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Thinking of buying a 583 series Mini 30 and selling my 183 series

This is a discussion on Thinking of buying a 583 series Mini 30 and selling my 183 series within the Ruger Semi-Auto forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Originally Posted by COSteve The trigger guard lock requires that the tab on the back of the trigger guard be tight against the plate. Likely ...


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Old October 25th, 2015, 01:06 PM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COSteve View Post
The trigger guard lock requires that the tab on the back of the trigger guard be tight against the plate. Likely your trigger guard is a bit sprung from pulling too hard on it to open it when the action wasn't opened. Take the item you use to open the action and use it to slightly bend the guard back in place so it snaps in firmly as it locks. Should fix the issue.
Will have to give that a try, Thanks



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Old October 25th, 2015, 04:41 PM   #17
 
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Hey Sandog, you want to now how small of a world planet earth is? That company you linked me to that makes the stainless steel firing pins, they are twenty miles from me. I'm going to try and drive my rifle there sometime this week.
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Old October 25th, 2015, 05:10 PM   #18
 
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Good deal. The pin they make was longer than the factory pin, so you have some room to work with there. Sorry the pic of the two pins was a bit fuzzy. Still using my girlfriend's cheap camera, until I can replace my old one.
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Old October 25th, 2015, 08:49 PM   #19
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Sanddog, I have a bone to pick with you. For the past few months I have been trying to locate some AA-1680 powder that is made for the 7.62x39mm in order to get my handloads up to the velocity of factory ammo. Was not able to find it and had to settle on several pounds of H335 powder.
Now you give out the information about using A-2015 powder to achieve the velocity I want. Your load of 28.6 grains of A-2015 is 6 tenths over the Accurate load data, but should be safe as their load of 28 grains is rated at 35,120 CUP which is well below the SAAMI max specs of around 45,000 CUP. I went out to my reloading room and sure enough I have 3 pounds of A-2015 on hand. You failed to save me about 50 bucks this month!!!! I forgive you, and thanks for the information as A-2015 is easy to find in my local area.
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Old October 25th, 2015, 09:04 PM   #20
 
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Ohh I do have another question since I've read mixed reviews on this... Has anyone else here used the Hogue rubber molded stock on a pre-retooled mini 30 2004 or earlier like mine? I'm seriously considering Hogue rubber to reduce weight.
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Old October 26th, 2015, 12:23 AM   #21
 
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HBK, I had heard from doing some research that A-1680 was THE powder for loading the 7.62x39. I could not find any locally or online. Companies that list a lot of powder always said "out of stock".
I am using Hornady .310 bullets, so I went with their data. According to them, with their 123 grain .310 bullets, A-1680 doesn't even come close in velocity compared to two other powders they used, H-4198 and A-2015. Both of those gave 2400 fps at the max charge. Which is a full 200 fps. more than A-1680.
I can find A-2015 always at three stores here in my town. I already had 4198 on hand as I use it in my .45-70.
While working up a load, I found a couple "sweet spots"as far as the most accurate in my Mini's. One was at 26.6 grains, the other was at 28.6 grains. The lighter charge was about 150 fps. slower than the max charge of 28.6. The 28.6 load is 1/10th of a grain over what Hornady listed as max. They showed 2400 fps. as the velocity out of an 20 inch SKS barrel. I clock my loads at 2375, which sounds about right as the Mini has a 2" shorter barrel.
The 28.6 load just about fills the case, I tap the case to settle the powder down somewhat before seating the bullet.
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Old October 26th, 2015, 12:44 AM   #22
 
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StevenJ61, I have the Hogue on my 195 series Mini-14. They work fine, the action and trigger group are very snug in the stock. I do believe that the Hogue is as heavy or slightly heavier than the wood stock, and way heavier than my Ruger synthetic stock.
The Hogue is a bit fatter in the pistol grip and throughout the fore end, which gives it a nice substantial feel. It is also very grippy due to the rubber overmolding. Grippy is good where your hands go, not so good when you are trying to bring the gun up to your shoulder, as the rubber just forward of the butt pad wants to grab your shirt.
I minimized that by using a Spectre sling that attaches by means of two velcro straps around the butt, and using the optional mag pouch. It is meant for holding a 20 round mag, but I keep a loaded 5 round magazine in there and have room left for a small bag containing an Otis cleaning cable, a little vial of CLP, small cleaning patches, a spare firing pin and extractor, and a couple small Allen wrenches that fit the screws on the strut, Tech sight and Ultimak rail.
Between the sling attachment and the pouch, grabbiness against your shirt is pretty minimal. I don't think you will gain any weight saving at all with the Hogue.
What really is feather light, is the Ruger synthetic stock. Both of my Mini-30's are set up very similar, but ever time I pick up the syn stock one, I just marvel at how light the rig is. And I like how slim and trim it feels compared to the Hogue or my wood stocked M-30.
It only comes in black though, and I don't like black. As soon as I get the stainless Mini the way I want it (just need a strut and some q.d. side swivels to attach to the stock) I will Cerakote the stainless parts grey and Cerakote the stock as well in a different shade of grey.
Here are a couple pics of the Hogue stocked 5.56mm showing the Spectre sling and pouch. I am a lefty ( and my friend shooting it in the pic is too) so the sling and pouch will be on the wrong side for a right handed shooter.
Ruger synthetic stock is on the stainless Mini-30.


