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Mini 14 jams

This is a discussion on Mini 14 jams within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I am new to the forum. I bought a brand new Mini-14 in November of 2016 and it has probably 500 rounds through it. I ...


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Old April 2nd, 2017, 01:39 PM   #1
 
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Mini 14 jams

I am new to the forum. I bought a brand new Mini-14 in November of 2016 and it has probably 500 rounds through it. I only use brass cased ammo and clean the gun after every range outing.

From the beginning, it has jammed periodically -- usually a stove pipe where the round does not fully eject. Today at the range, after firing, the empty shell casing did not eject and is currently still in the barrel. I cannot retract the bolt at all.

I searched for some solutions elsewhere but found no answers. I have contacted Ruger customer service and my guess is they will want me to send the gun to them. In the meantime, does any one have suggestions on how to remove the spent casing?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Kevin



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Old April 2nd, 2017, 01:52 PM   #2
 
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Send the gun in. If it were me and I wanted to try and remove the empty case. I would take a rubber mallet to the bolt. But I would be willing to accept any damage I did to the gun. Best of luck to you
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 02:39 PM   #3
 
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Are you SURE that the round in the chamber is a fired casing and not a live round?

The first step is to get the action open. Remove the magazine, point the muzzle in safe direction and hook the operating rod on something solid like a wooden deck railing, work bench, table and push the rifle down to force the bolt open. Even if you tear the rim off the casing it's better to have the action open so you can confirm it's a spent round.

Once you get the action open you can proceed from there. If the casing comes out of the chamber - Great! If it stays in the chamber you can lock the bolt open and confirm the spent primer. IF the casing stays in the chamber and you are CERTAIN it's a spent casing; you can then insert a rod from the muzzle and tap the empty casing out of the chamber.

Once you've cleared the gun you can work on your problem. If you're using the proper ammunition and getting those types of failures, a trip back to Ruger is the best solution.

Good Luck.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 02:58 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol and Powder View Post
Are you SURE that the round in the chamber is a fired casing and not a live round?

The first step is to get the action open. Remove the magazine, point the muzzle in safe direction and hook the operating rod on something solid like a wooden deck railing, work bench, table and push the rifle down to force the bolt open. Even if you tear the rim off the casing it's better to have the action open so you can confirm it's a spent round.

Once you get the action open you can proceed from there. If the casing comes out of the chamber - Great! If it stays in the chamber you can lock the bolt open and confirm the spent primer. IF the casing stays in the chamber and you are CERTAIN it's a spent casing; you can then insert a rod from the muzzle and tap the empty casing out of the chamber.

Once you've cleared the gun you can work on your problem. If you're using the proper ammunition and getting those types of failures, a trip back to Ruger is the best solution.

Good Luck.
Well, thank you very much for the suggestion. I did as you suggested and was able to slide the bolt back and removed the empty shell casing. The rim of the casing is pretty chewed up but intact. I have contacted Ruger for next steps. Its jammed pretty consistently since I bought it.

Thanks again.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 03:00 PM   #5
 
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One further question. The ammo used is Wolf Gold -- I have read that there have been issues with this ammo in some guns. Could it be an ammo issue?

Thanks
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 03:05 PM   #6
 
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would not hurt to try some different ammo first.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 04:02 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by curt mini14 View Post
would not hurt to try some different ammo first.
Definitely. Try some regular 55 gr Winchester/Remington/Federal .223 ammo.
Also: what is your cleaning/re-lubing regimen for the Mini? There are dozens of ways to 'clean' a gun. Some are pretty quick and insufficient.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 05:27 PM   #8
 
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Personally, the only two non-US made ammo brands I will use are IMI (Israeli) and Fiocchi (some of which is US made, but not all).

US made ammo is a tad more expensive, but is almost always trouble free.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 06:36 PM   #9
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kmacafee, first of all, welcome to the forum from Central Virginia.

Just to verify, the S/N on your Mini should start with 583-. 583s have been around a while, but occasionally folks buy a "new" Mini and it is an older 582-series - usually from old stock. Some 582-series Minis had problems as you describe, and Ruger made them well or replaced.

If you are certain the round is expended, you can also try the "mortar" fix -a common fix for Garand-type actions. After removing the mag, with the butt facing down and barrel pointed up, slam it down on the ground butt first. The momentum of the op rod usually breaks things loose. That might fix your immediate problem.

When you first got your Mini, did you thoroughly clean it before firing? Minis ship with a gunky preservative that can turn to tar (or worse) if subjected to heat (like firing). the phrase "gumming up the works" applies. A very thorough cleaning of the chamber would probably help.

Wolf Gold ammo is a little weaker than other ammo, but should work okay - particularly for an over-gassed Mini. I use PMC Bronze .223 in my two minis and it cycles wonderfully. As others have said, try a different ammo, like the NATO M193 or M855: they're a bit more powerful. They're only a few cents more than the Wolf - well worth it for reliable firing.

When working, how far do the ejected casings go? Should be at least five feet, preferably more. If they aren't going that far, then there is likely a problem with the gas port or gas system.

Regardless, if after a very thorough cleaning - paying special attention to the chamber - it still jams, it needs to go back to Ruger.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 06:38 PM   #10
 
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I'd say it needs to go into Ruger, one of mine was acting the same as yours regardless of ammo or magazine. After getting it back it's ran flawlessly. It was a 582 series ranch.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 05:57 AM   #11
 
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Thanks for all the info. Mine is definitely a 583 series. I will try some Federal ammo I have before sending it back.

As for cleaning, I have followed the instructions on a number of excellent You Tube videos so I don't think its a cleaning issue. I'm open to suggestions.

Cheers
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 10:13 AM   #12
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Probably not the problem, but verify that the recoil spring guide rod is properly oriented (check the manual). I doubt you could even complete pulling the op rod back, but just another thing to verify. Don't want a "D'oh" when sending it back to Ruger...
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 02:25 PM   #13
 
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I wouldn't bother with any additional trouble shooting. It's a Ruger, It's not working as it should. JUST SEND IT BACK and let Ruger figure out the problem or replace it.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 01:02 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Petrol and Powder View Post
I wouldn't bother with any additional trouble shooting. It's a Ruger, It's not working as it should. JUST SEND IT BACK and let Ruger figure out the problem or replace it.
He got the stuck case out. The rifle is a new 583 series (not a 582 with possible known issues). Re-inserting the recoil spring guide rod tip properly into the metal buffer is an easy check/fix. A proper cleaning and re-lube, followed by some shooting with at least two brands of good-quality domestic ammo should clear up any ammo related doubts, before going through the hassle of sending and receiving back a rifle.

OP: have you cleaned the gas passage on the rifle?
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Old April 4th, 2017, 03:30 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firescout View Post
He got the stuck case out. The rifle is a new 583 series (not a 582 with possible known issues). Re-inserting the recoil spring guide rod tip properly into the metal buffer is an easy check/fix. A proper cleaning and re-lube, followed by some shooting with at least two brands of good-quality domestic ammo should clear up any ammo related doubts, before going through the hassle of sending and receiving back a rifle.

OP: have you cleaned the gas passage on the rifle?
This is why I gave the advice to send it back to Ruger:
From the OP:
"...........From the beginning, it has jammed periodically -- usually a stove pipe where the round does not fully eject. ...........
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