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Super Blackhawk stuck half cocked

This is a discussion on Super Blackhawk stuck half cocked within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Good observation, and you are correct. The solution is too use a pointed pin or nail of smaller size than the hole in the spring ...


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Old April 18th, 2017, 02:55 PM   #16
 
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Good observation, and you are correct.

The solution is too use a pointed pin or nail of smaller size than the hole in the spring strut. Tap it into place to compress the spring sufficiently for it to enter and pass into the hole.

Leave the spring and strut in place while removing the grip frame.



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Old April 18th, 2017, 03:15 PM   #17
 
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If I can't pull the hammer back, how do I compress the spring?

I believe you want to cock, compressing spring, stick pin in, fire. Pin will hold spring from relaxing completely.

I am I missing something?

Will go look at it.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 03:21 PM   #18
 
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At half cock, my old model allows the hole in the strut to partly show so I can start the point pin in the hole.

If that's not possible, clamp the grip frame upside down in a padded vise. With one hand, push down on the spring seat with screwdriver to expose enough of the hole to start the pointed pin. It will take a little ingenuity.

No not a common problem if that's what it is. Old model hammer plungers are larger than the new model part.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 03:28 PM   #19
 
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If you have to, just remove grip frame and let the spring go free.

Here's 3 ways to remount the spring:

3 easy ways to replace hammer spring and spring perch at this site: Rugers-spring.html
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Old April 18th, 2017, 04:27 PM   #20
 
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Got most of it apart. Loosening the frame screws allowed me to pull hammer back and get pin in.

I had to stick a brass pin in and wiggle very darn hard back and forth and out, to get the pin out, so I could get the cylinder out.

Is the problem their? Can the cylinder not be parallel with barrel? Maybe use feeler gauges?

Earlier I did have a high primer, that I had to pull hard on hammer to get it revolve.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:10 PM   #21
 
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I take it that the hammer plunger was ok and moved freely?

I seriously doubt the cyl is not parallel. The problem would have showed up long before now.

The hammer does not provide a great deal of leverage, therefore a jammed cyl pin, fouling on front of cyl, too tight of a bar/cyl gap, high primer, etc., can easily prevent hammer cocking. And forcing the hammer puts a great deal of strain on the pawl trying to turn the cyl.

The best way to move a cyl jammed with a high primer is turning it by hand. Rosin will help grip the cyl to turn it. When the cyl pin can be removed, the cyl should be pushed out of the frame, even if the latch is still in the cyl notch.

So yes, it could very well be the jammed cyl pin or an extra tight custom cyl pin. I never recommend extra tight fitting cyl pins because they can negatively affect accuracy. A production revolver as opposed to a custom precision built gun is designed to work best with a little 'play' to allow the forcing cone in the barrel to do its job of centering the chamber and bullet in the barrel.

The best way to remove a stuck cyl pin is driving it out with lots of lubrication, from the rear thru the hammer channel.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:20 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
The most likely problem is that the cyl latch actuating plunger mounted in the hammer base has bent or snapped. A simple part replacement.

D]
I did not find the
Cylinder Latch Spring,Cylinder Latch Spring Plunger. Not sure if they fell out, or missing. You never know with a used gun. Someone worked on trigger, so it has been apart.

What does this effect?


I just ordered from Midway, spent enough to get free shipping too. Darn it.




Midway has a better drawing then what Ruger or what I have in my files

https://www.midwayusa.com/general.mv...uger_blackhawk
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:25 PM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
I take it that the hammer plunger was ok and moved freely?

I seriously doubt the cyl is not parallel. The problem would have showed up long before now.

The hammer does not provide a great deal of leverage, therefore a jammed cyl pin, fouling on front of cyl, too tight of a bar/cyl gap, high primer, etc., can easily prevent hammer cocking. And forcing the hammer puts a great deal of strain on the pawl trying to turn the cyl.

The best way to move a cyl jammed with a high primer is turning it by hand. Rosin will help grip the cyl to turn it. When the cyl pin can be removed, the cyl should be pushed out of the frame, even if the latch is still in the cyl notch.

So yes, it could very well be the jammed cyl pin or an extra tight custom cyl pin. I never recommend extra tight fitting cyl pins because they can negatively affect accuracy. A production revolver as opposed to a custom precision built gun is designed to work best with a little 'play' to allow the forcing cone in the barrel to do its job of centering the chamber and bullet in the barrel.

The best way to remove a stuck cyl pin is driving it out with lots of lubrication, from the rear thru the hammer channel.
I can't remember if I just push the cyliner hard sideways. When I had high primer. I probably pulled a little to hard on hammer too.


After all the trouble I had getting the pin out, I am not sure if it is so great. Seems everyone says you should put one in. Though I wonder if I had it latched in correctly. It did come forward a few times. My first single action.


My BH has never given me a day of trouble. Not sure if more vibrations in SBH, or you buy something used you don't know.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:27 PM   #24
 
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I doubt there's anything wrong with the gun, used or not.

The parts I'm referring to are #s 31, 32, and 33. They can not fall out unless broken. The cyl latch would not work if they were left out.

https://www.midwayusa.com/general.mv...uger_blackhawk

If you can't get the cyl pin moving freely, chuck up in a pwer drill and polish it with 1500 grit paper or very fine crocus cloth.

If it locks up again, check the bar/cyl gap. After shooting a couple of cylinders full, parts expand from the heat. If that happens, the gap is too tight. Look for rub marks on the front face of the cyl. Slightly relieve the end of the barrel .001" or .002".

Last edited by Hondo44; April 18th, 2017 at 05:42 PM.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:27 PM   #25
 
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To be clear, I had problems before the belt mountain pin. I think it was just it coming loose, but I can't say for sure, its been over a few years.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:29 PM   #26
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
The parts I'm referring to are #s 31, 32, and 33. They can not fall out unless broken. The cyl latch would not work if they were left out.

https://www.midwayusa.com/general.mv...uger_blackhawk
I haven't got the hammer out, only the trigger and frame.



What does 8 and 9 do? Either they flew out or they were not there.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:33 PM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berserker View Post
What does 8 and 9 do? Either they flew out or they were not there.
That schematic is for the NEW MODEL BH.

You have an OLD MODEL BH, I believe.

Your gun doesn't use part 8 or 9 in that schematic.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:40 PM   #28
 
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But the hammer plunger/ cyl latch actuater is the same design for old models.

Midway has no old model schematics.

See my post 24, I revised it.

Last edited by Hondo44; April 18th, 2017 at 05:51 PM.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:43 PM   #29
 
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Here's an exploded view of an Old Model Blackhawk 3-Screw .357 magum:



The cylinder catch plunger and spring cannot be seen in this view because they are still attached to the other side of the hammer.

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Old April 18th, 2017, 05:56 PM   #30
 
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Here's an Old Model schematic that I scanned:



It's as clear as I could get it.

Hondo - No argument with anything you stated!

Just givin' Berserker a little visual aid...


Last edited by Hossbreed44; April 18th, 2017 at 05:58 PM.
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