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Cylinder jam

This is a discussion on Cylinder jam within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; I have a brand new never fired Blackhawk in 45 am/45 lc. If I hold the pistol straight out the cylinder binds. If I raise ...


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Old May 16th, 2017, 05:37 PM   #1
 
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Cylinder jam

I have a brand new never fired Blackhawk in 45 am/45 lc. If I hold the pistol straight out the cylinder binds. If I raise it up it will cock. Took out the cyl and installed the base pin. Same thing happens. WhT gives?



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Old May 16th, 2017, 06:24 PM   #2
 
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Take a look and see if the transfer bar is running into the firing pin when you try to cock the pistol. The base pin should be pushing the transfer bar rearward,

Bill
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Old May 16th, 2017, 06:36 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by vilkus View Post
Take a look and see if the transfer bar is running into the firing pin when you try to cock the pistol. The base pin should be pushing the transfer bar rearward,

Bill
This solved the problem when I had the same issue.
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Old May 17th, 2017, 04:59 AM   #4
 
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Yep, gotta be sure the base pin is all the way in and latched in place.

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Old May 17th, 2017, 10:26 AM   #5
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You also have to make sure the little spring loaded plunger located in the rear of the base pin is functional. The purpose of the plunger is to push the transfer bar to the rear so it doesn't stub its toe on the firing pin when you cock the hammer. When the hammer drops, the plunger is pushed in so the transfer bar will strike the firing pin. Plungers often get stuck inside the base pin ... usually from too much oil that dries out and turns gummy. A quick fix is to remove the base pin and soak the plunger end in a container of powder solvent. Operate the solvent wet plunger like a ball point pen until it moves freely under spring tension. If that doesn't work, you may need a new base pin.

Nothing is ever as simple as it sounds. To remove your base pin, you will need to remove the ejector housing mounting screw and pull the ejector housing assembly off.
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Old May 17th, 2017, 01:51 PM   #6
 
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New and unfired lets me guess that if the nipple is stuck, then the gun wasn't cleaned of factory shipping goop.
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Old May 18th, 2017, 08:59 AM   #7
 
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As much as that happens, Ruger should put a separate little note in the box with each revolver telling what causes it. It doesn't just happen to new guns right out of the box.
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Old May 18th, 2017, 11:17 AM   #8
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caryc, You're right .... it's very common for the base pin plunger to stick when pushed in. I have repaired dozens of Ruger SAs over the years with stuck base pin plungers and in just about every case, the owner had hosed the base pin down with oil, then the oil aged and turned into gumbo. The plunger works perfectly without oil but some people think guns are like farm machinery and have to be dripping wet with oil. In most cases, the plunger will loosen up and start working again using the technique I posted above. I have run into a few Ruger SAs where the factory crimp released, causing the plunger and spring to launch into the unknown. Of course a new base pin is needed to get the gun working properly.
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Old June 5th, 2017, 05:50 PM   #9
 
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caryc, You're right .... it's very common for the base pin plunger to stick when pushed in. I have repaired dozens of Ruger SAs over the years with stuck base pin plungers and in just about every case, the owner had hosed the base pin down with oil, then the oil aged and turned into gumbo. The plunger works perfectly without oil but some people think guns are like farm machinery and have to be dripping wet with oil. In most cases, the plunger will loosen up and start working again using the technique I posted above. I have run into a few Ruger SAs where the factory crimp released, causing the plunger and spring to launch into the unknown. Of course a new base pin is needed to get the gun working properly.
Made me laugh!

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Old June 6th, 2017, 05:33 AM   #10
 
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. . . some people think guns are like farm machinery and have to be dripping wet with oil.
Hey, I resemble that remark!

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Old June 6th, 2017, 08:15 AM   #11
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Gearhead Jim, It may be funny but it is also very true. I would estimate at least 50% of the guns that came into my shop for repairs were "excessive oil related". Honestly, I was an oil junkie until I went to gunsmith school. It was there where I learned when oil ages, it changes from a lubricant that reduces friction to a gummy mess that increases friction. This applies to virtually all guns and is amplified by time and cold temperatures.

Short war story .... I sold a used Remington 700 BDL 308 to a customer. It was in near new condition, worked perfect, and was very accurate. The new buyer took it to the range for test firing then took it home and cleaned it. He literally hosed the bolt with oil. A few weeks later he went on a deer hunt and got the "perfect shot" .... a nice buck standing broadside at 100 yards. When he pulled the trigger on that cold morning, the firing pin in the bolt went forward with a very sluggish thunk ... no bang, just a slow motion thunk. Bambi ran off and needless to say, the customer was mad as hell and promptly returned the rifle .... blaming me of course. I examined the rifle in his presence and pointed out the gummy mess in the bolt. It was so bad that even at normal temperature, the gun would not fire. I ran the bolt in my kerosene filled ultrasonic cleaner for a couple minutes then blew off the kerosene with an air compressor. When I put the bolt back in the gun and dry fired .... the firing pin thrust forward with authority and produced a sharp snap. No repairs other than removing the oil. A little training on proper lubrication was conducted after the successful dry fire.

A similar scenario repeated itself many times with all sorts of rifles, pistols, revolvers, and shotguns. I called it the "EOR" syndrome (excessive oil related).

Last edited by Iowegan; June 6th, 2017 at 08:18 AM.
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