Newbie Hand loading questions

taters613 · Mar 2, 2020

Hi all!
So I’ve finally decided to dip my toes into the world of reloading. My primary motivation is to have fun with it and do lots of experimentation, while my secondary goal is to save money (but honestly I don’t shoot enough for this to be a big consideration). To start out, I think I’m going to be reloading the following calibers: 10mm, 9mm, 357 mag, and some 38 special.
So obviously I’ve got a lot of questions, but I’ll just throw out some of the most pertinent ones:

1) What to Buy - To get myself started, I was planning on buying a Lee Precision Value 4 hole turret kit (https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Value-Hole-Turret-90928/dp/B00162PT16), along with some dies and obviously powder, primers, bullets and all that stuff. Is this press a good way to go for a beginner who will be producing relatively low volumes (50-100 rounds a week at the most)? Or would a simpler single stage press be a better option? Anything else that I should buy?
2) Lead Free Primers - I’m a bit paranoid about lead exposure (particularly because I have a 5 year old daughter), so I’m very interested in trying to out lead free primers. However, I’ve read that these can damage a firearm by causing breach face erosion, firing pin erosion and other problems. Is this true? Does anyone have any advice regarding reloading with lead free primers?
3) Polymer Jacketed bullets - What are the pros and cons of synthetic polymer jacketed bullets? Does the polymer coating effectively encapsulate the lead so as to reduce exposure?

Anyway, in addition to answering the above questions, please feel free to offer any and all advice.
Thanks!

ngashooter · Mar 2, 2020

I have a Lee single stage and the turret press. I like and use both. Get turrets for each set of dies. I have two sets of .38/.357 dies. I have a dedicated set for each caliber since readjusting them gets tiring. You're going to need a couple of manuals for reference, a micrometer to measure with, a kinetic bullet puller to break down mistakes, a hand priming tool with shell holders, and a loading block. An inexpensive set of Lee Powder Dippers will come in handy. The perfect powder measure is consistent, but charge weights don't match the included chart many times. I have never used lead free primers or polymer coated bullets. Keep your reloading area clean. Don't let small children pick up fired cases or be around anything contaminated until they are old enough to keep their hands out of their mouths. Wash your hands immediately when you are done loading, cleaning, or shooting. No one saves money, but you shoot more. Experimenting means testing. You will soon want a chronograph. Velocities, standards of deviation, and extreme spread will become important as you develop loads. It is an enjoyable hobby. Read a lot, don't trust loads from unverified sources, avoid distractions, and double check everything. Starting with a simple setup with carbide dies for pistol cartridges is the way to go. Have fun!

ngashooter · Mar 2, 2020

I meant a dial caliper for measurements, not a micrometer.

Wrangler Rich · Mar 2, 2020

Jump on those dies that Iowegen has on the Classified.

WR

gwpercle · Mar 2, 2020

Loading Manuals
At least 3 more to go with the Lee Manual that should come with the Lee kit .
Lyman 50th Anniversary Manual
Hornady
Speer

If you plan to load cast lead , coated lead or plated bullets do get the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #4....it's a must for lead bullet loading .

Why so many books ? Way too many variables in just different calibers ,powders & bullets to be contained all in one book .
Always cross check loading data from the internet with a reliable printed book.
The first chapters of every loading manual will have a wealth of info with pictures , photo's and diagrams....Read these chapters and you will learn a lot .
Gary

brnwlms · Mar 2, 2020

Welcome to the world of reloading. Reloading is about so much more than the illusion of saving money. Ask all the questions you have and check out a thread Mark204 started that is full of random bits of knowledge from across the forum.

https://rugerforum.net/reloading/369073-dedicated-help-new-reloaders-thread.html

Mark204 · Mar 2, 2020

For starters Lee wouldn't be my first, second or third choice if I were just starting out...ask me how I know. Having owned Lee equipment in the past and switching gives me a better perspective than someone who has only owned Lee their entire life. Keep in mind you get what pay for and I'd try to buy a package which I didn't have add much to it. Some of the cheaper package deals look great until you start to add the extras to get you behind the press. Most, if not all seasoned reloaders will advise against anyone new jumping into the game with anything that remotely looks like a progressive. Starting out, (and based on the low amount ammo you plan for) a single stage press is the way to go. Reloading isn't rocket science but it is/can be very dangerous, until you get your feet on the ground you want it to be as simple as possible, a single stage press will help keep it simple.

