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Help on Mini-30 7.62 Ranch Rifle Reduced Bushing Install

This is a discussion on Help on Mini-30 7.62 Ranch Rifle Reduced Bushing Install within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Hi Guys, New here to the Ruger Forum, owner of several great Ruger guns. I recently bought a mini 30 Ranch Rifle, used in blue, ...


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Old May 8th, 2017, 01:03 PM   #1
 
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Question Help on Mini-30 7.62 Ranch Rifle Reduced Bushing Install

Hi Guys,
New here to the Ruger Forum, owner of several great Ruger guns.
I recently bought a mini 30 Ranch Rifle, used in blue, walnut, without doing a lot of research, thinking I would like a better made 7.62 x 39 because my AK underfolders were not terribly accurate. I then learned that the skinny barreled mini 30 (mine) were not terribly accurate, cannot be relied to shoot the Russian steel casing ammo, and now that mine beats the tar out of my expensive brass cased 7.62x39 ammo I was intending to (now) reload. Did some research and dove in and bought the ASI bushing kit, replacement screws if I bugger the staked ones getting them out, a 9/64 allen wrench with quarter inch drive socket and an inch pound torque wrench to "do it right". It all arrived, and now I realize that the allen wrench socket only reaches two of he four screws. I have seen recommendations of using the short end of an allen wrench as the lever and to tighten "as tight as you can get, finger tight" or the Tee handle. What recommendations would you make? I am also not too excited that ASI bushing "splits the difference in length at .275 between the right length, shorter and longer. Has anyone used the ASI .275 bushingsuccessfully, any problems? Thanks in Advance, shovel99



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Old May 8th, 2017, 02:10 PM   #2
 
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The barrel strut will increase accuracy over 30 percent in my experince. Google min 14 barrel strut and you will see it. It is available from brownells etc. It is home handyman doeable.
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Old May 8th, 2017, 03:13 PM   #3
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shovel, first and foremost, Welcome to the forum from Central Virginia!

There are long-shank 9/64 allen bits available, but you'll need to do a little research. I got mine from Amazon, but don't recall the ultimate source. You'll need the long-shank ones for the two screws closest to the base of the gas block. Harbor freight or similar stores might have one... 28-30 inch-pounds, as you probably know.

There is a member at Perfect Union (Hadaway) that makes to order accurate-length gas bushing sets. They are not a "one size fits none"... He sells a set, depending on your needs. Good service! Usually a set of three different diameters, so your have a range. Every Mini is "different" - hence the set of (usually) three different sizes.

Barrel struts for pencil-barreled Mini-14s do make a significant difference. Mini-30s generally had a heavier barrel to begin with, so a strut - while improving groups - may not make as much of an improvement. Recommendation is to try out your Mini-30 before investing in a strut. They do look great on a Mini and will aid in the barrel cooling department, but directly improving accuracy significantly is questionable for a '30.

The Mini is not a sniper rifle; it is a carbine.

Hope this helps!

Last edited by RJF; May 8th, 2017 at 03:15 PM.
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Old May 8th, 2017, 08:05 PM   #4
 
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Thumbs up Thanks Gents Re: gas block mods..

I will try to track down the long shank bit...
I don't expect it to be a tack driver, but the AK47 with canted sight is problem. way off large cardboard. Even expensive Atl area gunsmith failed to fix it for $125 wasted. ;-(. So hoping small mods and reloading brass rounds works. Have this for high round count SHTF riot control, not prairie dogs.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 03:59 AM   #5
 
