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mini 14 gas bushing mod?

This is a discussion on mini 14 gas bushing mod? within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Has anyone modified their mini 14 gas bushing? I prefer not buying a replacement because I like the satisfaction of doing things myself instead of ...


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Old February 17th, 2011, 08:58 AM   #1
 
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mini 14 gas bushing mod?

Has anyone modified their mini 14 gas bushing? I prefer not buying a replacement because I like the satisfaction of doing things myself instead of buying. I want to limit the effective deadly range of thrown brass to a few feet using 55-62 grain loads.
Any help would be appreciated.



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Old February 17th, 2011, 01:30 PM   #2
 
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I went the purchase route, but I have read about guys who inserted a 3/32 roll pin inside the existing bushing to cut down the diameter of the hole.
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Old February 17th, 2011, 04:57 PM   #3
 
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I did the 3/32 nd roll pin in mine and it works great. Save yourself some money and do the roll pin. You will need some tools to shorten the roll pin like a grinder or a dremel. kwg
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Old February 17th, 2011, 06:24 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwg020 View Post
I did the 3/32 nd roll pin in mine and it works great. Save yourself some money and do the roll pin. You will need some tools to shorten the roll pin like a grinder or a dremel. kwg
You'd be the guy I read about. I found the post over at the PU!!!!

I'm using an .049 bushing in mine, with Wilson .45 buffers front and rear. I can literally put an ammo can about 18 - 24" in front and to the right of my Mini and drop the brass in once in a while. The rest travel a little bit forward of that.

Last edited by geigersd; February 17th, 2011 at 06:28 PM.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 06:07 AM   #5
 
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Ever consider an adjustable?
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Old February 18th, 2011, 05:43 PM   #6
 
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I've installed a smaller bushing into my Mini Ranch. A .045 size, purchased from a vendor. A gas bushing should be made of a hard grade of steel, usually drill rod. It's a fairly inexpensive item. I prefer to retain the original design, it's a component that's easy to change.
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Old February 19th, 2011, 07:52 AM   #7
 
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Thanks to all of you for your input, it's greatly appreciated!
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Old February 20th, 2011, 08:54 AM   #8
 
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.045 is too small for reliability. The roll pin makes about a .055 or .060 hole depending on the pin and how you fitted it. I prefer more reliability and will chase the brass. kwg
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Old February 20th, 2011, 03:46 PM   #9
 
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The nice thing about gas bushings is that they are easy to change, should you not care for the results.

I have no problems at all with the reliability of this Ranch Mini, after changing the gas port. It is possible that there can be enough variation from Mini to Mini that some may not like the .045 ID. bushing.

I need to add that my Ranch has been well tuned and modified. My Ranch had a factory gas port bushing which measured .085 ID.

And even with the .045 bushing I still chase the brass 10 feet from the rifle. Sometimes I get a chuckle, as a late comer to the range bench is often not amused with the flying brass.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 07:45 PM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheezengeezer View Post
Ever consider an adjustable?
Yeah, I have, but the price is ridiculous!

So I had thought some day when I'm feeling ambitious, I'll take my gas block off, dig in my parts bin and find a steel carb idle adustment screw, do some drilling and tapping, and make my own adjustable block in my shop.

But the roll pin stop-gap intrigues me . . .
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Old February 21st, 2011, 08:36 PM   #11
 
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I'm not the first to do this. I saw it on PU a couple of years ago and I tried it just last year and liked the results. So, someone out there has been doing this longer than I. kwg
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Old February 26th, 2011, 09:37 AM   #12
 
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The roll pin route is definitely the cheaper of the two, but could require some trial and error if you are looking to tune it ... neat thing is you can readily do the mod, which is much quicker than waiting for your adjustable gas block to arrive. I really like my adjustable, but I am equally satisfied with the roll pin mod as well.


-Ralph.
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Old August 29th, 2013, 01:48 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwg020 View Post
I did the 3/32 nd roll pin in mine and it works great. Save yourself some money and do the roll pin. You will need some tools to shorten the roll pin like a grinder or a dremel. kwg
I am thinking about this to protect the shooters in the next county. I did a search and can't find pics or instructions on the roll pin insertion. I would appreciate some pics or at least a note on the "how to".

Thanks
RC
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Old August 29th, 2013, 06:18 PM   #14
 
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My rifle was ejecting brass more than 30 feet away. I put in the 3/32 roll pin and then the rifle was throwing empties about 20 feet. I next inserted a Wilson 1911 buffer on the rear of the op rod and around the gas tube in the front. I was afraid of reduced reliability when using a full thickness buffer in the front, so I split one down the middle and just used the half thickness buffers in the front and rear. The rifle now ejects about 12-14 feet.I was not really trying for my brass landing a certain distance away, just to make it softer shooting ( not having the op rod slamming into the receiver and the gas block and being harder on the gun). It's much easier to collect my brass for reloading now without having to walk to the next county to get it. I only use full power ammo, XM193 or M855/SS109 and my hand loads with match bullets in military brass are loaded to nearly the same NATO pressure level. It would probably function fine with milder loads like Federal Eagle or Plain Box W-W or REM-UMC 55 gr. "plinking loads", just would eject a few feet closer to the bench. But I can see where one could take this too far. In my opinion, having your brass eject only a few feet is barely going to be reliable enough. That's only a little better than the brass just falling out of the rifle.

Last edited by sandog; September 2nd, 2013 at 07:06 AM.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 06:51 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc229 View Post
I am thinking about this to protect the shooters in the next county. I did a search and can't find pics or instructions on the roll pin insertion. I would appreciate some pics or at least a note on the "how to".

Thanks
RC
Sorry, no pictures. I simply put the bushing on the top of a vice and hit the pin with a hammer. I did remove some metal from the end that went into the bushing first. I tapered it so it would enter easier. I cut off the excess with a bolt cutter and then ground it down level with the bushing. All this hitting and grinding left the edges of the tension pin rough so I used a carbide bit in a drill to take off the rough edges. This left the center hole around .051.

My Mini still throws the brass 12 to 15 feet but not 30 feet. I reload and I reload light (about .222 velocities) and this still lets the rifle operate reliably. If I were shooting GI Ball stuff my guess is the brass would go 20 feet. I only use a buffer on the receiver end.

Just my method. It was not pretty but it worked. Keep in mind most tension pins are hard but slightly springy. kwg
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