Personally my concern for lead is not centered around the primer, it's the handling of lead cast bullets so I use surgical gloves. Another major concern for people should be the lead dust that's ingested at the range, especially an indoor range. Inhaling lead dust is far more dangerous than handling primers or cast bullets.

As far as saving money.......that's a joke, but you will shoot more for the same price.

rainmaker · Mar 2, 2020

What Mark204 and the others have said, and for sure see the aforementioned thread.

In my experience (going back to the Lee Classic "whack-a-mole" loader 40 some years ago) reloading can be a fun and worthwhile part of the shooting experience. I admit to using a Lee single stage and dies, but as Mark said there are other options out there. I second the recommendation that you start with a single stage press. I will recommend that you look at the RCBS Universal hand priming tool - no extra shell holders to buy and it's a good and safe tool, and works with multiple calibers. Also look at a small digital scale (if not already part of your kit) to weigh check your powder charges.

Enjoy.

DrHenley · Mar 2, 2020

I am an admin on a reloading site.

Stay away from the Lee aluminum presses. Stay far away. I have two Lee's that are either broken or worn out. See image below...
The Lee Classic Cast, however, is a great press. As mentioned by others, your first press should be a GOOD single stage. Don't try to do progressive until you understand all the operations.

Buy at least three reloading manuals, two of them being the Lee and Lyman, and read all the sections on how to reload.

Get loading blocks and concentrate on one operation at at time at first. Visually inspect all the cases after priming, and after charging with powder.

Start with mild loads. Don't even try to get within 5% of max loads until you have developed some successful (accurate) mild loads.

GO SLOW. Don't get distracted. Check and recheck powder scales. If you have electronic scales use the check weights every time you turn it on. But I recommend using good balance beam scales instead of electronic.

Iowegan · Mar 2, 2020

Mark204,

Most, if not all seasoned reloaders will advise against anyone new jumping into the game with anything that remotely looks like a progressive.

Although I agree with your statement when it comes to $$$, I don't agree when it comes to function. When comments like this are made, you are basically calling people inept or stupid.

When I had my shop in Arizona, I taught classes to people new to reloading and used my RCBS Rockchucker and Dillon RL550B presses for training aids. I also sold RCBS reloading equipment and a variety of supplies so it was to my advantage if people bought a single stage press.. I couldn't sell Dillon presses, however their factory was close by so most of my "students" ended up in Scottsdale buying Dillon products. I always started people off on my Rockchucker but within an hour or two, most of them were cranking out ammo on my Dillon.

Here's why …. with a Single Stage press, you have to change and adjust dies for each stage so you reload in batches .... sizing and depriming, priming, expanding and flaring, dropping powder, seating bullets, and finally crimping …. typically 5 pulls of the handle and handling the brass 10 times for each loaded round. This process requires considerable mechanical aptitude and patience to get the dies installed and adjusted properly. Handling the brass so many times expands your opportunity to make mistakes …. like spilled power, dropping cases, and getting cases cockeyed in the dies.

With a progressive (ie Dillon, Hornady, etc), there's no need to make any adjustments unless you change bullets so this eliminates most of the mechanical drawbacks of a single stage. You just load up the hopper with powder, load up the primer tube, and off you go …. after the first 4 pulls, each additional pull produces a completed live round …. creating about 5 times as much ammo as a single stage in the same period of time. Brass is handled exactly once so there's no spilling, dropping cases, or getting a case cockeyed in a die.

I've also heard the argument that single stage presses turn out better quality ammo than progressives. I believe this is true with some bottle neck rifle ammo but not with handgun ammo. I used my Dillon for many years while shooting NRA bullseye matches and my ammo quality was just as good if not better than ammo produced on a single stage. Funny …. most of the people in competitive shooting sports use a Dillon press. Ever wonder why?

Many of my "students" were pressed for time with their jobs, busy family affairs, and of course shooting so they didn't have much free time for reloading so speed is an attractive feature of progressive presses.