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Shovel, I have three of the older Mini-30's, (189 series), the older Mini-30's are not what you'd call; a "skinny barrel". A true skinny barrel is a .560" one like the older Mini-14's.
Mini-30's have always had the thicker .625" barrel. Ruger did not want to make the Mini-30 barrel the same as the Mini-14, what with the larger .30 cal hole and all.
I have found none of the vertical stringing, or accuracy issues with mine.
My 195 series Mini-14, a true pencil barrel, was greatly helped by the addition of an Accustrut. My Mini-30's not so much.
Two of them have Ultimak rails, so I haven't seen a need for a strut on those.
The Ultimak, should you want to look into one later, is the very best place to mount a red dot or scope, as it gets it away from the action and flying brass, and nothing mounts your optic so nice and low. The Ultimak also helps stiffen the barrel, less barrel whip is a good thing, and helps absorb heat. Although I have found the 7.62 x 39 cartridge to be cooler running. Brass just ejected is barely warm, where as with the 5.56mm, brass is to hot to touch for a few minutes. And the Mini-30 barrels don't get as hot either.
Why can't you get the Allen into the other gas block screws ? Sling swivel in the way ?
I remove those first thing, and mount the sling on the side of the fore end, where it should have been all along.
ASI, at one time, may have made a "one size fits all bushing", but they no longer do so. The ones I ordered last year are right on. Carl even let me order three of the same size bushings, instead of the normal kit of three different ones.
You can get a longer, quality aftermarket firing pin, isn;t very hard to fit ( and it MUST be fitted, as all Mini's are different) for $40 and then bve golden with any Commie ammo. All Mini's come with varying degrees of firing pin protrusion, so some Mini's will do better with the deep seated Berdan primers than others.
Tula is the absolute worst as far as failure to fire the first strike.
Much, much better, and for the same price is Red Army Standard ( $5.99 a box of 20).
Out of a couple hundred rounds fired, I have had only two that needed a second firing pin hit. It is pretty accurate, and fast. I get 2550 fps. to 2700 fps out of them, depending on the Mini I fire them out of.
I like PPU ( Privi Partisan ). I reload for the 7.62 x 39, but find I can buy loaded PPU for not much more than just empty new brass would cost me. I shoot the factory FMJ (excellent accuracy and consistency), then save the great brass for reloading. PPU can be had in bulk for 50 cents a round. I order 500 round cases from TargetSports USA for $250 each.
Shovel, the stock Mini does beat up brass, and fling it into the next county, hence the use of reduced gas bushings and 1911 buffers.
Install those, and your M-30 will be throwing the brass only 8 to 15 feet, depending on which bushing you go with, and how thick your buffers are, and your brass will not be dinged up anymore.
Here are a couple links to threads I've done on the Mini-30.
The Mini-30 and Import Ammo
The Mini-30 and the Myth of the .308 bore - Shooting Sports Forum
Velocity Loss Vs. Barrel Length in the Mini-30 - Shooting Sports Forum
Mini-30 Velocity/Accuracy Test Redux - Shooting Sports Forum
Sling Mounting Options for the Mini - Shooting Sports Forum










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Last edited by sandog; May 10th, 2017 at 05:46 PM.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 03:59 AM   #6
 
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Sorry, Double Post

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Old May 9th, 2017, 07:06 AM   #7
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Shovel, Lowes' - under their Kobalt brand of tools - sells (sold?) an 8-piece Ratcheting SAE Hex Key Set, item # 0498878. It consists of seven different allen sizes and a ratcheting handle that can used as either a traditional screwdriver style or as a T-Handle. Allen sizes are 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". It is a pretty nice set for not a lot of coin. This set is not listed on line, though.

In a pinch, you can get one at https://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-132.../dp/B0058I0X74 It is just under 2" long, but should be enough to clear the sling swivel.

Both items above use the standard 1/4" quick-change hex base popular with drills/drivers. If your torque wrench uses a 1/4 socket set up, use a standard 1/4" socket and these will slip right in.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 08:45 AM   #8
 
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Talking Wow, Sandog, great wealth of info! RJF and bwinters also.

My M30 is a 197 series. The ASI bushing set I received is .275 inch long. I had read somewhere that older minis/newer minis like mine used either a longer .295 or shorter .265? Is .275 the right length for my 197?
I have bought and shot pretty accurately the PPU and also concluded that I could get the first free shot of PPU and then load for what new brass would cost. Any favorite loads ans sources for bullets?

