No. 1 International Harris AccurizerThis is a discussion on No. 1 International Harris Accurizer within the Ruger Single-Shot forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I'm sorry if this has already been covered here but I can't find it. I've just purchased a No. 1 International .30-06 from a friend. ...  |
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June 5th, 2012, 09:55 PM
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#1 |
Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
| No. 1 International Harris Accurizer
I'm sorry if this has already been covered here but I can't find it. I've just purchased a No. 1 International .30-06 from a friend. Her father kept reloading records and it seems that the best he ever managed from this rifle is 0.8 MOA. That's pretty respectable but I think better is possible. In my searches of the internet I found the Harris Accurizer sold by E. A. Brown Co.. My question is for any of you that have this stule rifle and the Accurizer. Will it work with the Mannlincher stock? All references to it show it used on other versions. I'm sure there is a big difference in the harmonics because the longer stock is attached to the barrel in different places.
This is the only thing I can find that is specific to this rifle and there are at least two other ways to adjust harmonics - I hope it'll help with the Mannlincher stock. EAB also sells a set trigger that can only help though it's not a concept that's specific to the No. 1. Do any of you know of any other tricks that I can use/try that are more specific to this rifle? Though I alsready have reloading notes I'll work up my loads - other than that I'm at a loss.
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June 6th, 2012, 05:57 AM
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#2 |
Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Florida Fun Coast
Posts: 495
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Mannlicher-style stock is not for accuracy, but looks. If you mess with it or modify it to achieve some small gain over.8 MOA, you will lose more in value than you will gain in effective accuracy.
Having it bedded by a master gunsmith might give you a slight improvement without harming the value of the rifle. I recall that all No. 1s have a tension spring under the forearm that can be modified at its contact point for better accuracy.
But what is the point? Will you shoot in match competition? It is intended to be a pretty little field gun, compact and accurate brush rifle. The inherent accuracy is better than 99 percent of us can shoot.
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June 6th, 2012, 06:00 AM
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#3 |
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: northern Wisconsin
Posts: 2,787
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+1
If you can get under an inch with any lightweight, carbine style rifle, why mess with it? I'm currently shopping for an RS and will be tickled pink to get that kind of accuracy when I find one.
Last edited by North country gal; June 6th, 2012 at 06:05 AM.
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June 6th, 2012, 06:32 AM
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#4 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SE Washington state
Posts: 118
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I'm not a big believer in the Hick's in the first place, but I suspect that it will have far less value in a mannlicher stocked rifle than it does with the other variations of the No. 1
if it will shoot 0.8 inches this is definitely a case of "If it ain't broke -don't fix it!" I wouldn't even bed the thing if it hasn't already been done - you never know how that might change things. Where it is already shooting sub-MOA the chances are that any change could be for the worse just as easily as it could be for the better.
Enjoy it as is and count yourself lucky that someone else has already done a good deal of the load development work for you.
Dave
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June 6th, 2012, 11:58 AM
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#5 |
Join Date: May 2010 Location: At the Range
Posts: 149
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Hi jsgwin,
I agree with the others that if your getting under 1 inch groups with your # 1 RSI it's more than good enough for big game hunting. I have the same # 1 RSI in 30-06 as yours, I no longer shoot it because of medical reasons but when I was shooting it I could get very consistent 1 inch 5 shot groups with it at 100 yds, and once in awhile just under 1 inch, but if you enjoy shooting like I do I see nothing wrong with trying to get an RSI or any other hunting rifle to shoot like a target rifle, if you like to shoot, getting a rifle like an RSI to shoot better than what most guys think it should is the fun part.
Non shooters may not get that part.
The important thing is that your having fun trying to get your RSI to shoot into one small hole. No matter what some say the barrel on a # 1 needs some upward pressure on it. The barrel shank length on a # 1 is less than an inch and usually needs some additional support about 12 inches in front of the receiver.
Remember this is not a bolt action rifle with a one piece stock and a long barrel shank. I've proven this many times over time, the Hicks Accurizer and other forend tricks that put pressure and support the barrel work on most # 1's but not as good on the RSI because of the forend being attached at the front.