Dillon progressive presses (other brands of progressives too) come with good instruction manuals …. even instructional videos that show you exactly how to set up your press …. very easy to understand and functionally easy to do. Progressive presses are nothing more than 4 or 5 single stage presses with one handle. Granted, some people are overwhelmed by all the "stuff" hanging on the press so they feel more comfortable with a single stage. I understand that, however if those same people were given an opportunity to load a box of ammo on a progressive press, I wonder how many would change their tune? I liked it when customers bought a single stage press, dies, and other RCBS equipment from me, however if I had 3 students in a class, at least 2 bought Dillon presses.

So tell me …. other than the purchase price, where's the advantage of buying a single stage press, especially if you load handgun ammo?

I totally agree with your assessment of Lee products. I had many bad experiences with defective equipment (mostly dies) and Lee refused to make it good. On the contrary with RCBS or Dillon …. just a phone call and you had replacements in the mail with no questions asked or being blamed. I ended up "eating" several hundred dollars worth of Lee equipment that customers returned but Lee would not make good in a timely manner or make good at all, so I had no choice but to quit selling nearly all Lee products.

DrHenley, BTW, Dillon presses are cast aluminum and I've never heard of one breaking …. and if they did break, Dillon's No BS warrantee would replace any broken parts free. I just sold my Dillon RL550 after owning it since 1993. It was just as tight after 27 years of hard use as it was when new.

Mark204 · Mar 2, 2020

Iowegan said:
Although I agree with your statement when it comes to $$$, I don't agree when it comes to function. When comments like this are made, you are basically calling people inept or stupid

Iowegan, my comment was not designed to make anyone feel inept or stupid. If so, my apologies. I’m looking at it more from the safety aspect, nothing more.

taters613 · Mar 2, 2020

Wow guys, thank you so much for all your feedback!!
At this moment, Im really leaning towards a single stage rather than a turret or progressive, and I’ve heard enough bad things from voices I trust so that I’m going to stay away from Lee and possibly lean towards a Dillon. I really don’t mind the prospect of the reduced throughput with a single stage press since I’m a low volume shooter at the moment, and honestly the more “hands on” approach is quite appealing to me. I also like the idea of “batch processing” since it will allow me to isolate the steps (e.g. prime a bunch of cases on Tuesday and load them on Wednesday).

Back to the question of lead exposure: I should clarify that my primary motivation is to completely eliminate any exposure whatsoever to my five year old (she’s as smart as a whip and I plan to keep it that way!), so my main concern at this point is to eliminate any and all lead dust from entering my household. Based on the anecdotal research I’ve done, I’m getting the impression that the greatest risk for lead exposure is presented while cleaning used brass (especially if you use “dry cleaning” techniques). So my plan at this moment is either to avoid reusing my brass altogether, or to use only lead free primers and invest in the materials needed to perform “wet cleaning”.
Let’s say I decide to never re-use my own brass. Since new brass is so expensive, it seems that this would almost completely negate the financial benefits of hand loading, unless I purchased “once-fired” brass that has already been cleaned. Is this a reasonable way to go (purchasing once fired brass and then using it only once)? Or is that just ridiculous?

Finally: I’m still really interested in hearing about people’s experiences with lead free primers. They don’t seem to be prohibitively expensive, so my main concern is that they would have poor performance, or would cause damage to my firearm. I’ve heard that breach face damage was an issue with “green primers” at one point in the early 2000’s, and presumably this was caused by the primers breaking or getting pierced and allowing high pressure gasses to shoot backwards. Does anyone know if this is still an issue?

GP Fan · Mar 2, 2020

Iowegian gave you some very good advice.

I started reloading in the mid-1960's for a .45ACP 1911. We were living in a one bedroom apartment and I had no place to set up a dedicated reloading area so my first reloading tool was a "Lee Loader". It required resizing by driving the shell into the die with a mallet and seating primers the same way (the "wack-a-mole" referred to above). I always cringed when seating the primers.

My next reloading set was a Lyman "nut-cracker" tool that was equally slow but less traumatic for sizing and primer seating.

Once we had the space I bought a Lee 3-station Turret Press but used it as a glorified single stage. Its only advantage was the dies remained in place between steps. It was crude but functional. I never broke it but It didn't feel very precise or strong.

I finally graduated to Dillon Square Deal and then a Dillon XL650 for 9 mm and .38 Special.

For rifle cartridges a good single stage is fine since you typically aren't loading large numbers of rounds at a time. The slow production rate isn't much of a disadvantage unless you are a serious high volume competitor. My current one is a Reading turret press that is very strong and precise but is basically used as a single stage press with a "parking lot" for dies.

