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Mini 14 op slide

This is a discussion on Mini 14 op slide within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Hello, the slide is really loose on my mini tactical and can be pulled away from boltnin right conditions. Can I buy a slide from ...


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Old May 14th, 2017, 03:30 AM   #1
 
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Mini 14 op slide

Hello, the slide is really loose on my mini tactical and can be pulled away from boltnin right conditions. Can I buy a slide from midway or ruger, or does it have to be fit. I put the slide from stainless mini and it fit perfectly so I assume a new slide will work. Thanks



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Old May 14th, 2017, 05:44 AM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter07 View Post
Hello, the slide is really loose on my mini tactical and can be pulled away from boltnin right conditions. Can I buy a slide from midway or ruger, or does it have to be fit. I put the slide from stainless mini and it fit perfectly so I assume a new slide will work. Thanks
Hello Scooter.

I'm not sure what you are telling us. Did you switch to a stainless slide? I'm going to assume you are in reference to the op-rod? The slide (channel) is what fits inside of the stock. HOw hard are you pulling on this part? And, are you doing it while it is assembled or apart?

The design requires some "room" around the bolt for it to operate correctly. Pictures help.

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Old May 14th, 2017, 06:14 AM   #3
 
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As you draw the charging handle rearward sometimes the bolt get jammed b/c the op rod is so loose that it slides up into the disassembly notch, when I put the stainless rod on to check if it was the gun or the rod the stainless rid worked perfectly. My question is if I were to buy a new rod to fix this would it have to be fit by ruger or is it just s part change?
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Old May 14th, 2017, 06:41 AM   #4
 
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look at the fir of the trigger guard area to see if it links up tightly.
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Old May 14th, 2017, 07:02 AM   #5
 
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Per Ruger's Exploded Parts Guide for Mini-14 Ranch Rifle, the Op Rod (they call it a Slide Assy), p/n MS23707 Ranch Rifle - blued does not require fitting by Ruger. Per their drawing, only the following parts require fitting at the factory.
  • Barrel
  • Gas Block Top & Bottom (2 pieces)
  • Firing Pin
  • Secondary Sear
  • Trigger
  • Hammer
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Old May 14th, 2017, 04:56 PM   #6
 
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What area of the trigger guard. I think it's just an out of spec op rod/slide assy b/c the other part I tried was not as loose.

I had a case jam the other day and when the bolt got hung up by the loose slide assy it made me think it caused the jam.
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Old May 14th, 2017, 06:21 PM   #7
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Scooter, since you also have a SS op rod, perhaps you can visually compare the two and see if something is missing (broken) on the blued one, or bent. Op rods have a fair amount of slop, but not so much as you describe, so a deficiency should be easily identifiable.

In order to remove the op rod, one has to disassemble the rifle. Step one (after ensuring it is empty), is removal of the trigger group. Same with reassembly (last step). The checking referred to above regarding the trigger housing is to make sure it is properly seated after reassembly. It could just be you properly seated the trigger group when you installed the SS op rod but didn't with the blued one.

Lastly, make sure your recoil spring guide is properly oriented.

Op Rods are available. Numrich (GunPartsCorp) carries them. They'll run you about $85 plus shipping. Midway carries them (about $80) but they're out of stock, Brownells has them in stock for $97. That is why we're trying to nug this out for you before going to the expense of buying one.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted!
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Old May 15th, 2017, 02:13 PM   #8
 
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My guess is, if you are using a stainless op rod on your blued Mini 14, they were not from the same year of manufacture and it could be the tolerances are different or there may be an odd bend in the stainless op rod causing it to come out of the track via the disassembly notch.

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Old May 15th, 2017, 03:18 PM   #9
 
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I got the stainless guide rod on it now to keep it from being so loose. Called ruger explained the issue, they are sending another slide assembly. No questions ask love ruger can!
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Old May 15th, 2017, 04:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter07 View Post
I got the stainless guide rod on it now to keep it from being so loose. Called ruger explained the issue, they are sending another slide assembly. No questions ask love ruger can!
Excellent!
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Old May 15th, 2017, 05:29 PM   #11
 
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Just FYI the trigger guard was seated well. The op rod would have the same problem in both minis, but I could not tell a difference in the rods.

Thank you everyone who posted, ya'll have been very helpful!
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Old May 15th, 2017, 06:01 PM   #12
 
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Might just leave it reminds me of the nightmare sig pistols. Also does the gap on the gas block have to be exactly even?
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Old May 15th, 2017, 06:34 PM   #13
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Might just leave it reminds me of the nightmare sig pistols. Also does the gap on the gas block have to be exactly even?
It should be, otherwise, there may be some accuracy problems. My 583 Tactical was visibly off out of the box. It is a QC problem.

Use a 9/64" hex (Allen) wrench, loosen each of the four bolts a bit, then, using a cross pattern re-tighten a bit at a time. Feeler gauges or something similar is best to ensure uniformity. Gap should be even left and right and fore and aft to approximately equal tightness. If available, use an inch-pound torque wrench with an extended 9/64" hex shaft to 30 inch-pounds. You'll probably need the extended shaft on a torque wrench.driver because the front sling swivel gets in the way of the two bolts closest to the receiver. If an inch-pound torque wrench isn't available, just try and get the tightness equal on all four bolts, keeping the gap even as possible.

Last edited by RJF; May 15th, 2017 at 06:38 PM.
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Old May 16th, 2017, 02:24 AM   #14
 
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It's pretty close, maybe 2 or 3 threads off from left to right.
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Old May 16th, 2017, 07:08 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJF View Post
It should be, otherwise, there may be some accuracy problems. My 583 Tactical was visibly off out of the box. It is a QC problem.

Use a 9/64" hex (Allen) wrench, loosen each of the four bolts a bit, then, using a cross pattern re-tighten a bit at a time. Feeler gauges or something similar is best to ensure uniformity. Gap should be even left and right and fore and aft to approximately equal tightness. If available, use an inch-pound torque wrench with an extended 9/64" hex shaft to 30 inch-pounds. You'll probably need the extended shaft on a torque wrench.driver because the front sling swivel gets in the way of the two bolts closest to the receiver. If an inch-pound torque wrench isn't available, just try and get the tightness equal on all four bolts, keeping the gap even as possible.
I like the idea of feeler gauges to compare the gap on either side of the gas block. After you determine the equal measurement, you could fashion a gauge that would be that thickness. Then, if you remove the gas block in the future, you'd have a tool to quickly and easily get the gap correct on each side upon reassembly.

I purchased one of those T-handle hex wrenches in 9/64" to make gas block work easier.
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