f> Diagram for 3 screw old model Blackhawk - Ruger Forum

Ruger Forum

Diagram for 3 screw old model Blackhawk

This is a discussion on Diagram for 3 screw old model Blackhawk within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Hope this helps some one, and pops up on a search some day Took a parts diagram for an old model super black hawk, 3 ...


Go Back   Ruger Forum > Pistol & Revolver Forum > Ruger Single Action

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes

Old April 19th, 2017, 09:11 AM   #1
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
Diagram for 3 screw old model Blackhawk

Hope this helps some one, and pops up on a search some day

Took a parts diagram for an old model super black hawk, 3 screws. Added the name next to parts, to make discussion easier. Plus some notes
Remove the grip frame screws first. Leave the pivot screws in on side, so you can see how it looks , plus you may not want to remove everything.
When removing rear of grip frame note there is a pawl spring and plunger on the side of the trigger. It may fly out. Careful putting back in.
Note the edge on top of main strut that goes towards gun.
Cylinder latch pivot spring goes in front hole. You will notice spring is not long enough to hook otherwise. One arm holds latch down, other hooks into frame. Cylinder latch goes in first, then spring. Drawing makes it look opposite.
If you got a loose gate, remove grip frame, and tighten the screw under gate. This bugged me for years, didnít know how easy it was.


Spring latch rises locking cylinder when fully cocked.
Pawl should drop towards grip, and then move towards barrel to lock cylinder when cocked, also turning cylinder
Main spring strut pin came out. Not a big deal. Put strut in vise, push base n with screw driver or whatever, and slide pin in. It may be harder depending on your spring.

Note base pin has cut out for base pin. My super Blackhawk also had cutout so it could lay closer to barrel. My Blackhawk does not. SBH require removing ejector housing, 1 screw, to remove base pin.
Attached Images
File Type: png Ruger Super Black Hawk old model.png (272.1 KB, 47 views)



Berserker is online now  
Advertisements
Old April 19th, 2017, 09:43 AM   #2
Moderator
 
Bonk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,262
Bonk is a name known to allBonk is a name known to allBonk is a name known to allBonk is a name known to allBonk is a name known to allBonk is a name known to all
Nice work. Thanks.
Bonk is offline  
Old April 19th, 2017, 09:46 AM   #3
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Mountain View, Kansas
Posts: 109
KidVermin is on a distinguished road
Good idea.
There are several new Ruger SA owners on here where this might be helpful. My only loose screw has been the one securing the ejector rod housing.
KidVermin is offline  
 
Old April 19th, 2017, 10:05 AM   #4
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
I get lots of loose screws. All the time. Was a bit of old thread sealer in there too.
Berserker is online now  
Old April 19th, 2017, 10:31 AM   #5
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: US
Posts: 23
redford1 is on a distinguished road
Thanks I need that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
redford1 is online now  
Old April 19th, 2017, 11:33 AM   #6
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
I was intimidated by rights because little is exposed. Unlike S&W with side covers.
Berserker is online now  
Old April 19th, 2017, 06:15 PM   #7
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: California
Posts: 1,924
Hondo44 will become famous soon enoughHondo44 will become famous soon enough
Good job.

You may want to re-label that schematic to:

"3 Screw Old Model Blackhawk & Single Six with Transfer Bar Retrofit"

It may get the point across but may confuse newbies and they're the ones who need it the most.

Note: "Cyl latch sprin (mis-spelled) pivot (I would add 'screw' here)"
Hondo44 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2017, 08:40 PM   #8
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
Someday I will open my R Blackhawk and compare to my original SBH. I just want to learn correct words, and talk back and forth.

Last night was the first time having SA apart. I have had covers off S&W, but they are pretty simple. Need to hit the cover, nor pry. I learned that aftetward. But I can't see any damage.

I have started keeping a note book for next time.
Berserker is online now  
Old April 19th, 2017, 08:45 PM   #9
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
I'd like to some day do a better on of the insides and how they go together. The drawing g lacks there. Like showing latch spring above latch in drawing.


Like more of an exploded auto motive parts diagram that shows the order a little better. Maybe zoom in. I'll probably sketch some notes in my book on holes for what, and springs
Berserker is online now  
Old April 20th, 2017, 04:43 AM   #10
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,273
Ale-8(1) will become famous soon enough
Might also be worth noting that the trigger and base pin shown are for the "converted" version (not "reconditioned").

Perhaps show the "original" parts where they belong and a separate view, off to the side, of the "conversion parts" including the transfer bar. There is a difference in the cylinder latches as well, but perhaps not as easily shown.

"When removing rear of grip frame note there is a pawl spring and plunger on the left side of the hammer."

"Cylinder latch rises locking cylinder when fully cocked."

"Note base pin has cut out for base pin latch."

Good first effort, though.


Last edited by Ale-8(1); April 20th, 2017 at 04:50 AM.
Ale-8(1) is online now  
Old April 20th, 2017, 05:08 AM   #11
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
I just took a drawing from a supplier. I erased the numbers. So unless I can find one different, thats it.