For handgun ammo, often loaded in large quantities, there is absolutely no substitute for a progressive and Dillon is the class act of progressives.

Iowegan · Mar 2, 2020

Mark204, I started loading shotgun shells when I was 16 and 38 Specials when I was in my early 20s. I'm 76 now so that means about 60 years of continuous reloading experience. During that time period, I think I have made about every mistake possible but was lucky enough to discover my faults before it resulted in an accident. I started loading 38 Specials on a "whack a mole" Lee pocket loader and soon graduated to a Lyman 310 "lemon squeezer" hand press. When I managed to accumulate enough money (about 1970) I bought a RCBS Rockchucker and a RCBS Ammo Crafter kit. I used that press for 20+ years then finally bought a Dillon RL550 in '93. If I were to add up all the ammo I have loaded, I would say I loaded way more on my Dillon and had just one incident, compared to many incidents with my RCBS. Turned out, when I poured powder in the hopper, I got a small piece of the Styrofoam powder jar seal in the hopper, which found its way to the drop tube and created very low powder charges. I caught the mistake and cleaned out the powder die …. no consequences. This very issue could just as easily happen with any powder measure such as a RCBS Uniflow or a Lyman 55 so I don't consider this a "progressive safety factor", but it certainly was a potential safety issue. Comparing my Dillon to my Rockchucker, I had many more potential safety issues with my single stage equipment so I just don't understand your "safety aspect". Granted, anytime you are dealing with gun powder and primers, there is a potential safety issue but I firmly believe the safety risk is much lower with a progressive.

I can't count the number of times I have read about single stages versus progressives and I'm convinced …. it's either the "parrot syndrome" where people just repeat what they hear, jealousy, or they have a poor mechanical aptitude and think everyone else has the same problem ….. when indeed they have never pulled the handle on a good progressive press like a Dillon or Hornady. IMO, Lee's progressive and RCBS early "Piggy Back" progressives are junk so I can see poor results if these presses were used to form an opinion.

turnkey · Mar 2, 2020

I sure like my Dillon RL 550 and I got it at a SMOKING PRICE

Iowegan · Mar 2, 2020

taters613, Exposure to lead in any form is definitely a safety problem, however using a little common sense will mitigate nearly all issues. First, the primary issue with lead is in the form of lead vapor when you shoot at a range, even if an indoor range has excellent air filtering systems. Lead vapor from primers is the main concern, and of course lead vapor from using lead bullets is also a great concern. Using lead free primers will take care of the primer issue and using FMJ, plated, or coated bullets will take care of bullet lead vapor issues.

At home when reloading, you can easily contain any lead issues by tumbling brass in a vibratory case cleaner with a lid on top. A dryer sheet in your vibratory cleaner will collect most of the residue, including lead particles. You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner and totally eliminate any airborne particles. No doubt, an ultrasonic cleaner with 50/50 water and white vinegar would be your best option …. just dump the used solution down the drain, along with any accumulated residue. Cases come out looking like new, inside and out so the risk of lead contamination is virtually eliminated.

Lead free primers are now available but are hard to find. I haven't seen any brand name lead free primers …. Federal, CCI, Winchester, or Remington, however Fort Smith brand are what US ammo manufacturers use and are well rated with mil specs. Fiocchi and Wolf are also available but I don't know anything about them. You can order them on line but you will have to pay a hazmat fee. Your best bet would be to find a LGS that sells them.

turnkey, Yes and it was almost like losing my first born child!

brnwlms · Mar 2, 2020

taters613, I understand your concern about lead. I have a 1 year old and a 4 year old boy at home who are very much daddy's boys. I dont worry so much about lead in the home as Iowegan has mentioned. The big thing I do is keep my gun/reloading area organized and clean. Basically, my boys cant get into anything. They cant get into the primers, bullets, powders, fired cases, and the lead I have on hand for casting. My biggest concern when it comes to lead is any lead on me after I go shooting. While I cant always shoot as much as I want, at least once or twice a week, I will sneak to an indoor range to get a little trigger time. On days that I go to an indoor range, on my way to pick up my boys, i will swing by the house and change as well as I keep a couple cans of lead wipes in various places such as in my truck, on my reloading bench, etc. and use those any and every time I shoot or reload, and will wipe down any and all exposed skin. Maybe its overkill, but my boys have absolutely minimal (we all have some exposure, even non-shooters) when they have been tested as part of normal physicals and my boys are as smart as can be. My 4 year old is starting school in the fall despite not turning 5 until the end of November and is reading. All this despite having hundreds of pounds of lead in various forms in my house, thousands of "normal" primers, and tens of thousands of cases fired with those "normal" primers. But its good to be aware. Also, as vibratory tumblers are the biggest risk, you can always use them outside.

