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Problem at range with NM Super Blackhawk

This is a discussion on Problem at range with NM Super Blackhawk within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Took my son's New Model Super Blackhawk (vintage 1985) to the range this morning ... started having a problem where it would go "click" instead ...


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Old February 27th, 2017, 04:55 PM   #1
 
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Problem at range with NM Super Blackhawk

Took my son's New Model Super Blackhawk (vintage 1985) to the range this morning ... started having a problem where it would go "click" instead of "bang", usually one or two times per cylinder full. After the sixth trigger pull, I ejected the rounds and found that there was no indentation at all on the primers of the live rounds. I suspected some problem with the transfer bar or firing pin as I couldn't figure out any other reason for the untouched primers, since I watched the hammer fall six times.

When I got it home, I was working the action and trying to figure out what was happening. Finally (duh) I noticed that the cylinder would rotate fine as long as I cocked it with the muzzle down, but was not rotating when being cocked with the muzzle higher than level. Turns out the pawl was just flopping around and was only engaging the cylinder when gravity helped it engage (muzzle down).

The "click" I was getting was apparently a second strike on the previously fired cartridge, which explained the ones with untouched primers as the cylinder was not rotating full circle, even though the trigger was being pulled six times.

I looked at the parts diagram and determined there could be problem with the pawl spring or pawl spring plunger ... so I took it all apart. I had never done that, but there were instructions in the manual so I did it. Sure enough, I found that the pawl spring plunger was frozen in the tunnel ... I had to tap it through with a small punch, then clean the tunnel with toothpicks. Put it back together and it all works great!

I was aided by Ruger's disassembly and assembly videos that I watched on YouTube. They were very helpful.

Moral of the story ... don't be afraid to take them apart! It can be done.



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Old February 27th, 2017, 05:08 PM   #2
 
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Glad that worked out.
Nothing worse then a click when there should be a bang.
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Old February 27th, 2017, 11:31 PM   #3
 
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I don't understand how you got by the live rounds.

Because once the cyl didn't advance forward one chamber and the hammer went down on the already fired case, did you cock the hammer twice in a row with muzzle down, without pulling the trigger in between?

Here's a short cut not included in Ruger videos or instructions that you might find helpful sometime:

When JUST NEEDING to remove the hammer and/or pawl, recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar.

Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension. Piece o cake.
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Old February 28th, 2017, 02:05 AM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
I don't understand how you got by the live rounds.

Because once the cyl didn't advance forward one chamber and the hammer went down on the already fired case, did you cock the hammer twice in a row with muzzle down, without pulling the trigger in between?

Here's a short cut not included in Ruger videos or instructions that you might find helpful sometime:

When JUST NEEDING to remove the hammer and/or pawl, recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar.

Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension. Piece o cake.

Slick trick Hondo44!



Here Kitty Kitty
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Old February 28th, 2017, 04:00 AM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
I don't understand how you got by the live rounds
I don't think I got by them ... I think I didn't get to them. I was cocking the hammer six times, pulling the trigger six times ... then unloading. If the cylinder advanced only four times, then I never got to the last two. I didn't pay attention to the order of the live rounds in the unload sequence since I was thinking about the transfer bar, and no doubt was brain-addled from the concussion of .44 Magnum! Thanks for the tip on removing the hammer without the trigger ... will come in handy next time!
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