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How to clean bore on new 10/22 rifle?

This is a discussion on How to clean bore on new 10/22 rifle? within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; If your receiver doesn't have a cleaning port use a pull cable and pull from the chamber thru the muzzle....


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Old February 2nd, 2019, 07:15 PM   #16
 
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If your receiver doesn't have a cleaning port use a pull cable and pull from the chamber thru the muzzle.



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Old February 3rd, 2019, 06:15 AM   #17
 
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What about a bore snake?
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Old February 3rd, 2019, 07:12 AM   #18
 
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All my rimfires get a good initial scrubbing using a rod and MPro7. After that I use a Patchworm with MPro7 unless accuracy starts to drop off, then I give them a good scrubbing using a rod again with brushes and a patch jag.

I don't think drilling an access hole in the back of the receiver is too much work for little gain as posted by another forum member. I've seen too many Garands on the rack with great throats and clear bores but worn out muzzles from cleaning with a rod from the front.
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Old February 4th, 2019, 07:52 PM   #19
 
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Sportsmans Whse has bore guides of brass with different size holes.
I'm still using old aluminum Otters cleaning rods from the sixties.
The bore guide on the rod and against the muzzle and keep it there whil swabbing brushign etc.
When I was young didn't know where to find such things as cleaning rods. Used heavy needle or hair pin and heavy thread, cut piece of cloth judged to be tight enough and tied the thread around the middle, Soaked with 3in1 oil the only cleaner and lube and protectant we had,in the hills. Tied on fresh dry piece to wipe it out of the bore.
Only fouling we fond wa burned and unburned powder bits and a bit of waxy bullet lube sometimes. Gun didn't have a chance to rust. It was cleaned and erled on every surface seemingly every few days. Someof my Cousins still have that old 28 inch Springfield single shot 22 with the finest feeling linseed oil rubbed stock.
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Old March 7th, 2020, 10:57 AM   #20
 
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Not trying to start an argument here ...

I used Hoppes for a long time. Tried a few others also, always went back to Hoppes. Then I tried Deep Creep. I found that even after a through cleaning with Hoppes that Deep Creep removed even more crud that I didn't know was in there. My borescope shows a really clean bore.

I believe that the techs at Tactical Solutions use Deep Creep exclusively, and only on patches, not even brushes.
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Old March 8th, 2020, 07:08 AM   #21
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DesertRatAZ, The concept for cleaning a bore is twofold. First, you need to remove powder residue. This is very important, especially with 22 LRs because finely ground glass is used in the priming compound. Further, when any powder burns, it leaves carbon particles that are very sharp and hard. This is what wears a bore out. Hoppe's or most any other powder solvent does a good job on powder/primer residue.

Next is to remove most bullet residue. For 22s and some handguns, the bullet residue is lead. For guns shooting jacketed bullets, that residue is called "gilding metal" which is an alloy of copper and zinc. Powder solvents will remove some bullet residue but better products such as lead removers or Sweet's 7.62 for jacketed bullets is the best.

Notice I said "most bullet residue" in the previous paragraph. Leaving a little bullet residue helps keep the bore seasoned. Believe it or not …. leaving some bullet fouling is a good thing because it fills in striation marks (machine marks from cutting rifling) and makes the bore smoother so it doesn't file down the first few bullets you fire. If you remove virtually all bullet residue, you will have to fire a few "fouling shots" to re-season the barrel and fill in striation marks, otherwise accuracy won't be at its best. If guns are going in long term storage, try to clean out the bullet fouling as much as possible but if you plan to shoot the gun in the next few months, removing all bullet fouling is counterproductive.

Deep Creep has chemical agents that dissolve powder and bullet residue. The good news is … it does a better job than normal solvents. The bad news is …. it also eats the steel in your bore. I would limit the use of Deep Creep to maybe once a year and use normal gun cleaning products the rest of the time.
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Old March 8th, 2020, 08:35 AM   #22
 
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Just for my two cents, and not to dispute what any individual has said, I have switched to carbon-fiber rods for both my rifles and handguns. They don't permanently bend, ever. They don't break. They have no abrasive components (like the inevitable aluminum oxide forming on the surface of an aluminum rod), they are not coated because they don't need to be, they don't absorb or collect any material. They cost a little more but are worth it.
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Old March 8th, 2020, 10:08 AM   #23
 
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Not trying to push his products but I have one of these and works very well as all his tools do.

https://gunsmithertools.com/shop?ols...rill-owb44667a
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Old March 8th, 2020, 03:00 PM   #24
 
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Iowegan:

I didn't describe my entire cleaning process. After cleaning the bore (whether with Hoppes or Deep Creep. I use brushes and patches, alternating until the patch is clean.) I always run 2 or 3 dry patches thru, making sure the patches come out dry and clean. Then I oil up a patch or two and run thru the bore. While I try to not over lube the wear points, I see no problem if the bore is oily. It protects the steel. I've tried a variety of lubes, including Mobil-1, and always came back to BreakFree CLP. My experience with Mobil-1 is it doesn't seem to stick around. I don't know what the chemistry is, but the vapor pressure must be high, since it seems to disappear off the metal just sitting in my safe.