https://www.amazon.com/Hygenall-Lea...con/dp/B001SJ0JIU/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=lead+wipes&qid=1583183208&sr=8-3

taters613 · Mar 2, 2020

Thanks for the responses brnwlms and Iowegan.
brnwlms: It sounds like we’ve got similar shooting practices, although I’m lucky to get to the range 3-4 times/month and that’s mostly at an outdoor range. Still, your feedback is extremely valuable, and it’s great to hear that you’ve had your boys tested and confirmed that they’re not getting any undue exposure. I follow similar procedures (special clothes and shoes for range time, washing diligently after range visits, etc.).
My plan is have a dedicated reloading/firearm work area in the back of my garage. I will likely also store the primers and bullets in a humidity controlled lockbox inside my garage. It also sounds like an ultrasonic cleaner is totally the way to go, unless there are some downsides to these that I’m not aware of. Looks like they can be found for well under $100. I’m also planning on sticking to TMJ or polymer coated ammo exclusively for the time being. Seems like combining these precautionary measures with the diligent hygiene practices that I already follow should result in a negligible risk of lead exposure to my daughter..

taters613 · Mar 2, 2020

@brnwlms (side note) - Reading at 4 years old?? What the heck are you feeding that boy?! 😂
My little girl started kindergarten early too and is a very good reader now at five and a half years old (one of the best in her class). But reading at four years old and pre-kindergarten is really remarkable. Well done sir!

brnwlms · Mar 2, 2020

I take no credit, he really taught himself with the phonics approach. You do the normal teach them the alphabet and the sounds each letter makes. Well, we got him a shirt with the planets on it that he loved and he started making the sounds and since he knew what the answers were to begin with, he was able to sound them out and the brain being what the brain is, after that he was off to the races.

But I live in Michigan so there is a very big focus on lead (see flint water crisis) so they like to test the kids. No danger here really since I am about 3 hours away from there and live in the country in a “recently” built house on well water. But of course you go to a pediatrician’s office and they have posters on the dangers of guns and such. So, for so many reasons it’s best to watch it of course, but in today’s day and age it’s best not to raise flags, especially if it can be traced to guns.

But back to the original lead issue, I think the biggest “risk” is bringing it home if you shoot at an indoor range and don’t take proper cleaning steps assuming everything else is properly stored. A garage will help keep things clean in the normal living environment. My gun and handloading area is in the “wing” in our basement.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark204 · Mar 2, 2020

Iowegan.....so maybe it’s not a safety concern for you but I view it as one. I believe it’s very important for a new reloader to have a complete and through understanding of the reloading process.......from start to finish. To me that entails hands on work, repetition, engaging your brain on the same task multiple times.That’s where a person learns. My belief..... my opinion, is that it doesn’t happen on a progressive or similar type press. Are progressives better.....of course they are, but I don’t think they are for the beginner.

I guess this is another thread we can agree to disagree on and that’s OK with me.

Iowegan · Mar 3, 2020

DrHenley, Dillon RL550s have steel rams and they are considerably larger in diameter than Rockchuckers. Likewise, they have steel pivot pins. I no longer have my presses so I don't know their exact diameter but maybe someone else can chime in with the details.

OK, you opened a can of worms so I feel like I should respond.

every serious reloader should have at least one good single stage press

Obviously you don't understand so I will enlighten you …. if you have progressive such as a Dillon RL550 you have 4 single stage presses on your bench that share one handle (5 single stage presses if you have a Dillon XL650 or a Hornady L-N-L AP). No where does it say you can't do one step at a time and use a progressive just like a single stage. Examples: You can use a RL550's first stage to size, deprime and reprime a batch of cases. You can even break it down more and do just one of these steps per handle pull …. no different than a normal single stage press. An example of this would be installing a universal decapping die on a tool head and just depriming a batch of cases. I actually did this very thing prior to running spent cases through my ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, you can pick up where you left off an resume reloading. You can use the second stage for a batch of cases to expand and flare case mouths and/or drop power, again …. no different than a dedicated single stage press. You can use the third stage to seat a batch of bullets and you can use the 4th stage to crimp a batch of cartridges ….. once more, just like a single stage press. Each stage is separately accessible by just removing a brass locator pin. With a Hornady L-N-L, you can remove unneeded dies in just a few seconds and accomplish the same thing. So tell me, why should every serious reloader have at least one good single stage press when they already have 4 or 5 ??? Seems to me it would just be a waste of money.

