter that matches that of the barrel for the segment of the barrel channel I am relieving. The external appearance of the stock is really minimally altered in the case of a heavy taper barrel.

Changing the barrel on a Ruger 10/22 is usually really easy. Here is a good article that describes the process:

https://gundigest.com/reviews/custom...r1022_chapter8

You just remove the two machine screws that secure the V-block to the receiver along with the V block itself. These screws should remove easily with an Allen wrench. They only need to be tightened to 10-15 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds) to secure the barrel. Most stock barrels can be pulled right out of the receiver by hand after removing the V block.

Some aftermarket barrels are an easy slip-fit and can be inserted by hand. If the tenon can be started into the receiver pretty easily, the barrel muzzle can be placed on a soft surface to protect the crown with the barrel held vertically, and the receiver tapped onto the barrel tenon with a rubber mallet applied to the back side of the receiver.

Some barrels are intentionally made with a tenon that requires more of a press-fit. Before I would try to reduce the tenon diameter with sandpaper or emory paper as described in the article, I would put the barrel in a freezer overnight. You can also heat the stripped receiver either with a heat gun, or simply putting it in a 250 degree oven for 15-20 minutes. Many times either freezing the barrel, heating the receiver, or both will allow a tight press-fit barrel to be installed in the barrel by hand.

It is important to make sure that the extractor cut in the barrel is properly indexed with the extractor in the bolt. The V-block screws really only need to be snug and can easily be reinstalled with an Allen wrench by hand.
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Old December 27th, 2019, 05:29 AM   #19
 
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You guys are awesome! So much great info!

I plan on heading to the range today or Tomorrow and getting a baseline at 50 yds at least- I only have a fixed 4x scope on it right now, plan on a 3-9x or better in the near future.

I put sling swivels in the stock today. This stock is very tight on the action which I like. My Takedown action is really loose in the stock.

Anyway, after getting the sling swivels in, I put a CCOP rail adapter on, mounted a CCOP adjustable bipod, and made a camo and black sling for it.

Here it is as it sits for now. We’ll see how it shoots then go from there. I’m really liking how it sits for now. The trigger spring kit, extended mag release, and charging handle should be in this week too so if those come in I’ll work on it more
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Old December 27th, 2019, 12:06 PM   #20
 
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Why oh why would you want to start going down the modding a 10/22 rabbit hole!?!? It will never end.....AND you'll have a blast the entire way. There's nothing you can't do yourself. Mostly because so many parts are drop in and make such a big difference, IMHO.

Took a while but I ended up with the attached. So fun to shoot, and so accurate. Dime sized groups all day at 50 yards, quarter at 100. Only thing stock is the receiver and bolt .

Enjoy the journey! You have a nice looking rifle there.
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Old December 27th, 2019, 07:24 PM   #21
 
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just got my take down 10-22 haven't got to shoot it yet. Not going to start with bunch of mods after all this is not a Carlos Hathcock sniper rifle . I will fix the bolt release problem but not much else for now. I have a couple of scopes so i will pick one to use soon.
Everybody stay safe while shooting and enjoy our sport.


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Old December 28th, 2019, 06:51 AM   #22
 
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Send your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. For about $35, you’ll get a better trigger than the BX unit, and cheaper, too. personally, I would stay away from the extended mag release. One came with my latest 10/22, and it was forever catching on any rest I happened to be using and dumping the mag. Other than that, just shoot it as is for awhile and see what you need as you go.
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Old December 28th, 2019, 07:44 AM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scattershot View Post
Send your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. For about $35, you’ll get a better trigger than the BX unit, and cheaper, too. personally, I would stay away from the extended mag release. One came with my latest 10/22, and it was forever catching on any rest I happened to be using and dumping the mag. Other than that, just shoot it as is for awhile and see what you need as you go.
I agree that Brimstone Gunsmithing does nice work on factory Ruger 10/22 trigger groups. I have had them do a Tier 3 job on one and a Tier 2 job on another. But they have raised their prices. A Tier 3 trigger job is now $45 plus a $9.95 return shipping charge. That does not include the cost of shipping the trigger group to them, which has generally cost me about $7 to send it in a small, padded envelope.

It might be worth mentioning, that installing any barrel that has a significantly greater diameter than the stock barrel (including heavy taper barrels) in a carbine stock will prevent the use of the barrel band. The barrel band is really only there for cosmetics. Some Ruger 10/22 carbine owners have found their rifles shoot more accurately with the band off, or if the top loop of the band is relieved enough that it does not touch the barrel.

But some people think the carbine stock looks funny without the band and bob the tapered end off the stock or re-contour the fore-end of the stock to get rid of the "step".
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Old December 30th, 2019, 09:04 AM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigG View Post
Why oh why would you want to start going down the modding a 10/22 rabbit hole!?!? It will never end.....AND you'll have a blast the entire way. There's nothing you can't do yourself. Mostly because so many parts are drop in and make such a big difference, IMHO.

