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Ejector rod housing stud repair

This is a discussion on Ejector rod housing stud repair within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Well, not the best thing to have for a first post but I need some advice. The other day I was shooting my first year ...


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Old January 27th, 2012, 05:43 PM   #1
 
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Ejector rod housing stud repair

Well, not the best thing to have for a first post but I need some advice.

The other day I was shooting my first year production old model flat top 44 mag with some 44 special level loads and my ejector rod housing came off.
It pulled the stud free from the bbl. What is the best way to have this repaired.

Now this gun is not a pristine grade collector but a nice 85% or so shooter but I really don't want to take it to my local smith to have it tig welded in as it will discolor the blueing necessitating a reblue, lowering any value it has. Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks,
Tim



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Old January 27th, 2012, 07:17 PM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trcuda View Post
Well, not the best thing to have for a first post but I need some advice.

The other day I was shooting my first year production old model flat top 44 mag with some 44 special level loads and my ejector rod housing came off.
It pulled the stud free from the bbl. What is the best way to have this repaired.

Now this gun is not a pristine grade collector but a nice 85% or so shooter but I really don't want to take it to my local smith to have it tig welded in as it will discolor the blueing necessitating a reblue, lowering any value it has. Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks,
Tim
Did the screw threads strip, or did it pull the threads out of the barrel? I'd guess the screw lost its threads from being loose. If the screw is what gave up, it should be easy enough to find a bottoming tap and just chase the threads out. (I don't know off-hand what the thread size is)

Find a new screw & you're back in business. Get a set of gunsmithin' screwdrivers so you don't auger out the slots, and tighten the old girl up when she starts gettin' lose!
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Old January 27th, 2012, 07:35 PM   #3
 
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Call Ruger customer service.
I've broken a few on different Blackhawks and every time I call they won't let me pay for the screw; they just send it.
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Old January 28th, 2012, 05:40 AM   #4
 
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Unfortunately this was not just the screw stripping out. There is a bushing that has the internal threads pressed and (I'm assuming) silver soldered into the bbl. This bushing is what pulled from the bbl. The screw was not loose as it was still very tight in the bushing after the whole ejector rod assembly came loose.

Thanks,
Tim
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Old January 28th, 2012, 05:45 AM   #5
 
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Why not shoot it without in the mean time and use a dowel for it. I would send it to ruger for repair or have a smith do it and live with the discoloration.
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Old January 29th, 2012, 03:45 PM   #6
 
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get some Hi-Force 44 solder and flux from Brownells. add in a propane torch and you can fix it yourself with no discoloration to the blueing. I've soldered on a ton of sights with it over the years at the shop and had no problems yet.
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Old January 30th, 2012, 12:51 PM   #7
 
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Thanks for the replys. I may have to get some of the solder from brownells and give it a try.

Tim
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Old January 30th, 2012, 08:07 PM   #8
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IF you have an industrial job...I just retired from a coal fired power plant...LOC-TITE has a vast array of super glue and other industrial adhesives. You could do an internet search to see what they have and maybe get a free sample...you don't need a lot for this job. An auto parts store might also have something of this nature. I'd follow the directions for preparation and try some of this stuff before looking for a gunsmith OR shipping the gun back to RUGER...who will demand to convert your old model gun to the transfer bar mechanism.

I routinely LOC-TITE the ejector rod housing and base pin latch nut with 242 strength. On a heavy use gun, the other bolts get the 242 also.
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