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Came close to buying a 22/45 Lite today

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Old September 2nd, 2012, 07:08 PM   #16
 
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Wonder what Ruger was thinking with the gold...



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Old September 2nd, 2012, 08:20 PM   #17
 
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I would probably consider it as well, if it were legal over here.
Would be even more attractive just in SS.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 04:18 AM   #18
 
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Will pick one up as soon as Ruger makes it in another color (black). The gold just screams ghetto to me.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 04:31 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WvDave View Post
One of my LGS suppliers has the 22/45 Lite in stock and after playing with it for 15 minutes or so earlier today I just couldn't decide if I liked it or not.

I have a Mark III 5.5" bull barrel and I just ordered the Hogue panels for it from Midway, but I have been wanting the 22/45 model as well. I like the steel barrel model with the removable grips but just not sure about the Lite. I think it is the gold color barrel with the notches. If it were stainless or silver with flutes I might like it better. It does feel very good in my hand. With my old eyes the front sight would have been a problem as I had to put a HI-Viz on my MK III.

At any rate, I didn't buy it. Would have been $342 out the door and I could have been out back shooting it now. It was close.
Yes, your are right, the gold color wasn't as "gold" as I thought it would be either and I certainly didn't hate the looks of it. Probably the biggest issue I had with that particular gun was the fact that the test fire date on it was in early March, right as they were released and I usually try and hold off to see if any early problems crop up. So far that doesn't seem to be the case with the Lite.
Since then I purchased a model 10143 22/45MKIII slabside of which I love the looks of.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 05:17 AM   #20
 
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$342. Otd!!!

GREAT PRICE, mine--bought 2 days ago-- was 370 plus tax. i had never even seen one before, was looking for a LIGHT 22 pistol for my wife, and wow, this DOES fit the bill to a "T". she loves it and i do also, and pleasing momma is job #one. the "gold" grows on you, after you hold it the COLOR becomes LESS important. it feels great and is a good addition to my S&W 22A, gsg 1911 100th anniv, and beretta neos. i am adding a ncstar silver reflex red dot, hope it looks good on the gold gun. i have addedyellow dots to the sights,so if i use iron sights i can see them.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 06:58 AM   #21
 
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lite color

DPRIS--i agree on the color!! after seeing all the discussion on here i pulled my new lite out and looked at it in room light and daylight. my wife looked at it and said it is silver. when i told her it is supposed to be gold she said no way, we must have got a SILVER one!! when you hold it up against a gold object it sure looks SILVER! ahhh, the color mystery gets deeper, but i now dont believe i am color blind!!
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 08:36 AM   #22
 
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There'll be other colors, just hang on & wait.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 08:42 AM   #23
 
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looks of a gun have never bothered me. i just care if it functions properly, is comfortable and reliable.

to each his own though.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 10:31 AM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WvDave View Post
With my old eyes the front sight would have been a problem as I had to put a HI-Viz on my MK III.

At any rate, I didn't buy it. Would have been $342 out the door and I could have been out back shooting it now. It was close.
The sights are a bit primitive but that can be solved with a little orange paint on the front blade and some white paint to outline the rear sight grooves. Since doing this my sights have been much easier to pick up, even with less than perfect eyesight.

The paint used came from a Sharpie extra fine point (oil based) 'Paint' pen for the white, and although my front was done with Testors model paint you could do it with the medium point Sharpie 'Paint' pen. The 'pens' are $4.25 (each) shipped on ebay, considerably cheaper than a new sight.

Just a little advice, after you apply the white you'll need to scrape off the over-flow so all that remains is the paint inside the recessed area of the rear sight.

Also, did some of the mods myself on the hammer (polishing where the sear rides), got the trigger down to a crisp 4lbs. The magazine disconnect was modded too, to get the mags to fly out of the magwell and so I can dry fire it with out a magazine inserted. All these mods are nicely detailed in a number of youtube videos, that I used as my guide.

Here are my 'improved' Ruger sights.





Now go back and buy it......you don't have any excuses now....especially at that price.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 01:10 PM   #25
 
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I like that. Might have to go get some paint pens for mine....
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 02:04 PM   #26
 
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cocking handle

gunzilla--- where did you get that sweet cocking handle--does it just attach to the back of the stock bolt?? is anyone else having trouble with a stiff bolt release button-- mine takes two thumbs to release!! havent fired it yet, i hope it will lighten up with use.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 05:49 PM   #27
 
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The charging handle is Volquartsen, and it's a great addition....especially if you find your fingers getting torn up by the grooves on the rear of the bolt. It's a simple bolt on part.

I've been told that it's best to 'slingshot' the bolt to charge the pistol and not use the bolt release lever like we do with our 1911s. Apparently it wears out the bolt release part prematurely. That's why I bought the Volquartsen bolt charging handle, it makes the 'slingshot' maneuver a lot faster and easier on the fingers and thumbs.

Last edited by Gunzilla; September 4th, 2012 at 10:18 AM.
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Old September 5th, 2012, 01:20 PM   #28
 
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I just bought the 22/44 Mark III LITE today.

The one i bought looks almost like stainless steel it is silver, there is No gold on mine at all.

It is lite, feels great in your hand, I think that this gun looks MUCH BETTER in person than in the pictures.
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Old September 5th, 2012, 02:30 PM   #29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunzilla View Post
The sights are a bit primitive but that can be solved with a little orange paint on the front blade and some white paint to outline the rear sight grooves. Since doing this my sights have been much easier to pick up, even with less than perfect eyesight.

The paint used came from a Sharpie extra fine point (oil based) 'Paint' pen for the white, and although my front was done with Testors model paint you could do it with the medium point Sharpie 'Paint' pen. The 'pens' are $4.25 (each) shipped on ebay, considerably cheaper than a new sight.

Just a little advice, after you apply the white you'll need to scrape off the over-flow so all that remains is the paint inside the recessed area of the rear sight.

Also, did some of the mods myself on the hammer (polishing where the sear rides), got the trigger down to a crisp 4lbs. The magazine disconnect was modded too, to get the mags to fly out of the magwell and so I can dry fire it with out a magazine inserted. All these mods are nicely detailed in a number of youtube videos, that I used as my guide.

Here are my 'improved' Ruger sights.





Now go back and buy it......you don't have any excuses now....especially at that price.
The sight mods are sweet! I was thinking of doing a similar thing and recently bought the paint pen. I got an acrylic one for just under $3 and states adheres to anything including plastic/metal. I like the different color front sight/ I was hoping to add some hiviz sights but from what I understand there aren't any yet.

I regards to the sling-shotting. Is it just me or can you only do this is the bolt is fully closed when a new mag is inserted. If my bolt is held open you cannot sling shot it to close. I have to use the release. Thats how my Lite seems to operate. I'd rather just pull it back.
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Old September 5th, 2012, 06:02 PM   #30
 
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You are correct, but there is a mod you can do that will push the bolt release down when you take the tension off the bolt.

You have to install a small spring on the slide release so it pushes on the frame, this can be done 2 ways from what I've seen. 1 is you can cut 2 small notches into the slide release arm and install the spring into those small notches so it push the slide release arm down after the upper is installed, or you can have the spring installed inside the slide release opening so the spring is visible from the exterior. Either way that will allow you to just pull the bolt back to chamber a round from the bolt back position without manually operating the slide release.

After doing this mod the 'sling-shot' method of charging the pistol is fully functional.

I haven't done this mod yet, but I can see a day coming on my calendar where I will. The next 'Practical .22 Match' is not until the last Sunday of the month so I have a couple of weeks to research and decide which way I want to do the mod.
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