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shock buffer

5K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  Bill30867 
#1 ·
Hi , does the shock Buffer really avoid stress on the receiver ? I have it but i didn't mount it yet , I noted that the bolt will have short action , this mean for sure an eventual trouble shooting , I also think that due the rebound effect that the buffer will give to the bolt it will be more stress on the action during the bolt lock in the chamber , what do you think ? tks Riccardo
 
#2 ·
I personally think bolt buffers are hype. I've put over 5000 rounds through my 10-22, and have ZERO wear on the back of the receiver of the bolt stop pin. The bolt buffer will quiet the gun down a tiny amount by taking the metal on metal "clak" sound out of the firing sequence, but that's about it.

If you really want to help a 10-22 be more accurate, there are two main things...work on the trigger, and practice shooting a lot. Those two things alone will have you punching the x-ring in no time.
 
#3 ·
Are you referring to a mini 14? If so, I recommend the buffer. However you might have to grind it down to make it a bit thinner so the bolt will cycle normally.
 
#5 ·
Glad the buffer is working on your 181 series. On my 580 series I also had to grind the buffer a small amount so that the bolt would stay open. Having done that, so far no problems on several visits to the range.
 
#7 ·
I have a thread below discussing some issues i have had with my mini, and as it turns out the buffer was causing those problems. I suppose i can thin it down a bit, but it's odd because the gun used to cycle 100% fine with the buffer, then randomly started locking up on the last round.
 
#8 ·
Riccardo, Both the 10/22 and Mini-14 were designed to operate without a buffer and do not stress the receiver. I agree with Johngoboom ... shock buffers are just another way to spend money without being "value added" and in most cases, cause problems with ejection or last round bolt lock-back. About the only thing they do is change the cycling sound from a clank to a thud.

Ruger designed the Mini-14 to operate with a wide range of loads from light 45 gr bullets to the hotter 5.56 NATO. As such, the gas bushing is quite large to ensure there is enough pressure to cycle the action with light loads. Although the design works quite well to cycle the action reliably, the side affect is .... spent cases fling to the next county.

The solution is to limit the amount of gas supplied to the gas pipe. This can be done by changing the gas bushing to one with a smaller hole (cheap and easy to replace), however each different load may require a different gas bushing for optimum performance. The gas port in the barrel measures .055" in my old 183 series Mini. The factory gas bushing hole measured .075". In order to reduce gas pressure, the hole in the gas bushing must be something smaller than .055" so I made a new gas bushing with a .045" hole. Quite by accident, this gas bushing works perfect with my factory equivalent reloads .... 55 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets and 26.5 gr of Varget powder. The spent cases now fling about 3 feet instead of 25 feet. The Mini-14 cycles perfect and the bolt locks back reliably after the last round. This reversible modification not only reduces "brass fling" .... it also changes the cycling sound from a "clank" to more of a "tick".

Using the same .045" bushing, I tried using factory loads with 45 gr bullets and they would not cycle the action reliably. 62 gr 5.56 NATO loads still fling the brass way too far with the smaller bushing so my option is to use the factory bushing with 45 gr bullets and make another gas bushing with a smaller hole for 5.56 NATO ammo. I seldom shoot 5.56 ammo so I doubt if I'll bother with another gas bushing.

There is another solution .... an adjustable gas block that Brownell's sells. If it weren't so expensive (about $147) or if I intended to shoot a wide variety of ammo, I'd probably buy one. See: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21377/Product/MINI_14_MINI_30_ADJUSTABLE_GAS_BLOCK

Reducing gas port pressure is a true "fix", whereas shock buffers are basically worthless.
 
#9 ·
Iowegan,
I realize this thread has been inactive for a while, but am curious. My (189--1998) M30 throws brass 25ft, and dents badly. Buffer seems not the answer, but smaller bushing as you say. Saw the adj block on brownells, but in addition to being pricey seems to be "in the white" which would suck being mine is stainless and don't want to blue that part, or fight rust forever. I saw somewhere, for sale a 3 pack of varying bushings but can't remember where. Anyone know where? this sounds like the way for me to go. Iowegan you are very well informed and I enjoy your responses. Thanks in advance to anyone for help.
 
#11 ·
I've installed a smaller size gas bushing in my Ranch rifle. I'm using a .045 bushing, the original was .085". It has helped to reduce the violence of the slide action and the brass is only thrown about 10 feet.

I have tried using buffers on both ends of the slide assm, and ended up removing the front buffer. I currently using a rubber washer buffer mounted on the recoil spring where it fits into the S/S buffer bushing. Works OK. I was concerned that the front bushing was not allowing the slide to move into the proper position, which is needed to cam the bolt into place and keep it tight.

Now that I've installed the smaller gas bushing, I see very little dented brass casings.

I should note that my Ranch rifle was made with a 1 in 7 twist barrel, which needs a heavier bullet. 69 & 77 seem to shoot best. I won't be using any thing like the 45 or 50gr. As noted earlier the gas bushing needs to match the ammo used.
 
#13 ·
Necessity is the mother of invention. Since it almost impossible to purchase anything other than 55gr ammo locally, I got motivated to assemble the equipment needed for hand loading. The end result has been well worth the effort to set up a loading bench. The target results have been impressive compared to commercially loaded ammo. And, rolling my own has minimized the impact of the cost for better heavier ammo.

This Mini does not do any better with 62gr M855 than it does with 55 gr. Federal, with 2-3/4 to 3"groups being typical. Using a hand loaded Sierra 69 hpbt Matchking I can now get groups of 1- 1/2" @ 100 yards, 10 shot groups. I have some 77gr loaded up, but its been too windy to go out to the range. Constant 15 - 30 mph winds.

Changing the gas bushing is one of several changes helpful to improve a Mini.
 
#14 ·
Let me know if you can get that heavy stuff to keep from tumbling on you. I've had a few boxes of some gifted to me 73 gr. that I could keep together, but never owned one (3 of them) that really liked the heavy stuff.
 
#15 ·
The main reason for using a shock buffer on a Mini-14 is to save your scope if you have one mounted when the operating rod slams forward. Scopes are designed for recoil the forward thrust of the operating rod will break them. I use a .45 ACP Wilson shock buffer on the front slipped over the gas tube..
 
#16 ·
the bushing kit is from Accuracy Systems...$13.95 for a set of three
 
#17 ·
I recently purchased a Mini 14. After hearing about the brass throwing capability of the rifle, I did some research on brass catchers. Saw one on line for $50.00. I made one out of stuff I had laying around the shop and spent $1.50 on some netting. It works great. Don't know how long the netting will last but it won't cost much to replace it.
 
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