trigger pull in DA on SP101 22LR 8-shot revolver - Ruger Forum

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trigger pull in DA on SP101 22LR 8-shot revolver

This is a discussion on trigger pull in DA on SP101 22LR 8-shot revolver within the Pistols & Revolvers forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and need the advice of you knowledgeable folks. Also, thanks, Lash, for the welcome message. I couldn't figure ...


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Old March 27th, 2014, 09:30 AM   #1
 
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Question trigger pull in DA on SP101 22LR 8-shot revolver

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forum and need the advice of you knowledgeable folks.

Also, thanks, Lash, for the welcome message. I couldn't figure out how to reply to it.

The trigger pull on my SP101 22LR (8-shot, stainless steel) in double action is super-heavy. After some research on the internet, apparently many people choose to have at least one of the springs replaced with Wolf springs, and some have sent the gun back to the manufacturer. I am not knowledgeable on these matters at all. My questions are:

1. Is it advisable to have trigger work done on it? If so, should I have both springs replaced, or just the large hammer spring? In single action, the trigger pull seems fine to me as it is. It's just the DA that's so tough.

2. How much lighter should I go, to avoid FTF's? I have read that the factory spring is about 14 lbs., and some people modify down to a 10-lb. spring. Will a 10-lb. spring give sure firing? Or should I go with a 12-lb. replacement (if I should replace it at all)? I would be much more upset with non-fires than I am with the heavy trigger pull, so I'd want a very dependable spring. (I can always just use it in SA. And sometimes when I try to "fix" things I wind up making them worse, and I don't want to do that here. )

3. Also, about how much should this work cost, if I decide to have it done? Is this something I should contact Ruger about, or is it really just a personal preference type thing? That DA pull does seem ridiculously heavy, and long.

Some (probably unnecessary) background on the gun: I purchased this revolver this week, very slightly used. (It's so beautiful!! LOL) I got it for $520, which probably wasn't a great deal, but I'm hoping it was a reasonable one. (I also purchased another handgun, and got an additional discount on it and some ammo because I bought two.) I'm having to trust the shop that sold it. It looks like it hasn't even been fired, and has the box, manuals, etc., except for the original grips. It has some kind of black rubber grips which are very comfortable and look good imo. I bought it only for casual target shooting, really just for occasional fun and practice (and to have an additional gun to pass on to the grandkids someday). I like shooting .38 Specials, but they are so dang expensive.

I should probably add that I'm a female in my 60's, but that said, I'm not especially wimpy, considering. I don't have frequent access to a range but I enjoy killing tin cans when I can. I thought a .22 would be a great handgun for that, and this one won my heart.

One other thing: Although the manual plainly states it is OK to dry fire this revolver, do you guys think this is OK? Should I use snap caps? I've always thought rim fires should not be dry fired. ???

(Sorry so wordy!)

I appreciate everyone's advice and thoughts on this handgun. Thanks much!



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Old March 27th, 2014, 09:42 AM   #2
 
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Welcome from North Carolina...

I haven't done anything to my SP101 22. The trigger seems to get getting better even though it wasn't to bad to begin with the more I fire it.

I very seldom dryfire any of my guns. It puts unnecessary wear and tear on the gun.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 10:42 AM   #3
 
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Hard questions to answer.
Some have good results swapping springs, some lose ignition reliability.
No set solution.

The gun requires a good amount of energy for dependable ignition & that has to come from the springs.
The trigger's stiff for a reason.

I've left mine alone, in my case it doesn't matter since I won't be shooting it DA anyway.
Denis
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Old March 27th, 2014, 10:55 AM   #4
 
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I have the 357 version of your gun, so I can't tell you for sure what spring will work best.

Here is my recommendation: Buy the Wolff spring kit. It's around $15. I got mine on ebay. It comes with 9, 10 and 12lb hammer springs. Changing them yourself takes about 5 minutes. Maybe 10.

The kit also comes with a lighter trigger return spring. Swapping that took me around half an hour, and is definitely more involved, but still not a big deal, if you want to do it. Some people don't like the lighter trigger return. I do.

I would start with the 12lb hammer spring, and see how it goes. It's a simple enough swap that you can do it at the range (or wherever you shoot), to experiment with the 10lb, or go back to the factory spring if you have misfires.

Here's a video on changing the hammer spring. The same guy does a video on changing the trigger spring, if you want to do that, too. Ruger SP 101 Super Simple Trigger Job - YouTube
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Old March 27th, 2014, 11:23 AM   #5
 
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Thanks for the fast replies and the YT link! All good info for me.

I welcome additional comments and advice, and any experiences you've had with this model.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 04:00 PM   #6
 
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Uh-oh, bad news.