I don't know what has been done to your # 1 RSI but do know two things that will help you get very tight groups, one is a good trigger and the other is a light weight speed hammer and spring, the hammer is very important, the factory hammer and spring are way to heavy for the job it has to do and causes muzzle jump.
Here's a simple test you can try, put an empty case in the chamber, set you gun on a good pair of sand bags, line up your cross hairs on a target 100 yds down range, do not hold the gun tight, there's no reason to, it's an empty shell, squeeze the trigger, most times the cross hairs will jump 1 + inches on the target, that of course is not good for accurcy, install a light weight speed hammer and spring, do the same test and there will be just about no jump.
This test works better with a hi power scope because it's easer to see the muzzle jump, but if your careful you will see the muzzle jump even with a lower power scope. Remember, just because you don't see the jump that does not mean it's not jumping, the gun will jump even without a scope, it's just harder to see without a scope.
Never stop trying different things to get better accurcy, it's not so much about how much accurcy you need as it is about just wanting more than you need.
Ruger # 1 Guy
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June 6th, 2012, 06:29 PM
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#6 |
Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Arizona
Posts: 6
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This is jsgwin - I had to register another user name because I can't remember my password and can't find a way to request it.
Anyway, I agree with all of you. I posted this thread late last night and really hadn't thought it through. .8 MOA is more than sufficient for this rifle and it's intended use and for how I will use it also. That being so, I found another page of the previous owner's loading notes and got amazing news. He says that using 52 gr IMR 4064, Sierra 150gr sp or hpbt with an OAL of 3.200 he got 2671 - 2755 fps and .24" - 1.0" groups at 100 yards (3-shot groups) shooting from a bench rest, of course. That, to me, is amazing news. As soon as I can I'll recreate that load and see how it goes for me.
On a side note: I've shot a few of his other rifles and a TC contender. Every one of them had the lightest triggers I've ever felt. This No. 1, though, has I would guess more like a 3lb pull. I have to wonder why. That brings up another question. Have any of you used any of the aftermarket triggers available? I was looking at one on the eabco website and it looks pretty intersting. The factory trigger should suit me fine but I have to wonder about other possiblities.
Thanks again for your input.
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June 6th, 2012, 07:14 PM
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#7 |
Join Date: May 2011 Location: Mountain Brook, Al
Posts: 111
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I found the best accuracy from my 30-06 RSI was with heavy-for-caliber bullets; 180 Sierra Pro Hunter with H4350 were best.
Only mods to mine were adding a scope and a sling.
Of course, I had to buy nicer clothes to wear when I shoot it.
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July 16th, 2012, 04:04 PM
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#8 |
Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Reston VA
Posts: 46
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YMMV but a 3 lb trigger that breaks cleanly w/o creep or overtravel is all I will ever need for hunting and range work in preparation for hunts. Many older #1s imade n the late 70s through the ealry 90s had terrible heavy triggers and, worse, none I got NIB had the same release weight. They varied from @8lbs down to 4 lbs.
I have all of mine adjusted to 3lbs so I do not have to guess at the release point. I never had a trigger or safety fail after such adjustments but I would be very wary of any triggere set a lot lighter than that. Those very light triigers are for bench rifles and you do not see many -- any?-- #1s in that category.
wunbe
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July 16th, 2012, 05:04 PM
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#9 |
Join Date: May 2010 Location: At the Range
Posts: 149
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wunbe wrote:
"a 3 lb trigger that breaks cleanly w/o creep or overtravel is all I will ever need for hunting and range work in preparation for hunts"
I agree, that's all any hunter should need.
But a shooter is a different type of guy.
"Those very light triigers are for bench rifles and you do not see many -- any ?-- # 1's in that category"
Not so wunbe,
You will see bunches # 1's with set triggers on # 1 Rifles in all kinds of shooting events, bench and off hand, but you must go to the right events, try most any ASSRA event and you most likely will see more than a few of them, or go to most any Schuetzen type event you will find a lot of # 1's with set triggers.
All but one of the National Records that have been set with the # 1 on the Ruger # 1 group have been shot with set triggers. I myself use a 2 oz, set trigger on my # 1 that I use for range shooting and some hunting and have never had a problem with it.
Remember, you don't have to set it if you don't want to, when set my trigger is 2 oz., when not set it's 2.5 lb.
Ruger # 1 Guy
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