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Old October 26th, 2015, 05:45 AM   #23
 
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Ouch that's surprising that the Hogue stock is heavier than the wood. Thanks for the information. Is the weight difference between the wood and polymer stock significant? I thought it would be.
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Old October 30th, 2015, 08:02 PM   #24
 
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Sandog, I ended up just buying the firing pin you linked. It fits however, it's got 'too much' protrusion. When I first put it in it was 0.063 I believe around there. My digital calipers are a little finicky. I ground it down until it was just below 0.04 and my calipers are measuring the protrusion on average of 0.0365 to 0.0385 or so. It's hard to get it just zero as sometimes those thousands of an inch slip and need to be reset.

Servicing The Ruger Mini-14 - Special Reports Article

I found this article which gave me good instructions on how to remove the extractor to do this, it was a pain but not super hard to do. It recommends a firing protrusion range of 0.023 to 0.033 for mini 14. I'll have to test it. I don't want to go too much over the max recommended in the article. If anything else, I have the original firing pin. I also did ground down the face of the bolt to remove the dimple. I should be at the range in the next fourteen to fifteen hours at the time of this posting so we'll see. At least I know that firing pin you mentioned will fit inside the bolt carrier for the mini 30. Should function fine.
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Old October 31st, 2015, 12:51 AM   #25
 
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Steven, I was going to mention that Brownell's sold a firing pin protrusion gauge, but the link you provided above covered that nicely. I would think that the minimum and maximum protrusion the article stated was for a factory spec set up. If you want to more reliably ignite Berdan ammo, you will have to go a bit over the max protrusion listed, or you will just have another spare pin like the factory one (not a bad thing to have on hand).
How much to go over is a matter of uncharted waters. Perhaps if you know someone with an AKM or SKS you could measure the pin protrusion of those.
Another thing to consider is, if you fit a pin that reliably strikes a Berdan primer better might be borderline for piercing Boxer primers such as those found in PMC, PPU or Federal American Eagle. You want just a little more protrusion than the norm.
The article also stated you want an .020" minimum between the back of the pin and hammer.My Iron Sight Precision pin stuck out the back of the bolt quite a bit more than the factory pin. So the shoulder that is halfway down the pin would have to have some material removed as well, to get the new pin to rest further inside the bolt. This is to prevent the hammer from contacting the firing pin before the gun goes into battery.
I'd think that after getting the new pin to rest inside the bolt the same as your old factory pin (same protrusion at the back of the bolt), try for .010" extra front protrusion, and test fire some rounds, wearing safety glasses of course. Berdan primed ammo, and as you might also be shooting Boxer primed ammo one day, those should be tested as well, and if you get no pierced primers, you have succeeded in finding a happy medium.
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Old October 31st, 2015, 04:57 AM   #26
 
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No problem Sandog. I looked a the protrusion gauge from Brownells but even in the demo video where they show you how to use their protrusion gauge it still requires digital calipers. I was zeroing the calipers from the distance top to bottom of the bolt then finding how much the pin protruded out of the front of the bolt. I didn't measure how much the back stuck out. It seems to cycle so far ok in dry tests.
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Old November 1st, 2015, 03:14 PM   #27
 
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Fired a full box worth of Wolf ammo zero issues, no failures to fire, no pierced primers from what I can tell. I then put through another forty five rounds of Yugo brass cased Berdan primer rounds no failures to fire, no slam fires, and no failures to eject. Unfortunately the brass Yugo shells were ejected with such force I couldn't find where they landed! I think they went over the firing line and I'm not running out there to pick it up lol! So yeah seems to be working ok with Russian surplus.
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Old November 1st, 2015, 11:55 PM   #28
 
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Glad it's working out. I need to get around to getting my Iron Sight Precision pin fitted like your's.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 02:44 PM   #29
 
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Thanks Sandog, more updates have arrived! New Mo Reaper front sight and Cerakote hand guard.







minicarbine - Album on Imgur

I do like the Mo Reaper but it's not a tight press fit like factory and I did scratch some of the finish off trying to get the roll pin inserted. It has two set screws on the bottom. I put them in with blue loctite. I'm a little nervous about shooting it with them on there with only blue but I couldn't find red in my home. I think I'll re do them with red later then shoot it not sure. I think it's on straight, it may be off by half a milimeter or so hard to tell. Thanks Sandog for talking me into keeping my 197 series and not upgrading to 583. The only thing I really want to do to is possibly rear sight and a bayonet lug. The prior is easy to find the later... not so much

Last edited by StevenJ61; November 11th, 2015 at 02:48 PM.
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Old November 12th, 2015, 02:27 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenJ61 View Post
The only thing I really want to do to is possibly rear sight and a bayonet lug. The prior is easy to find the later... not so much
Steven, good luck with the bayonet lug. I don't think you have enough room between the strut and the end of your flash suppressor to accommodate the length of a bayonet. Even if you do, a couple of firings and it will likely start to melt the handle of the bayonet. I'm running into the same challenges with my 181-series GB with a modified strut. If you do find a way, please let us know!
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