A progress press can also be used just like a turret press by just doing one step at a time, then advancing the shell holder …. 4 ~ 5 pulls per cartridge.

It's obvious to me that you never used a Dillon or Hornady progressive press yet you make comments that are out in left field. I highly recommend you do your homework before stepping on your sword again.

Mark204, I taught well over 100 people to reload. Most people brand new to reloading ended up buying a progressive press and those that bought a single stage were financially strapped and couldn't afford Dillon's prices. I will definitely say …. cost is a big factor. If you don't load very many cartridges per year, a single stage make more sense, however even a decent single stage and all the necessary accessories aren't cheap. I just can't see any difference in safety between the two types.

I whole heartedly agree … people should understand every step in the reloading process …. and by the way, the steps are identical with a single stage, a turret, or a progressive press. If you are one of those people that get intimidated by machinery then you should definitely use a single stage but don't assume everyone else is overwhelmed by the mechanics of a progressive or turret. My experience says just the opposite where people with less mechanical aptitude tend to enjoy a progressive more because changing dies and handling each cases 10 times with a single stage is just too much for them.

No doubt, the key to this discussion is "training". If you jump into reloading without a mentor or a good training program, likely you won't get far before you screw something up …. no matter what press you use.

DrHenley · Mar 3, 2020

Iowegan said:
.
It's obvious to me that you never used a Dillon or Hornady progressive press yet you make comments that are out in left field. I highly recommend you do your homework before stepping on your sword again.
.

I am not interested in a pissing match. I expressed my opinion based on 50 years of reloading 22 different cartridges, and conversations with many reloaders. But I respect your opinion on it. Let's just leave it at that.

Old School Wheelgunner · Mar 3, 2020

I started with a single-stage press and now have two. I won’t contradict Iowegan on the advantages of a progressive press, but I am a chaeapskate and was not sure then that I would like reloading as much as I do.

My RCBS presses came to me used and work well. So did most of my dies, scale, and other gear. EBay has deals for the patient. The scale was new old RCBS stock.

Now that I am a bit more experienced I have come to love Redding dies, especially carbide ones that let me skip lubing cases for my handguns. If I had to do it all again, I would opt for a progressive press.

As for needs, a good balance-beam scale, check weights, and multiple manuals. I started with scoops and a trickler but moved to a powder dropper for many loads. Still use scoops and trickler for some rifle powders.

Good lighting goes without saying. I clean cases with an ultrasonic cleaner I scored cheap on Amazon.

I would be sure to read all the fun and informative articles in the front of Lyman’s 50th, as you get started.

Did I save money? No. I shoot more. Only item I no longer use is a hand primer. I much prefer the ram-priming unit I found...used of course.

rclark · Mar 3, 2020

My take is to just keep it simple. Start with something that is quality, but not extravagant. A Rock Chucker or a Hornady Standard Press come to mind. My suggestion would be a single stage. A manual powder scale is a requirement. Nothing there to 'go wrong' really. I use the same scale that I started with, and it is never needed to be adjusted. And an adjustable powder measure. Don't go with say dippers... I believe you can buy a 'whole' package that has the press, scale, powder measure, funnel, all rolled into one.

I started on a single stage press back in the early 80s and still do not feel the need to complicate the process with a progressive. With my Single Actions and Black Powder shooting, I can easily keep up. In fact I put aside my perfectly good Pacific O Press for a new Hornady Iron Press last year just because I wanted to try the die quick change and it looked like a very 'solid' press. Turns out to be pretty neat setup although I did change how the primers are ejected. Nor to I use the priming system and I always hand prime with an RCBS hand tool (my preference).