I have read online also that it is bad to shoot the Russian ammo (have many k rounds for AK's ) in a M30? Will it damage the rifle? I can imagine a steel casing in a tighter spec chamber potentially being a problem. Or do some minis to better than others and should I just give it a go?
One reason for buying PPU is that my closest range here in Metro ATL is an hour away. However, local indoor ranges have some rifle capacity lanes, but wont allow steel shank bullets used in Russky ammo for fire and damage reasons.
I am too cheap to shoot lots of $.50 per round shots of anything if I can load them for half or less.
Thanks again for all the great information!
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Old May 9th, 2017, 02:37 PM   #9
 
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Smile Mini 30 Ranch Rifle Reduced Bushing...

My 197 2005+ version has factory swivel mostly in the way as well as screw placement of the two closest screws right up against the front end of the forend. I am not even sure that the 9/64' allen on the end of a 3 inch long 1/4 inch hex will fit between the swivel and the forend. The rifle has a stud poking out of the center of the forarm about an inch rearward of the factory swivel that appears to have been installed for an alternate swivel. If I cannot get at the screws with the 3 inch extension, I suppose I could cut off the factory swivel and find an alternate attachment or some arrangement like sandog's rig. What a factory PIA to make the swivel non removable and place it on top of the gas block screws. Really trying to make it impossible for anyone except the factory with custom tools from doing anything to it. I suppose all done by the lawyers. We'll see when the part come is.
Or just hack along with a standard 9/64 and crescent wrench to get it out, and practice a bit with the torque wrench and manually twist with the short end, as others have suggested. Bad, Ruger, Bad.
Thanks, Shovel.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 05:15 PM   #10
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Shovel, I don't own a Mini-30 - just two Mini-14s. The gas block/sling swivel physics are the same, though. The extended-length Allen bits do okay with the sling swivel in place. They rub against it a little, but not enough to screw up the torque settings.

To be honest, I have never touched the screws on my 181 Mini. Those are still staked and I have no reason to screw with them as the ejects are about 3-4'. I did use the extended length bits on my 583, and they did fine.

Some Mini-30s had a problem with cheap Russkie ammo. There is a fix (replacing the firing pin with some fitting), and Sandog can describe that evolution. For me, I'll just stick with brass-cased ammo as it is reliable: nothing like a jam/misfire/failure-to-fire to screw up an otherwise enjoyable shooting experience. To me, it is worth the extra cost.

I prefer to keep my 181 as-original, since it was/is my first firearm and has some sentimental value. Sandog's mods to put a sling/swivel to the side are right on, and a dremel will quickly remove your factory sling/swivel to clear up things for the screws.

I'm sure the original Ruger engineers are having babies over these threads screwing around with the gas bushings and gas blocks. They never intended folks actually improving on their Minis with bushings, etc. I'm sure the lawyers are upset, too.

Stinkin' lawyers...
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Old May 10th, 2017, 05:03 AM   #11
 
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Quote:
Stinkin' lawyers...
Stinkin' liars... Fixed it for ya
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Old May 10th, 2017, 07:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COSteve View Post
Stinkin' liars... Fixed it for ya
We need a "like" button!
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Old May 10th, 2017, 08:50 AM   #13
 
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I agree
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Old May 18th, 2017, 07:03 AM   #14
 
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Question Lube question... grease for internals?

Hi Gents,

I have installed the .060 bushing and looked up lube before reassembly. The one that came out had a huge hole in it and was approx .263 long. I measured the combined space in barrel and block at .288, so this appeared to be previous owner redo.

I think it was Midway USA or Brownells video suggested using a lithium grease on several internal points, rail bearing surfaces etc. Grease attracts dirt and guns make dirt. Do you guys recommend this or will just a good quality of oil do the job? This gun is, regrettably, likely to get used two or three times per year so a long term solution is desired. It is an all day long hike to the nearest range.

Thanks!
Paul
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Old May 18th, 2017, 01:01 PM   #15
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shovel, my preference is using a dry lube, but I sometimes use a light application of SuperLube (Harbor Freight or Amazon) or Mobil-1. No oil in the firing pin.
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