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Handguard ar556

This is a discussion on Handguard ar556 within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Originally Posted by eddiesc I have the Magpul slim line handguard on my AR556 but have decided I want to go free float with a ...


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Old February 21st, 2017, 09:26 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by eddiesc View Post
I have the Magpul slim line handguard on my AR556 but have decided I want to go free float with a longer hand guard. It doesnt appear to be a difficult job with proper tools like an upper vice block and armorers wrench.

If anybody that has removed the front site on the AR556 could chime in i would appreciate it. Which direction should I be hammering to take out the 2 taper pins. Tried to measure with a set of calipers, but I havent had any luck.
If you are shouldering the rifle, the pins move left to right. I was able to tell which "head" was smaller when when looking at them. Mine came out pretty easy, and I have read here about how some of them have fallen out when pulling the gun from the box. Hopefully they are easy for you and not seized/stuck like some others have said on the forum.

Also, make sure you use grease when working the new barrel nut on so you don't gall the threads.




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Old February 21st, 2017, 12:02 PM   #17
 
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msp3903 is a jewel in the roughmsp3903 is a jewel in the roughmsp3903 is a jewel in the roughmsp3903 is a jewel in the rough
Most all drop in furniture that I know of is going to at least leave the top of the gas block exposed, as that is about the only reason for retaining drop in, to use that as a sight post. I have personally never seen drop in that covers the gas block completely. As mentioned, you can buy a handguard cap to go behind virtually any gas block and still use any standard drop in. But to totally cover gas block, I believe free float is the only way
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Old February 21st, 2017, 12:40 PM   #18
 
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Hopefully they are easy for you and not seized/stuck like some others have said on the forum.

Also, make sure you use grease when working the new barrel nut on so you don't gall the threads.
I was able to knock them out on my lunch break. They were in there really well. Thanks for the advice on the new barrel nut. Once it arrives with the UTG pro rail I plan to use anti-seize for the installation.
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Old February 21st, 2017, 03:42 PM   #19
 
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Thanks for the advice on the new barrel nut. Once it arrives with the UTG pro rail I plan to use anti-seize for the installation.
I believe you are supposed to use moly grease as you work the barrel nut on to get the proper torque setting (30-80 ft/lbs). The range is because of having to line the holes up for the gas tube. When I did mine with a Midwest Industries rail and included barrel nut, we (Girlfriends Father and I) split the difference at 55 ft/lbs because there were no holes to line up.
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