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Mini 14 dented brass

This is a discussion on Mini 14 dented brass within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Hello, first post. I just bought a 582 series mini 14 ranch rifle used. I noticed that when loading a magazine that the first round ...


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Old March 3rd, 2016, 06:05 PM   #1
 
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Mini 14 dented brass

Hello, first post. I just bought a 582 series mini 14 ranch rifle used. I noticed that when loading a magazine that the first round gets dented by the closed bolt. Am I doing this wrong? Can you only load on an open bolt? I don't reload so I don't really care about that aspect of it but I am wondering if dented brass is OK to fire. Its not like it turned the brass inside out, but its noticeable. Thanks



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Old March 3rd, 2016, 06:12 PM   #2
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The brass gets dented far more when it ejects. Dents in the case will fire-form to the chamber (as long as it's not cracked/pierced). No big deal.
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Old March 3rd, 2016, 06:15 PM   #3
 
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Thanks. New to center fire autoloaders.
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Old March 3rd, 2016, 06:19 PM   #4
 
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I want to say it's not a problem, but I'd have to see the a picture of the dent. A small dent won't affect anything. A large dent might. I've never noticed that happening with my Mini-14. Are they Ruger magazines?

How many rounds are you loading into the mags? Loading 21 in a 20 round mag would cause it, if that's even possible. There should be enough spring left after 20 rounds to depress the top round slightly by hand.
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Old March 3rd, 2016, 06:24 PM   #5
 
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Its the factory 5 round mag. Loaded to 5 rounds. Like I said, its not a huge or even moderate dent, but noticeable. Just making sure that there will not be any unsafe pressure spikes.
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Old March 3rd, 2016, 07:37 PM   #6
 
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Load from an open bolt unless you have the magazine down loaded by at least one round in the 5 & 10 round magazine (insert a magazine of 4 or 9 on a closed bolt) and by 2 rounds on anything bigger than a 20 round magazine. It's just one of the issues with a Mini. You will learn to adjust.

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Old March 3rd, 2016, 10:26 PM   #7
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A small dent will be ironed out during the reloading process when sizing the brass. If you want to cure the dents, install a smaller gas bushing to slow down the excessive movement speed of the operating bolt. Doing that will also stop any excessive wear and tear on the operating rod and the metal parts it contacts during the violent rearward movement caused by excessive amounts of gas to operate the rod during the extraction and feeding process. There is videos on YouTube that show how to replace the gas bushing and also installing 1911 recoil buffers on the mini 14. I did this with my mini 30 to stop the brass being thrown out so hard that the brass would eject 20-30 feet away from my shooting position and dinging the brass in the process. It cured the problem and I still have reliable feeding and ejection of the spent brass.
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Old March 4th, 2016, 02:23 AM   #8
 
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I haven't even shot it yet. I was outside and loaded a mag to see how it fed and noticed the dent where the case and shoulder meet. Oh well. I'll shoot it and go from there. Thanks for the replies.
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Old March 4th, 2016, 06:16 AM   #9
 
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Old March 7th, 2016, 10:37 AM   #10
 
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load on an OPEN bolt

I think ruger says to load only on an OPEN bolt........I store my gun with an open bolt anyways.......safer to check for a loaded gun anyways.....so everytime i load it is an open bolt....thought everyone did it like me............guess not?
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Old March 7th, 2016, 04:53 PM   #11
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I guess I'm odd-man-out. Closed bolt, mag loaded, safety on. Charge once and rock and roll as necessary...

Not my first home defense go-to weapon, otherwise, things would be different (round in chamber with mag in, safety on).
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Old March 8th, 2016, 09:31 AM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBK View Post
A small dent will be ironed out during the reloading process when sizing the brass. If you want to cure the dents, install a smaller gas bushing to slow down the excessive movement speed of the operating bolt. Doing that will also stop any excessive wear and tear on the operating rod and the metal parts it contacts during the violent rearward movement caused by excessive amounts of gas to operate the rod during the extraction and feeding process. There is videos on YouTube that show how to replace the gas bushing and also installing 1911 recoil buffers on the mini 14. I did this with my mini 30 to stop the brass being thrown out so hard that the brass would eject 20-30 feet away from my shooting position and dinging the brass in the process. It cured the problem and I still have reliable feeding and ejection of the spent brass.
Back in the late 70's when I got my 181, all I did was add a heavier recoil spring to the guide rod and it solved the problem. Don't know if they still make them.
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Old March 8th, 2016, 09:40 AM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmike7189 View Post
I think ruger says to load only on an OPEN bolt........I store my gun with an open bolt anyways.......safer to check for a loaded gun anyways.....so everytime i load it is an open bolt....thought everyone did it like me............guess not?
I prefer to keep the tension off the spring and keep mine closed in storage.

My manual says it can be loaded with an open or closed bolt and not to load magazine past it's stated capacity.

Last edited by Maddmax; March 8th, 2016 at 09:42 AM.
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Old March 8th, 2016, 09:48 AM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJF View Post
I guess I'm odd-man-out. Closed bolt, mag loaded, safety on. Charge once and rock and roll as necessary...

Not my first home defense go-to weapon, otherwise, things would be different (round in chamber with mag in, safety on).
Nope, me too.

Not my home go to weapon either.
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Old March 8th, 2016, 01:41 PM   #15
 
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Fired it this weekend. Everything ran fine like I thought it would. Its not my home defense firearm because of concerns of over penetration. Just a walking through the woods gun. It will serve its purpose fine.
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