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New Model Blackhawk Trigger Job

This is a discussion on New Model Blackhawk Trigger Job within the Ruger Single Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Want to work on the trigger pull of a new model blackhawk. Got Gary's IBOK for the DA Revolvers (GP100, Super Redhawk, etc). Any info ...


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Old February 16th, 2010, 04:32 PM   #1
 
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New Model Blackhawk Trigger Job

Want to work on the trigger pull of a new model blackhawk. Got Gary's IBOK for the DA Revolvers (GP100, Super Redhawk, etc). Any info anywhere on how to disassemble/reassemble the single action Rugers and perform a trigger job. What type of stone, grit sandpaper, tools etc are needed.



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Old February 16th, 2010, 06:00 PM   #2
 
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New Model Blackhawk Trigger Job

I would start with a simple trigger spring change first! I believe your stock spring is rated at 50oz. Wolff (SP?) makes 40oz and 30oz trigger springs for all the Ruger single actions. Its a simple process. Remove the grips, unhook the trigger spring (both sides), tap the retainer pin out and carefully back the old spring out. Reverse the process for the new spring installation. I have been able to easily drop my trigger pulls down as low as ~2.75lbs this way. Several web sites show this in detail. I would leave the hammer spring alone. Also, dry firing will smooth the pull as well.
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Old February 16th, 2010, 06:26 PM   #3
 
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boblenaere,

I agree with dschoeneman. Before you put stone to steel, get a set of Wolff springs. Kits are available that include a hammer spring, trigger spring, and base pin spring. Or, you can buy the springs individually, but the kit is the best value and does a complete job.

Go to Wollf's web-site to get an idea of what's available, then order from Midway or Brownells. By the way, they are very inexpensive. And, considering the results, more so's the bargain.

I was able to reduce my Blackhawk's trigger pull by half, and the hammer pull considerably, but not to the point of having light hammer strikes. Didn't care for the extra tensioned base pin spring, though, so re-installed the original.

Keep in mind, too, that once you remove metal, it's final.
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Old February 16th, 2010, 08:42 PM   #4
 
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The lighter trigger spring WILL reduce the trigger pull weight but will do NOTHING for creep. Most Ruger triggers NEED a trigger job. If you are not experienced in this task, it is best left to a GOOD gunsmith.

I have either done a trigger job on my Rugers or had a Pistolsmith do mine - each and every one of them. It is money well spent.

FWIW
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Last edited by Dale53; February 19th, 2010 at 08:37 PM. Reason: Correcting poor English...
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Old February 17th, 2010, 02:01 AM   #5
 
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Thanks for the replies. Anyone know of a GOOD gunsmith in the SW Florida area?
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Old February 17th, 2010, 03:37 AM   #6
 
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Has anyone used the gunsmith services at Stonewall Range and Gun Shop in Broadview Heights Ohio??
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Old February 17th, 2010, 06:47 AM   #7
 
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I would recommend, as others have said already, changing out to a 30 oz. Wolff trigger spring first, and boosting the hammer while dry firing about 10 times. That's a $10 solution, and while not as good as a good gunsmith's action job, it might be all you need. The trigger spring swap is also pretty easy to do yourself. Took me about 10 minutes.

I thought my NM Blackhawk needed a trigger job, but after I swapped out the trigger spring and shot it a couple hundred times it is now pretty slick. To put it another way, any accuracy issues are not related to the trigger pull.
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Old February 17th, 2010, 08:39 AM   #8
 
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Just my 2. I have a stock New Model Blackhawk (never done anything to it) and have put about 1000 rounds through it. Now it feels like the action is coated in butter
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Old February 17th, 2010, 08:48 AM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammerdown View Post
I would recommend, as others have said already, changing out to a 30 oz. Wolff trigger spring first, and boosting the hammer while dry firing about 10 times. That's a $10 solution, and while not as good as a good gunsmith's action job, it might be all you need. The trigger spring swap is also pretty easy to do yourself. Took me about 10 minutes.

I thought my NM Blackhawk needed a trigger job, but after I swapped out the trigger spring and shot it a couple hundred times it is now pretty slick. To put it another way, any accuracy issues are not related to the trigger pull.
After thinking about this a bit I think this is good advice and will go this route first. No accuracy problem with the pistol. After reaming cylinder throats and playing with powders and different loads it shoots a 6 shot grouping just under 2 inches at 25 yards (may even shoot better with a little tweaking). I'm very pleased with the accuracy and the gun. So much so I plan on picking up a 44 special soon. Grips I'm not too crazy about. In the process of trying the Hogue Monogrip (just received from the UPS guy yesterday). Trigger is not bad just wanted to smooth it up a bit. Bob
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Old February 19th, 2010, 03:06 PM   #10
 
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SA are easy to take apart. check out the tech videos at Ruger's website.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 06:25 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vectorak47 View Post
SA are easy to take apart. check out the tech videos at Ruger's website.
You can do it yourself. Make sure you know the parts relationship and go a little stone at a time. Don't change angles.
Dis assembly and re assembly will get you very familiar with your weapon. If you go too far parts are available at Numrich (gun parts corp)
I trigger job all my Ruger SA's
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Old December 30th, 2011, 05:49 AM   #12
 
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Super Blackhawk trigger job...

Does anybody know where can i get the Wolf trigger kit in Europe (Germany). Or does anybody know a gunsmith that works with Rugers in Europe.

Thanks
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 05:02 AM   #13
 
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Trigger job

And one more question what kind of specilized tools are required or maybe you would recommend that i get before trying to do the trigger job on a Gp 100 or a Super Blackhawk?

Thanks
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 09:01 AM   #14
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Go to BROWNELLS web site. There is a limited amount of tooling available for RUGER single actions...BUT you don't need a lot either. Get the RUGER specific screw driver magna-tip set, the base pin latch tool, and the gate spring compression tool...and a spare gate spring or two for screw-ups! The WOLF spring kits are nice also.

The KUHNHAUSEN (sp?) book for RUGERS is nice, but you can get by with the owners manual. Download the IBOK's here.

REMEMBER to measure twice and cut once. Metal is a lot easier to remove than it is to add!
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 05:22 AM   #15
 
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Try this first. Might make a huge difference:

Poor Boy's Trigger Job
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