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What can be done with this?

This is a discussion on What can be done with this? within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover , clean the metal with it , pay special attention to rusted areas. The stuff will remove light ...


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Old March 11th, 2017, 07:53 AM   #16
 
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Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover , clean the metal with it , pay special attention to rusted areas. The stuff will remove light surface rust but it leaves the blue finish , nothing will remove the pits except a total rebluing job.
Be careful with 0000 steel wool , it will remove the blued finish. Copper wool is better.
I would do the Turtle wax , touch up with cold blue, wax the metal ( a good auto wax will do ) and go shooting.
A police trade in revolver I purchased was in sad shape , like yours, but after using the TWCP and RR on it , it looked a whole lot better. Got rid of all the light surface rust, the light pitting is still there but touched it up with cold blue and waxed it looks nice.
Gary




Last edited by gwpercle; March 11th, 2017 at 07:56 AM.
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Old March 11th, 2017, 09:51 AM   #17
 
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You could have it restored for lots of money, have the frame sandblasted for not much money, or just shoot it as it is. Depends how much money you want to spend, really.

If it were mine, I think I'd just shoot it.
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Old March 11th, 2017, 12:20 PM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruger 220 swift View Post
NO, don`t go for any safety (transfer bar) upgrade. If you ever want to sell it, that`s the first question a buyer will ask. Is it still a 3 clicker?
Ruger returns the original parts so you can "unconvert" it if you desire.

If you send a gun to Ruger for any work at all, you have to agree to accept the conversion . . .no charge, however.

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Old March 11th, 2017, 07:55 PM   #19
 
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Just an additional thought, if you decide to restore it there's a great college level gunsmith school in Trinidad that might be interested in the project.
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Old March 12th, 2017, 04:45 AM   #20
 
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All safety is a trade off and is always a risk / pleasure/ reward scenario.

A truck with static traction is safest. the safety manager at the company will win countless awards for how safe his fleet is. Then he will be called into a meeting and be told the company is closing because it is broke.

The trucks with static traction were very safe but since they were not moving they earned no money.
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Old March 12th, 2017, 05:48 AM   #21
 
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I will jump on the band wagon here also. It would look very nice if you had Ruger refinish it (not sure if they could help the pitting or not). But I tend to agree, clean it up, use some cold blue and just enjoy it.

Ruger should send back the parts after the conversion. So if desired you should be able to put it back to original. But I would check with them before sending it in.
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Old March 13th, 2017, 11:23 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonnie In Colorado View Post
Actually, I was thinking about doing something along those lines I hadn't thought about the .327 though. Now, I'm intrigued.

How about a 5 shot .327 with a birds head grip?
It can be a 6 shot, even if it's a 327 Fed Mag.

This project was a two step conversion; 1st from 22 to 32 H&R Mag, and reamed to 327 Mag.
Started with a 1959 vintage 22 Mag ‘only’ Single Six: conversion to .32 H&R Mag with a factory barrel and cyl , cost $180. Reamer, $80. Gun, $200 some years ago. Total cost, $460. If you sell the .22 barrel and cylinder some of the cost can be recouped.
Functions perfectly, and have since sighted in the front sight for elevation, re-shaped to a quick draw to a quick draw ramp, serrated with a 40 LPI checkering file to math a factory sight, and blue it.





Had to enlarge the loading gate chute for the larger cases.



In these two shots, you can see where I plugged and re-drilled to lower the firing pin and recoil plate for center fire.






There's a firing pin recoil plate retaining pin thru the frame under the rear sight on the left side of frame. On NMs it's right end exits in the loading trough. Open loading gate and drive it out to the left. Now you can drive out the firing pin, spring and recoil plate from the hammer channel. Make a plug .001” larger than the size of the recoil plate with a smaller diameter on the firing pin end to fill the hole in the hammer channel. Take dimensions of the hole because you’re going to drill another one just like it. Replicate the retaining pin groove on the side of your plug that you'll see on the side of the recoil plate. Drive the 'plug' into the recoil plate hole aligning the retaining pin groove with the retaining pin hole thru the frame.

Now with a rod that's a snug fit in the barrel bore and a sharp point on one end, drop it into the bore pointy end first and center punch a dot on the recoil shield (breechface) at the back of the cyl window.
Pull the barrel and drill a hole the same size of the original for the rear end of the firing pin all the way thru the hammer channel. Use a Letter 'J' drill to counter bore the firing pin hole to the depth that you measured above. About a third of the plug will be drilled out as well.

Install the firing pin, then the spring and the recoil plate being careful to align the retaining pin groove with the retaining pin hole thru the frame. Reinstall the firing pin retaining pin.

On OM guns the firing pin retaining pin is located too high to retain the recoil plate in its lowered location. Just reinstall it to retain the plug. The 'J' drill provides a press fit for the recoil plate and every time a shot is fired the recoil plate is driven backwards so a retaining pin is not really needed. But for those that like a belt and suspenders too, a new retaining pin hole can be drilled thru the frame in the location of the NMs. Use the same entrance hole on the left side of the frame. Install the original retaining pin into the original hole from left side first and sink it below the surface of the frame. Now using the same entrance hole on the left side of the frame, install the new pin in thru the newly drilled hole in the frame from the left side and polish flush to frame.