Took a while but I ended up with the attached. So fun to shoot, and so accurate. Dime sized groups all day at 50 yards, quarter at 100. Only thing stock is the receiver and bolt .

Enjoy the journey! You have a nice looking rifle there.
As far as modding goes, I had been warned by others that once you start modding one, you can't stop... I am already thinking of plans for my Takedown model (maybe a backpacker stock, and a heavy barrel, charging handle, M Carbo spring kit, and a few other things), but I also have in my mind to buy a old used crusty 10/22 as cheap as I can and go build a budget more-complete build with better stock, heavy barrel, and as much drop in aftermarket as I can on a budget. There are so many cool upgrades.

It is good to know that I don't need the front barrel band, this stock is so tight on the action, I think it will ok to leave it. In future builds with heavy barrel, I will float the barrel and action or bed it.

I am so happy to be getting deeper into the 10/22 world, and I can see myself getting stuck in the wormhole.
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Old December 30th, 2019, 09:04 AM   #25
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scattershot View Post
Send your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. For about $35, you’ll get a better trigger than the BX unit, and cheaper, too. personally, I would stay away from the extended mag release. One came with my latest 10/22, and it was forever catching on any rest I happened to be using and dumping the mag. Other than that, just shoot it as is for awhile and see what you need as you go.
That sounds like a great service. I may look into that in the future
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Old December 30th, 2019, 11:41 AM   #26
 
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Extended magazine release levers are very much a matter of personal preference and intended use. Some who use Ruger 10/22s for hunting prefer the original button magazine release that does not extend below the rifle at all to avoid any chance of accidentally dropping the magazine.

I have tried the long levers that extend all the way back beneath the trigger guard. I don't care for them for the types of shooting I do. My favorite magazine release lever is this model by Timber Creek:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMBER-CREE...kAAOSwezVW1Jv6

Also comes in colors if you are into that sort of thing. Instead of extending straight down like the extended mag release lever that Ruger now uses on 10/22s, this one curves back and resides just in front of the trigger guard. In that position it is less likely to accidentally get pushed forward. At least that had never happened to me. Also, when shooting offhand I often prefer to have my support hand directly beneath the balance point of the rifle, which is very often right under the magazine, and this lever is more out of the way.

I shoot 10/22s in timed fire events using a sling during which magazine changes are required during stages of fire. I change magazines with my shooting hand which allows me to keep the rifle slung up and shouldered during the change. With this lever it is an easy manner to run your shooting hand thumb forward along the bottom surface of the trigger guard, then push the lever forward and let the empty magazine drop into your open hand.
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Old December 30th, 2019, 11:51 AM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pblanc View Post
Extended magazine release levers are very much a matter of personal preference and intended use. Some who use Ruger 10/22s for hunting prefer the original button magazine release that does not extend below the rifle at all to avoid any chance of accidentally dropping the magazine.

I have tried the long levers that extend all the way back beneath the trigger guard. I don't care for them for the types of shooting I do. My favorite magazine release lever is this model by Timber Creek:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMBER-CREE...kAAOSwezVW1Jv6

Also comes in colors if you are into that sort of thing. Instead of extending straight down like the extended mag release lever that Ruger now uses on 10/22s, this one curves back and resides just in front of the trigger guard. In that position it is less likely to accidentally get pushed forward. At least that had never happened to me. Also, when shooting offhand I often prefer to have my support hand directly beneath the balance point of the rifle, which is very often right under the magazine, and this lever is more out of the way.

I shoot 10/22s in timed fire events using a sling during which magazine changes are required during stages of fire. I change magazines with my shooting hand which allows me to keep the rifle slung up and shouldered during the change. With this lever it is an easy manner to run your shooting hand thumb forward along the bottom surface of the trigger guard, then push the lever forward and let the empty magazine drop into your open hand.
I bought a full length release lever to try, but I like the look of the Timber Creek ones, it is what I was going to buy originally.. Or the ruger extended ones that wrap around the front of the trigger guard.

I guess time will tell if I like the long one or not, if not, I will sell a lot of all the parts I didn't use on my builds lol.

I plan to get some dual mag connectors, I think they will be a little more useful than the tri mag adapter, and I already have two BX25 mags. They're fun, but not when bench shooting.
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Old December 30th, 2019, 01:32 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by crankymotorsports View Post
but I also have in my mind to buy a old used crusty 10/22 as cheap as I can and go build a budget more-complete build with better stock, heavy barrel, and as much drop in aftermarket as I can on a budget.
good thinking... that is how i built one of my Charger TDs... the SAP folks have various parts - mostly pull-offs - that can save you money...

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Old December 31st, 2019, 10:18 AM   #29
 
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Bolt Buffer and Auto Bolt Release to consider?
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Old January 2nd, 2020, 07:20 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by CrispyLumpia View Post
Bolt Buffer and Auto Bolt Release to consider?
Already done.
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