BTW, I don't shoot a lot of jacketed ammo, but I do use Sweets occasionally. And after discovering your article on hardness I did change bullets. My leading has diminished markedly.
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Old March 9th, 2020, 05:56 PM   #25
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RugerDave60 View Post
From the Ruger site video, they use a cable but having trouble finding one.
Looks like 3 piece rod can't access from the breech?
Looks like Otis has a solution but I can't source it in Canada.
Any ideas?
Will brownells or cabelas ship to canada.
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Old March 10th, 2020, 07:53 AM   #26
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blackvoid, What is important is to keep the rod clean so it doesn't add contamination to a bore. Carbon fiber rods have the best overall attributes with solid brass rods being a close second. IMO, 3-piece aluminum rods are the worst

Reeferman, Nothing like an overkill. No doubt the "Cleaning Rod Hole Drill" works well but a 69 cent 1/4" drill bit, a caliper, a center punch, and an electric drill works just as well and saves you $32.26 ….. plus you don't have to remove the barrel to drill the hole.

DesertRatAZ, There's nothing wrong with your deep cleaning procedure but I don't get too excited about cleaning ALL of the bullet residue out. If you shoot a rifle pretty often, a deep cleaning procedure like yours is advised about once a year. Cleaning after each shooting session is also advised, but primarily to remove abrasive powder residue. In other words, there is such a thing as damaging the bore from over cleaning with chemical agents such as Deep Creep.

Gun storage conditions dictate what method to use. If your guns are stored in high humidity conditions, then it's best to remove as much bullet and powder residue as possible. If your guns are stored in dry climate or an air conditioned environment, then it's best to leave a little bullet fouling in the bore. Why? There's a condition called "galvanic action" (Google it) which involves two dissimilar metals where pitting will take place in the bore when an electrolyte is present. Humidity and powder residue can form an electrolyte. In dry climate storage, there's no electrolyte because humidity is too low for it to form. Keeping most of the striation marks in a bore filled with bullet jacket material improves accuracy because a pristine clean bore will actually file off a little bullet material until the marks get filled again. Meantime, your first several shots have less than optimum accuracy until the bore is seasoned again. Long range shooters will notice a difference in accuracy but plinkers or hunters probably won't see a difference when just shooting at 100 yards.

When I lived in Arizona (Phoenix area), humidity was very low except during the monsoon season. My house had an evaporative cooler (swamp cooler) that was used in the spring and fall, and a normal refrigerated air conditioner that was used in the summer. This was a true test of how well your gun products worked. If my guns weren't kept well oiled on the surface, it was common to see rust starting to form when the swamp cooler was in use. Now I live in Iowa where high humidity is common in the summer. My guns are stored in a very dry air conditioned area so I never see any signs of rust year around …. even if I forget to oil the surfaces.

For handguns shooting jacketed bullets, you will never see an accuracy difference between a seasoned bore and a pristine clean bore so it really doesn't matter if you use a bullet solvent (like Sweet's 7.62) or not …. as long as you use a good powder solvent and finish up with a oil mop. If you shoot lead bullets, it's always advisable to remove all lead fouling every time you finish a shooting session.

Last edited by Iowegan; March 10th, 2020 at 08:02 AM.
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Old March 10th, 2020, 08:40 AM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
As AzShooter1 noted, you can drill a hole in the receiver that will allow you to clean from the breech end. This hole will also act as a bore guide......Here's a photo with the dimensions for the cleaning hole.
This is what I did after getting tired of using bore snakes, Otis' pull-through cable, etc. Drilling that hole is very simple and makes cleaning from the breach as easy as any other action.

I laid out the center of the hole using a caliper and a center punch and drilled the hole with my cordless hand drill. I drilled starting with a 3/32" drill bit and going up in increments to 1/4". I packed a rag into the receiver to catch the chips and chamfered the edges of the hole with fine emery cloth. Clean up any residue and reassemble the rifle.

There are jigs available to do this job but they are worth it only if you are doing multiple guns. Mine took about 20 minutes including disassemble and final reassembly.

Given the usual 16" to 20" barrels on most 10/22s, a standard length cleaning rod suitable for most bolt action rifles is plenty long enough. Actually the receiver of a 10/22 is shorter then the receivers on many bolt action 22 and centerfire rifles.

Last edited by GP Fan; March 10th, 2020 at 08:46 AM.
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Old March 10th, 2020, 06:34 PM   #28
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
Deep Creep has chemical agents that dissolve powder and bullet residue. The good news is it does a better job than normal solvents. The bad news is . it also eats the steel in your bore. I would limit the use of Deep Creep to maybe once a year and use normal gun cleaning products the rest of the time.
I'm going to disagree with you on this statement. Looking at the components listed for Deep Creep (since they include the CAS numbers for the ingredients), there is nothing in the formulation that will attack steel. The isopropyl alcohol is hygroscopic, but it will evaporate long before that causes a problem.
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Old March 11th, 2020, 07:36 AM   #29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cptpoly View Post
The Otis system is awesome. It works great on the 10/22. Just make sure you also buy the "Limited Breach" .22 caliber bore brush, as it is short enough to be pulled through the breach towards the muzzle end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbeiwHiIdFo
Thanks for sharing the video.
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Old March 11th, 2020, 07:50 AM   #30
 
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I picked up an Otis cable cleaning kit at a Wally Mart , neat little system big improvement over the bore snake . Some place in Canada must sell stuff like this .
Another option is clean from the muzzle and just be careful , I did it like that for 20 years then found out about a little plastic muzzle protector ...used it another 15 years before the snakes and cables came out...
Cleaning from the muzzle with an aluminum rod wont destroy your 10/22 , just be careful .
Gary
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