It is true all the 'professional' conversions use a longer custom cylinder. But loaded factory cartridges are only .003-4” longer than the factory 32 H&R cylinder. And believe it or not they function perfectly by taking advantage of the barrel/cylinder gap spacing. After reaming and shooting my first five H&R Mag cylinders to .327 I've yet to experience any problems. If one reloads with heavier bullets the extra length is usually at the base of the bullet and goes in the case rather than a longer nose. Even if the nose is a bit longer, the bullets can be seated in the cases a bit deeper so they don't exceed an overall cartridge length of 1.460" or your maximum cylinder chamber length. I know it might be counterintuitive but as they say, truth can be stranger than fiction.
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Old March 14th, 2017, 04:36 AM   #23
 
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Negotiate a good price and go from there.

It's never going to be a mint 99%+ gun so I don't foresee the collectors value ever being high enough to really matter. If you re-finish the gun it will never be an original perfect gun and if you leave it as is, it will never command top price.

If you want it for potential re-sale value, run away. You're going to lose money.
If you want it because you like it and want a good shooter, negotiate a good price and pay what you can live with.

You can buy it and shoot it as-is. Or, you can buy it, re-finish it and shoot it. I wouldn't buy it as an investment.
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Old March 14th, 2017, 08:54 AM   #24
 
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The question is what the final use will be..
I have a beautiful very early S/W model 36 with the desirable 3" bbl and a square butt...a gun lots of folks want..but...it has some freckleing where the barrel meets the frame...hard to see but it's there..no pits.

I cleaned it up as best as possible and considered having it blued...so if I get it blued some collectors would not want it and it doesn't have the box anyway, etc, etc, etc..pretty soon I have a money pit on my hands.

My goal was just to have it cause I like it....it shoots fine like it is and will never be a collector's item.

Your revolver is a shooter..it will never be anything else...if you want it blued and converted for your pleasure..do it...but don't ever consider it an "investment" as it's always going to be short in collector quality.

Enjoy it for what it is...your gun, however you want to have it for yourself.
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Old March 14th, 2017, 09:26 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
It can be a 6 shot, even if it's a 327 Fed Mag.

This project was a two step conversion; 1st from 22 to 32 H&R Mag, and reamed to 327 Mag.
Started with a 1959 vintage 22 Mag ‘only’ Single Six: conversion to .32 H&R Mag with a factory barrel and cyl , cost $180. Reamer, $80. Gun, $200 some years ago. Total cost, $460. If you sell the .22 barrel and cylinder some of the cost can be recouped.
Functions perfectly, and have since sighted in the front sight for elevation, re-shaped to a quick draw to a quick draw ramp, serrated with a 40 LPI checkering file to math a factory sight, and blue it.





Had to enlarge the loading gate chute for the larger cases.



In these two shots, you can see where I plugged and re-drilled to lower the firing pin and recoil plate for center fire.





VERY NICE end result Hondo.
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Old March 14th, 2017, 09:28 AM   #26
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If the price is right,, grab it and dont look back.

All kinda projects could be done, or NOT done with it.
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Old March 14th, 2017, 06:55 PM   #27
 
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Lonnie In Colorado,

Something to consider:


Ruger cost to refinish SA revolver = $80 and $30 return shipping.
Any old model returned to Ruger for any reason will get the transfer bar safety retrofit whether you want it or not, it’s their safety policy.

But you WANT to REQUEST the retrofit safety transfer bar system. WHAT????
Yes and here's why:

You WANT to request the retrofit safety transfer bar system because the shipping cost to Ruger is the killer. About $85 for an individual to ship them the gun. Or most local dealers will ship it for you, and it’s somewhat less for an FFL to ship it.

So here's what you can do: call Ruger 1 (603) 865-2442 and request a transfer bar safety upgrade which is free INCLUDING shipping both ways. They'll email you a free shipping label. Tell them you want the gun to be refinished while they have it.

Many send their gun without the internal parts because although Ruger will return them, some people want to be sure to get them back. Understand: the gun itself is not modified or machined in any way for the safety retrofit. When you get the gun back in 10 to 12 days at the most, you can just swap out the transfer bar safety parts and put the originals back in. Total cost to you $80.

The re-blue will be done correctly w/o over buffing, etc., and you’ll get it back in 10 days. You can’t beat their service and refinish, or even come close to it anywhere!

Actually Ruger's reblue jobs are better than original. It's not done by the regular production people who are cranking out new guns as fast as they can. But it is done on the same type machinery though, so all the surfaces have the same polishing techniques and contours as new factory guns; the secret of a restoration vs. a refinish! AND any flaws or sloppiness from the original factory polish is corrected and the gun has the nicest polish of any originals. They all seem to come back with their 'flagship' Super BH best polish.

If the gun is seriously pitted, they may not be able to get them all out if too deep, but they'll do their best. Yours has no serious pitting, they'll get them all out easily.

Here's my factory refinished Hawkeye. I added the stainless steel grip frame in place of the aluminum alloy original grip frame:
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Old March 14th, 2017, 08:21 PM   #28
 
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Sounds like a good way to get my SS magnum refinished. I didn't realize it was so reasonable.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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Old March 14th, 2017, 09:57 PM   #29
 
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Now Hondo has it nailed. Sounds like a winner there.
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Old March 16th, 2017, 09:05 AM   #30
 
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Thanks, Honda! I think I know what I'm going to do. I'm going to take your advice and send it off to Rutgers. When I get it back I'm just going to shoot the crap out of it
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