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Base Pin latch question

This is a discussion on Base Pin latch question within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Well after several years and hundreds of rounds the base pin on my 4 5/8" SBH slipped out about an inch three times on me ...


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Old February 17th, 2017, 12:54 PM   #1
 
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Base Pin latch question

Well after several years and hundreds of rounds the base pin on my 4 5/8" SBH slipped out about an inch three times on me last week. Then after a careful cleaning it did it again twice this week.

I went ahead and ordered a new latch assembly and an extra power spring from Brownell's today and decided to take the latch apart to see how hard it was to do. I found that the latch itself is chewed up around the edge badly. It almost looks like it's been knurled for finger grippage.

Apparently I don't have enough posts to attach a link, I'll have to work on that.

I don't know enough about SA revolvers, but should it look like that?



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Old February 17th, 2017, 12:55 PM   #2
 
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Maybe I need ten posts to be eligible for photography?
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Old February 17th, 2017, 12:56 PM   #3
 
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Old February 17th, 2017, 02:17 PM   #4
 
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That's pretty severe battering, but not too unusual. The base pin is a trifle loose and batters the latch assembly under recoil. Need an oversized base pin fitted by your gunsmith.

Bob Wright

P.S. The latch spring had nothing to do with this battering. A locking base pin, with a set screw retainer, helps.

Try this: http://beltmountain.com/colt.htm

Last edited by Bob Wright; February 17th, 2017 at 02:21 PM.
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Old February 17th, 2017, 03:49 PM   #5
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Bob Wright, I agree with your analysis but not your solution. I've yet to see a Ruger that wouldn't work properly with the factory base pin. Here's what I suspect .... the divot in the base pin was not cut quite deep enough when it was made. The made the spring loaded cross pin not fully latch. As many rounds were fired, the cross pin got more and more battered until it finally gave up. I would replace the base pin and latch assembly with factory parts. This should keep the OP going for another couple decades of heavy loads.
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Old February 17th, 2017, 04:09 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
Bob Wright, I agree with your analysis but not your solution. I've yet to see a Ruger that wouldn't work properly with the factory base pin. Here's what I suspect .... the divot in the base pin was not cut quite deep enough when it was made. The made the spring loaded cross pin not fully latch. As many rounds were fired, the cross pin got more and more battered until it finally gave up. I would replace the base pin and latch assembly with factory parts. This should keep the OP going for another couple decades of heavy loads.

You may well be right, but I've experienced the same problem, and factory replacement parts wouldn't cure my problem. So I've turned to Belt Mountain base pins to solve that issue.

Bob Wright
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Old February 17th, 2017, 04:38 PM   #7
 
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Thanks Guys,

I'll probably call Ruger Monday and see if they'll replace the base pin and latch assembly. I've got a latch coming from Brownell's but it looks like a steady diet of full power loads may lead to frequent replacement of same.

This little revolver has rapidly become one of my favorites. This "glitch" has eroded my confidence but not badly. It still shoots like a rifle and carries like a snubby.

Rick
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Old February 17th, 2017, 05:26 PM   #8
 
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get a belt mountain base pin to solve this problem
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Old February 18th, 2017, 12:03 PM   #9
 
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I put a locking base pin and a power spring in the catch of my 44 mag. It was fine until I started shooting bear loads. It doesn't go anywhere now.
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Old February 18th, 2017, 07:53 PM   #10
 
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In every case that Iíve diagnosed, the base pin is not properly locking due to poor fitting or the latch isnít completely tightened down.

To trouble shoot and diagnose the problem:

When released, the latch should return all the way out to the left with or w/o the pin installed. If it doesn't return as far to the left with the pin installed, thatís the dead giveaway that the notch on the cyl pin is not deep enough, or the Super Blackhawk groove (the circular cannelure) is not deep enough, to fully engage the latch. The pin will shoot loose. Some cases take awhile and some shooting before the pin slips.

File the notch deeper or chuck the SBH pins with the groove all the way around, in a power drill and deepen the groove with a small rat tail file.

I don't waste the time or money on a stronger base pin spring or more money and modify the gun with a locking pin, although it's your gun and you should do what you prefer. One can get a mighty sore finger operating the latch with stronger spring, but that's a personal thing.

The cyl pin latch can also be miss-shaped, you can call Ruger parts (336) 949-5200 to request a free new one from Ruger. Or you a new pin free.
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Old February 19th, 2017, 01:48 PM   #11
 
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Hondo44

Thanks for taking the time to type that! I've already got the extra power spring headed this way via USPS. But there's apparently nothing wrong with the old one either. I'd already thought of deepening the groove but it's good to know someone else did it. And how to gauge the proper depth.

Thanks again.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 03:12 PM   #12
 
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The new parts arrived from Brownell's today. I assembled the latch assembly with the extra power spring and made sure that it bottoms out against the frame indicating that the groove in the center pin has enough clearance like Hondo described.
Then off to the range where I put twenty five rounds through it without problem. Ten mid range and fifteen full strength. I then re-disassembled the latch and looked for damage. Not a scratch, put it back together and I'm satisfied that all is good.
I also called Ruger earlier this week and described the issue. The nice lady on the phone agreed to send a complete latch assembly and base pin for $0.00. I should be good to go until I'm over 80.

Last edited by Rick R2; February 25th, 2017 at 06:18 AM.
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Old February 25th, 2017, 07:09 AM   #13
 
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Belt Mountain is the way to go. My old 3-screw Blackhawk used to do that too. Belt Mountain replacement parts fixed that. BTW, I bought my 3-screw 357mag back in 1968 and have fired thousands of rounds thru it.
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