Did the first field strip/cleaning on the Mark III and had some issuesThis is a discussion on Did the first field strip/cleaning on the Mark III and had some issues within the Ruger Rimfires forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Take-down was cake really. Assembling I put a couple of small scratches on my new plinker. Mainly due to getting the pin back in, so ...
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September 21st, 2012, 09:10 AM
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#1 |
Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North East, MD
Posts: 528
| Did the first field strip/cleaning on the Mark III and had some issues
Take-down was cake really. Assembling I put a couple of small scratches on my new plinker. Mainly due to getting the pin back in, so will need to polish. I think the big hang-up was not dropping the mag to get the pin fully through. After getting really frustrated I dropped the mag and it slid right in. I know I will get better at doing it the more times I do it. Just a shame I put a couple of scratches on it first time.
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September 21st, 2012, 09:28 AM
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#2 |
Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: California
Posts: 2,908
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I own a Mark I that I bought new in 1976, and I continue to put scratches in it. It's a good, accurate pistol, but a PITA to re-assemble after field stripping.
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September 21st, 2012, 11:06 AM
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#4 |
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Idaho
Posts: 757
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They can be tough to seat...The problem is often getting them past that last 1/8" of an inch...a firm grip and a little upward pressure on the mainspring housing while rocking the pin back and forth will usually work to get it past the end of the guide rod.
They can be a real bugger to get to seat...the good news is that over time it should become easier...
Not sure if I understand the part about the magazine?
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September 21st, 2012, 11:23 AM
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#5 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Lancaster County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 292
| I have a MkII Govt that I bought new in '86. I stripped it down to clean it once when I first had it, and it was such a PITA that I never did it again. Now I just flush the action with a spray can of Birchwood Casey crud buster, brush and swab out the bore, then lightly oil it with a good gun oil. It's always functions perfectly, and I have no scratches on the gun. | |
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September 21st, 2012, 11:58 AM
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#6 |
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Idaho
Posts: 757
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Thats one way to do it...  | |
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September 21st, 2012, 12:06 PM
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#7 |
Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 779
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I also put a little dent/scratch on the muzzle end of mine because mine came apart a lot easier than expected, and I had a slip of the hand. Oh well. While I try to take care of my guns, I buy them to use them, not put them in a glass box on the wall, although my SR1911 could certainly fill that role, it's such a good looking gun.
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September 21st, 2012, 12:19 PM
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#8 |
Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North East, MD
Posts: 528
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Yea I had the barrel come off too and smash to the ground. Might have got one little scratch there. I think it will get better now knowing what to look out for next time. I have to watch some Stainless polishing videos on YouTube tonight to get the approach on taking out the scratches. The ones for removing the 1911 idiot marks should work perfect for mine!
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September 21st, 2012, 12:58 PM
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#9 |
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: SE Pennsylvania
Posts: 127
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I've got a mark 1 too and PITA does not fully describe the assembly process. Great gun other than that.... Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxrider14  I own a Mark I that I bought new in 1976, and I continue to put scratches in it. It's a good, accurate pistol, but a PITA to re-assemble after field stripping. | | |
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September 21st, 2012, 01:03 PM
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#10 |
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: northern Wisconsin
Posts: 2,765
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On Marks, it sometimes helps to pull back on the trigger while trying to seat that pin and, especially, keep it there while trying to close the latch.
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September 21st, 2012, 02:25 PM
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#11 | | Zombie Hunter
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 239
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My MkII has always been more fun to shoot than clean. There are a lot of little parts in there. It's worth it though, a cllean sidearm is a happy sidearm.  | |
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September 21st, 2012, 02:59 PM
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#12 |
Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NE NSW Australia.
Posts: 18,929
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Welcome to the club, you've been through your "right of passage".
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September 21st, 2012, 04:52 PM
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#13 |
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Idaho
Posts: 757
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I'd thought about buying one of the two piece pins, and promptly nixed the idea, after going to the trouble of becoming proficient at disassemble reassembly...I figure that all I'd accomplish at that point would be adding a couple extra parts to loose...
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September 26th, 2012, 07:37 PM
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#14 |
Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North East, MD
Posts: 528
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Well I went back today first time since the cleaning. Ran perfect for 300.
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September 26th, 2012, 07:59 PM
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#15 |
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 892
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intercooler
Welcome the the MK club. The best vidieo out there on MK's IMO is Moses MKIII dissasembly. I use a 5/16" drift pin that I ground down the nose to a taper and I line out the holes from the top with it. And as North Country Gal says pull the trigger. I pull the trigger and push the hammer out with a Q-Tip before inserting the main spring pin. Watch Moes vid it makes it easy. They're great guns will out last us. Once you learn how it's a piece of cake. Now you need a mcfadden ultmate clip (mag ) loader.
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