To me, a progressive should always be the 'next' press. If, if you find yourself spending to much time at the bench, or just want to try one once the fundamentals are mastered. That's just my opinion though.

taters613 · Mar 3, 2020

Thanks for the advice!
I like the look of the Hornady “Lock-N-Load classic single stage kit”. Looks like it comes with everything I would need except the dies, a micrometer, and something for cleaning the used brass (if I decide to go this route).
How’s the quality and durability of the Hornady presses? Are they generally considered to be a step up from the Lee’s?

Rangerdeepv · Mar 3, 2020

I own two Hornady presses. The good ol' single stage and the AP. The single stage is what I started on and still use for certain operations and large rifle ammo. The AP is for 5.56 NATO and pistol ammo. Funny thing is I thought I would save $$$$ also and ended up buying all the latest reloading gadgets and had to have a Forster Coax press in the process also. Anyone who has reloaded more than once has started their own rhythm and habits be they good or bad. I also have made a few mistakes and learned from them. From squib loads to wrong powder charge and forgetting to lube a bottleneck large rifle case before re-sizing. It is a fascinating past time and addicting. One golden rule....always, always use popular published material for reloading recipes! A friend has the blown barrel and burn scars to prove what it can do. I only shoot other's reloads if I have worked with them and seen their process and then only a couple rounds. Have fun and remember...........slow is smooth and smooth is fast! Double check everything then check again!

NICKEL CITY DUDE · Mar 3, 2020

I started reloading in the late 70’s. I started with black powder in muskets and breach loading carbines. I then moved to loading for my 1860 Henry with black powder cartridges. I started with a Lyman single stage press. But quickly went to a Lyman turret press. The turret press works like a single stage press but it will hold 6 dies and it is possible to move between them quickly without having to reset the dies. Then I graduated to a Dillon 650 because I was now making blanks for Cowboy and Civil War reenacting and needed to make them faster. I still load the blanks on the 650 but also now reload for 44-40, 9mm and 45acp. If I had it to do over again I would have skipped the single stage press and gone to the Lyman turret press right away. I still have my turret press for doing touch ups on cartridges and building a new load but I have never regretted getting the Dillon 650 for most of my reloading.

Iowegan · Mar 3, 2020

Seems everyone has their preference on what brand and model press they use …. and that's the way it should be. I was not trying to sell anyone on a progressive but I was trying to dispel the myth about "starting with a single stage". Granted, progressive or turret presses are not for everyone but the reasons are more for initial cost, available time for reloading, and the amount of ammo you plan to load ….. not because of complexity, quality of ammo, or one type being more/less safe. If you can keep up with your shooting demands with a single stage, there's no reason to buy a turret or progressive press …. unless you just want to.

Fact is, the learning curve for operating any reloading press is measured in a few hours … even the most complicated progressive press doesn't take long to learn. The most important part of reloading has a little to do with the equipment and adjustments but it has way more to do with understanding ballistic fundamentals such as powder burn rates, minimum and maximum chamber pressures, how bullet weights affect loads, matching lead bullet hardness to chamber pressure, dropping powder from a powder measure, trickling up powder charges, loading for precision accuracy versus loading for plinking, case preparation …. to include cleaning cases, conditioning primer pockets, trimming cases, annealing, etc. Although the same basic equipment is used for centerfire rifle and centerfire handgun ammo, the actual techniques can be radically different. Considering rifles are often fired at 10 times or more the distance than handguns, there's a lot to learn about bullet shapes, ballistic coefficients, and loading techniques to include producing ammo with concentrically seated bullets. It can take years to learn these techniques and when you think you have it all figured out, a new powder, product, or some new accessory will come on the market that will change the way you reload. Some examples …. digital calipers, digital scales, automated powder dispensers, auto primer feeders, auto bullet feeders, bullet comparators, ultrasonic cleaners, stainless steel pin tumblers, and the list goes on and on. None of these products were available when I started reloading. Do you really need all that stuff? At first, probably not but as your reloading hobby expands, you may find a need for all sorts of goodies. Some people go for may years with their head in the sand concerning loading techniques. If they are happy with their results, who can fault them!

Myg30 · Mar 3, 2020

Along with all the other good advice I’d like to add, start out on the 38spl. and after you do that for a while then you might progress into the higher pressure calibers.
Simple mistakes are more forgiving on 38’s.

Be safe and no question is stupid. Ask away and read up on those loading books before you dive in.

Mike

Newbie Hand loading questions

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