What is the difference between reconditioned and converted? I thought they were the same. They put an R on it when they put in the transfer bar.

The drawing shows the pawl spring on left. The note was just so it doesn't get dropped or go flying.

Someday if I edit it, I will take care of mispellings. But unless they are misleading, I just don't give a damn.



I did a screen print, and pasted it into paint. Erased alot of the numbers and stuff. Then just added text. Always hated going to the bottom of the page or next page on some websites for the name. Like I said wanted a way to converse and use correct names.


I did one for my 1894. Not much their. Maybe will do one for S&W. The single actions have alot of parts and captive pieces, so I found it interesting.

A guy could do this, and make notes as he takes his gun apart, for next time. Such this goes that way, this goes in first, ect.
Berserker is online now  
Old April 20th, 2017, 10:43 AM   #12
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,273
Ale-8(1) will become famous soon enough
Converted only means that the "safety conversion" parts were installed and the frame was stamped with the R.

Reconditioned can mean anything . . . replacing faulty parts, refinishing, etc . . . and will usually carry the R stamp because Ruger won't do any work on an Old Model without also adding the "safety" parts.

If you have a gun with an R stamp you really don't know what has been done to it.

"The drawing shows the pawl spring on left." Correct, but it's adjacent to the hammer, nowhere near the trigger. Just being more precise.

"Like I said wanted a way to converse and use correct names." Good. Thus a couple of my comments.

As I said, good initial effort. My comments are not intended as criticism.

Ale-8(1) is online now  
Old April 20th, 2017, 05:37 PM   #13
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
Looking at my blackhawk, 3 screw, the base pin is notched all the way around, to catch the pin latch. I have wondered if I failed to turn it down on SBH, and that is why it came loose.

I will question Belt Mountain, unless someone has a reason not, for only notching one side.


No progress on SBH. Hoping pawl spring helps. Will be here next week. Though I a not convinced.

Last edited by Berserker; April 21st, 2017 at 05:27 AM. Reason: base not belt
Berserker is online now  
Old April 21st, 2017, 05:00 AM   #14
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,273
Ale-8(1) will become famous soon enough
It's the base pin. There are two types.

One type has a "collar" at the front end next to the gripping grooves, and this collar is meant to properly align the pin against the bottom of the barrel so the latching pin notch is properly aligned for the latch cross-pin.

The other type has no collar, and is grooved all the way around for the latch pin. There is no "incorrect" way to insert it.

New Model base pins, and those that are part of the "safety conversion" have the little spring-loaded plunger in the rear end to keep the transfer bar pushed away from the firing pin.

Yes, trying to inset a "collared" base pin with the collar notch not aligned with the barrel will cause you a lotta grief. Good catch.

Don't be surprised if it sometimes takes a little "futzing around" to get the base pin inserted and properly latched in place. Some are a breeze, while others can occasionally be a little recalcitrant. Spinning the cylinder a little while inserting the base pin sometimes helps.


Last edited by Ale-8(1); April 21st, 2017 at 05:04 AM.
Ale-8(1) is online now  
Old April 21st, 2017, 05:27 AM   #15
 
Berserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 122
Berserker is on a distinguished road
Belt pin was a typo, cause I do have Belt Mountain base pin, but I think I am going back to the stock. When they tilt and jam, they are to tight to get out.

Why they are jamming, is the question.


My pin was coming loose. I was thinking maybe I was inserting it wrong, and not lining the latch up with groove. Going to try the old one, and see, making sure the latch is right. Though I would have though I would have noticed it not going in all the way.


Either BH, no issues, ever. SBH, is not reliable. Hopfully change that. New spring. If that is isn't it will have to take a closer look at parts. They looked ok,

Last edited by Berserker; April 21st, 2017 at 05:31 AM.
Berserker is online now  
Reply

  Ruger Forum > Pistol & Revolver Forum > Ruger Single Action

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Ruger Forum Discussions
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Single Six Parts Diagram FrankHgh Ruger Single Action 1 September 19th, 2016 02:43 PM
early model blackhawk 41 mag 3 screw dlfjr Ruger Single Action 22 April 9th, 2015 08:05 AM
For Trade: Ruger Old Model 3 Screw Blackhawk .30 Carbine McGhee Firearms 0 February 16th, 2015 01:48 PM
Old model Blackhawk 3 screw- 30Carbine cmann Ruger Single Action 14 August 4th, 2014 01:09 PM
Old Model 3 screw Blackhawk .44mag bhazelip Ruger Single Action 21 April 4th, 2013 04:03 AM

Top Gun Sites Top Sites List
Powered by vBulletin 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1
Copyright © 2006 - 2017 Ruger Forum. All rights reserved.
Ruger Forum is a Ruger Firearms enthusiast's forum, but it is in no way affiliated with, nor does it represent Sturm Ruger & Company Inc. of Southport, CT.