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Removing Rust

This is a discussion on Removing Rust within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Originally Posted by Old School Wheelgunner I have never left it out, since the old-car boys and the label state otherwise. Perhaps if you fully ...


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Old August 17th, 2019, 06:10 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by Old School Wheelgunner View Post
I have never left it out, since the old-car boys and the label state otherwise. Perhaps if you fully coat the rust? I have always sanded metal and primed after using Ospho.
That was the first time I ever used it.
I was testing it's claims.



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Old August 17th, 2019, 07:19 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by ngashooter View Post
Flitz metal polish is non abrasive and says on the label "Safe for factory bluing".
Is there any difference between Flitz and an abrasive tooth paste?
For example, Ultrabrite Advanced Whitening is #260 on the RDA relative dentin abrasivity scale, and is considered "harmfully abrasive" on teeth.

I plan to use this to polish the chambers of my Stoeger 12-gauge.
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Old August 17th, 2019, 08:38 AM   #18
 
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Since the gun blue finish is just a specific type of “rust”, the goal is to covert the hydrated iron oxide (red, fluffy rust - Fe2O3) to magnetite (hard, black rust - Fe3O4). You can accomplish that by immersing the rusted part in boiling water and then rubbing (lightly) with very fine steel wool and oil. This is similar to the process for “rust bluing”.

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Old August 17th, 2019, 05:31 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by laidlerj View Post
Since the gun blue finish is just a specific type of “rust”, the goal is to covert the hydrated iron oxide (red, fluffy rust - Fe2O3) to magnetite (hard, black rust - Fe3O4). You can accomplish that by immersing the rusted part in boiling water and then rubbing (lightly) with very fine steel wool and oil. This is similar to the process for “rust bluing”.

Jim
"(S)he blinded me with science!"

Nifty idea I would be inclined to try....
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