jdouglasj

I'm having Accuracy Systems make me a customized Mini-14. They haven't started yet, but I told them I wanted iron sights on the gun. But since it's going to have sub-MOA accuracy, I might want to put a scope on it at some point and see what I can do at 200 yards.

I don't know anything about scopes, but I thought I would just use the scope rings and put a traditional scope on the thing, rather than having them put a rail on the gun.

But here's my question: If I want to switch back and forth from using the iron sights to using the scope, is it easy to take off the scope and the rings, or is this a somewhat involved job? I assume it'll take a lot more work to zero it versus using a trigicon mounted on a rail. But that doesn't seem like such a big deal.

If I want to switch back and forth I'm sure a rail would be easier, but I could deal with a little inconvenience if it wasn't such a big deal to take off the rings.

Tracer

Weaver made see through mounts and I know somebody else does also, I have seen them being put on various rifles at my local gunstore. I have a Leupold 3 X 9 X 42mm on my wifes new Mini-14 and it shoots satisfactory for a semi-auto production factory rifle. Last time out I shot several 2 inch groups off the bench at 100 yards. The wife shot one group of 1.85 with the same rifle and ammo.

dksac2

I'd go with the rail. Chances are once you get the rifle, you will use the scope more than the open sights. I have a rail on mine and the sights are for back up only.

Best Regards, John K

oldarmy

I go back and forth from reddot sight to scope on the ruger rings if it is zeroed for the gun you can switch back and forth and be where you were the time before. Just zero once be careful and it stays right there. I switch often and stay zeroed. Ruger gunsmith told me on the phone to get rings for all you use once zeroed they stay within a few thousanths of an inch. Got a 4X scope for the miniNRA and a Reddot Millet and switch in 30 seconds or so.
The system works well on one gun. That way everything stays zeroed and ready to go once zeroed, and locked tight.
Oldarmy

dksac2

You want to get QD rings. I think that Warne makes rings that fit right on the ruger scope mounts. The QD (quick disconnect) rings work very good and hold their zero when taken off and put back on.
I hate see through sights, too tall.
Call ASI and tell them what you want to do. They can check to see what ring height you will need to go with their open sights and if the direct mount rings will work. Go with the simplest, strongest mount you can get. Stay away from the side mounts. No matter what ASI says, they cause problems.
ASI does good work, but are a little on the high priced side in my opinion. Buy what you can yourself, not from them. They tend to mark things up pretty good.
The ruger rings will work also if you can get one's high enough to clear your line of sight with the rear and front sights Ruger rings are only available in 1", the Warne are listed only in 1" in the Brownells catalog, but they may have come out with a 30mm ring also.
Check with Warne if that's what will work and get the correct height of ring. The Ruger rings are not QD rings



Best Regards, John K

5 Boyz

My mount is a Warne Ruger M14 mount love it makes it a rear picitanny mount on mini. Then you can mount anything real easy.

dksac2

I've got the same rail on my Mini and really like it. It's rock solid.
I milled the front of the rail off just in front of the rear of the OP rod cover so that I can take down the weapon without removing the rail.
I do have to remove the scope so I have it in QD rings. It goes on right back to a perfect zero.
I still have to remove the rail to get the bolt out, just not enough room with the rail on.
I have a Millett DMS-1 scope/red dot and it fits on the rail just fine with the rail cut. The DMS-1 is one heck of a good piece of glass for less than $250.00.
No hits or dings on anything from the ejected brass.
Some just like to use Warne QD rings mounted to the ruger ring mounts and from what I hear they work pretty good.
I'm not sure if the brass hits the scope when ejected. Maybe someone can comment.

Best Regards, John K

5 Boyz

You can get the bolt out without removing the rail. It will come out the bottom. Sometimes mine will just fall right out. Now with that said sometimes I can get it right back in no problems but and a big BUT at that it has given me fits and got the best of me ,but I am to bull head to let something so simple to get the best of me even though it would be faster to remove the rail. LOL

dksac2

I need to remove a little metal in the slot that the tail of the FP goes through on the inside of the receiver.
My bolt is a SOB, pig from hates to get out.
Some bolts just fall out, Mine you have to push the FP back in and while holding it in, wiggle the bolt and if you are lucky and find just the right angle within 1/2 of 1/4 of 1/16th degree, it will come out.
I think that if I remove just a very small bit of metal from just the right place, it will cure the problem.
Just don't know why I have not done it yet, but I'm going to.
Maybe then I can get it out without removing the rail.
I wonder if removing a small amount of marerial in just the right place on the rail would allow you to get the bolt back in without removing the rail.
You would have to look at it very closely as to only remove a little metal in just the right sport. If it works, just polish the aluminum and color with Aluminum Black from Birchwood Casey.
The Warne rail is a great piece of equipment, too bad they don't look at things like that when doing design work. The designer most likely didn't have a mini.

Best Regards, John K