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Which spring needs to go back?

This is a discussion on Which spring needs to go back? within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; The wife and I went out today with our revolvers. She has taken ownership of the 3"gp100 and shots it well. Once upon a time ...


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Old December 2nd, 2019, 02:47 PM   #1
 
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Which spring needs to go back?

The wife and I went out today with our revolvers. She has taken ownership of the 3"gp100 and shots it well.

Once upon a time I installed a 10# hammer and trigger return spring. It has had several hundred rounds fired since then. I would guess at least 500.

In that time the trigger has really really smoothed out and the trigger is VERY light.

She was shooting it today and .. No fire. I was watching her and the cylinder rotated so I assumed maybe I messed up on my reloads. Has only happened with one round in the last couple thousand but I did seat a primer deep and it failed in my 686 and I figured that was it.

I take the gun, unload it and click, click, click. So the cylinder is rotating but the hammer is not coming back.

I pull the hammer back manually and pull the trigger, hammer drops and afterwards .. it works fine. We only shoot in DA. She fired some 50 more rounds DA and no issues??

I am thinking one of the springs I replaced did not have enough tension to reset the hammer on that one fail? I really dont know and am guessing.

I have both of the original springs. Am I right to assume its one of the springs that caused the problem and if so which one should I change back to the factory. I am thinking the hammer spring??

Thank you for any help!!
Alex



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Old December 2nd, 2019, 04:25 PM   #2
 
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Though the description of what happened is somewhat lacking, I would suspect the trigger return spring.
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 04:42 PM   #3
 
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If everything is working except the hammer is not cocking in DA then my suspicion is that there is something going wrong with the hammer dog. That is the little movable lever at the base of the hammer, the trigger catches on the hammer dog as it is pulled and raises the hammer, after the hammer falls the hammer dog folds back into its groove as the trigger resets. If the hammer dog does not reset the trigger will not cock the hammer in DA. There is a little spring behind the hammer dog, if this spring is not working consistantly, or the hammer dog is too wobbly that might be causing your problem. the lightness of the hammer spring or the trigger reset spring shouldn't have any affect on your problem. Using the gun in SA may have given the hammer dog time to reset. Along with a 12# hammer spring and an 8# trigger spring I shimmed my hammer, trigger and hammer dog.
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 05:16 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackvoid View Post
Though the description of what happened is somewhat lacking, I would suspect the trigger return spring.
I dont know how much more I can add but I will describe it without the extra words.

She shot about 4-5 cylinders without issue.
She loaded up again, it fired once more then she pulled the trigger and failure to fire. She tried two more times no fire.
She put the gun down. I unloaded it. Pointed it down range and pulled the trigger three times.
The cylinder rotated but the hammer did not move
I manually cocked the hammer, pointed down range and pulled the trigger. Hammer fell
I then pulled the trigger 3 more times in double action and the gun worked normally
We loaded the gun and she shot some 6-7 more cylinders without any issues
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 06:40 PM   #5
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I agree wth CtYankee - sounds like a hammer dog issue from your desciption. FYI - you can remove the hammer dog from the hammer entirely and your GP100 will be a SA revolver. The trigger will rotate the cylinder but the hammer will not move. You can cock the hammer and it will fire in SA as before. This seems to match your description so I would suspect something with the hammer dog and not the springs. Been running light springs in a number of GP100s for a long time with no issues.

Intermittent problems can be tough. You say it's working fine now - hard to fix it when it ain't broke.
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 06:58 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waveform View Post
Intermittent problems can be tough. You say it's working fine now - hard to fix it when it ain't broke.
Yea I dig it. Bummer though because now it cant be trusted for anything but range duty. I cant call ruger on a warrenty issue. It never happened before and stopped happening after i cocked the hammer once. I was hoping there was something I could check or do?

Maybe it was just a one off occurance. Think I will pull out the trigger and check the hammer dog spring but it will be like the scene in countless movies where the guy lifts the hood of the stalled car as if he knew what to look for or hoping the car would fix itself simply by looking at it.
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Old December 3rd, 2019, 03:45 AM   #7
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You don't need to pull the trigger assembly to remove the hammer assembly. If the hammer dog spring is defective it might announce the issue to you the way a broken belt does under the hood.

If the spring looks weird or the hammer dog doesn't look like pictures found through Google, they are the likely culprit. Springs do break, they get fouled up making travel difficult, they get kinked during install.
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Old December 3rd, 2019, 03:04 PM   #8
 
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well for anyone that is following along or who comes along later with the same issue .. I searched for over an hour using different search terms and search engines and found the answer from Da Man himself

Iowegan
Quote:
WhistlerSWE, The "cylinder rotation without cocking the hammer" syndrome is because the trigger is not fully resetting. This is common if the trigger spring has been replaced with a reduced power spring or if the trigger plunger has rough spot.
https://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-...ck-hammer.html

So I put the factory trigger spring back in. I actually prefer the action with the heavier trigger spring and just wont tell the wife and see if she even notices.
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Old December 3rd, 2019, 04:35 PM   #9
 
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The hole that the trigger spring slides into often has burrs that catch the spring; you can clean out any burrs by hand turning a 13/64 drill in the hole. As I said, I use an 8# spring and my trigger fully returns and the hammer cocks consistantly just as fast as I can pull the trigger, so your 10# spring should be able to work. But, if you're happy, I'm happy.
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Old December 3rd, 2019, 05:55 PM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CtYankee View Post
The hole that the trigger spring slides into often has burrs that catch the spring; you can clean out any burrs by hand turning a 13/64 drill in the hole. As I said, I use an 8# spring and my trigger fully returns and the hammer cocks consistantly just as fast as I can pull the trigger, so your 10# spring should be able to work. But, if you're happy, I'm happy.
I pulled the trigger assembly out and the hammer. I checked over everything. No burs or anything at all unusual. A tiny tiny bit of spudge but nothing that should have impacted the action. I did notice the Hammer dog is just floating on that pin and it has a ton of play but .. I guess that is the way Ruger designed it. I checked the function of the hammer dog spring and it seemed to operate normally.

I wiped down all the parts, put a couple of drops of oil and put back in the old trigger return spring.

I actually did not like the feel of the trigger with the 10# trigger spring. Way mushy for me. The wife liked it though. At this point the ruger is very much smoothed out so the lighter spring is kind of moot.

I need this to be a gun that my wife defends herself with, god forbid, should I not be around. I need it to function all the time. I dont mind range toys that are finicky but this has to work.
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