I took this revolver to a friend's place (21 acres) to practice with it this afternoon, and after 7 rounds (common Remington copper clad HP), the gun malfunctioned. The eighth round did not fire when the trigger was pulled (never did fire), and then the hammer could not be pulled back. It would move a short distance and then would not budge further. The trigger also would not move after that. After emptying the cylinder with the ejector, there was difficulty closing the cylinder. I got it closed, but it took several tries, and even then there seemed to be too much resistance in closing the cylinder. The hammer still would not pull back. My friend, who also owns a .22 revolver, never even got to fire it. I did absolutely nothing to have caused this problem. I have loaded and fired .22 revolvers, .38 Specials, and .357 Magnums many times with never a problem.

After getting it home, I opened and closed the cylinder, with some difficulty, a few times until I finally got the hammer to pull back. I dry fired it a couple of times, and it locked up again. I haven't worked with it any more.

There is a little scratch inside the frame where the rear of the cylinder (the middle of the ejector?) crosses it when closing the cylinder. I can only guess that that is the cause of the cylinder becoming hard to close, but have no idea why the hammer can't be pulled back once the cylinder locks into place. The ejector seems to snap back into place just as it should. The cylinder "should" close normally.

I plan to call the gun shop tomorrow to see if they will give me an exchange, or at the least repair the gun. (They told me nothing was wrong with the gun and that it was in like-new pristine condition, and they did not know why it was traded, before I bought it. They said they stand behind their sales.) If they don't make it good, I guess I'll phone Ruger to see if they will repair it. It's certainly not usable as it is.

Needless to say, I am very disappointed with this gun, and feel like I've been had. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks so much for your input on this problem.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 04:06 PM   #7
 
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I'm sure Ruger would fix it, but I'd be tempted to just return it to the shop and get a new one. They charged you the price of the new one, anyway. Ruger SP101 .22LR 4.2 inch Stainless AS Fiber OPT Online Gun Store
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Old March 27th, 2014, 04:23 PM   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnf View Post
There is a little scratch inside the frame where the rear of the cylinder (the middle of the ejector?) crosses it when closing the cylinder. I can only guess that that is the cause of the cylinder becoming hard to close, but have no idea why the hammer can't be pulled back once the cylinder locks into place. The ejector seems to snap back into place just as it should. The cylinder "should" close normally.
That drag line is pretty normal, all of my revolvers have one. However, obviously the rest of your issue is not normal. Perhaps that's why someone sold it in the first place? I tend to agree with taking it back to the gun store. Even if it has to go back to Ruger, they should deal with sending it.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 05:06 PM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantm View Post
I have the 357 version of your gun, so I can't tell you for sure what spring will work best.

Here is my recommendation: Buy the Wolff spring kit. It's around $15. I got mine on ebay. It comes with 9, 10 and 12lb hammer springs. Changing them yourself takes about 5 minutes. Maybe 10.
This is on the Wolff Spring website, YMMV:

Important Note:
Due to changes in this gun by the manufacturer, the spring below will not function in SP101 .22 caliber rimfire models manufactured during and after 2011.



Springs for RUGER SP-101 Revolvers
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Old March 27th, 2014, 05:20 PM   #10
 
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This is a no-brainer. See if the gunstore will take it back. If not, Ruger will fix it, most likely for free.

I have the same gun. I have not made any mods to the springs but the trigger pull did lighten up a bit after some shooting. It will always be stiff, but it is quite smooth.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 06:15 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSMALLO View Post
This is on the Wolff Spring website, YMMV:

Important Note:
Due to changes in this gun by the manufacturer, the spring below will not function in SP101 .22 caliber rimfire models manufactured during and after 2011.
Whoa, good catch!
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Old March 27th, 2014, 07:21 PM   #12
 
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Thanks again, guys. More good info and advice.

I'm going to take it back to the shop tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed for me! I'll let you know what happens.
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Old March 28th, 2014, 04:27 PM   #13
 
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The shop stood behind their sale; they took the gun back and gave me a full refund. They fired it a few times, and couldn't get it to malfunction. Still not sure they totally believed it has a problem, but they didn't give me any problem about taking it back.
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Old March 30th, 2014, 02:28 PM   #14
 
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Somebody dumped a lemon on that gun shop, and it's good they gave you a refund. That gun may have been a "kitchen table gunsmith" job that was a failure, someone may have attempted to "smooth up" the action and changed the angles on the hammer or trigger interface.

Take the money you got back and get a brand new one
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Old March 30th, 2014, 04:50 PM   #15
 
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Actually, that's just what I did!

I haven't had an opportunity to fire the new one yet, but it does have a VERY heavy trigger pull in DA, and very heavy hammer pull for SA (tried with snap caps). I'm going to try to get one of the previous Ruger springs for it if I can, per a post in another thread. Apparently Ruger changed the type of spring in this model sometime last year, making the pull even heavier than it already was. I do wish they would address that issue.

The force required to fire it may put a damper on how much I use it, but it is one BEAUTIFUL handgun, and that shouldn't be as much of a problem for the grandson who eventually inherits it. (I don't get to shoot that often anyway.) Regardless, I loved the first one--for the whole 7 rounds that it worked. I anticipate enjoying the new one even more. Should it experience any problems, I feel confident that Ruger will fix them.

Thanks for the advice and comments I've received in this thread.
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