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New Mark III competition target with threaded barrel... A few upgrade questions.

This is a discussion on New Mark III competition target with threaded barrel... A few upgrade questions. within the Ruger Rimfires forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; New Mark III competition target with threaded barrel. (Talo edition) This is how the gun came new. (Although it came with a flash hider installed ...


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Old February 19th, 2012, 02:32 AM   #1
 
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Question New Mark III competition target with threaded barrel... A few upgrade questions.

New Mark III competition target with threaded barrel. (Talo edition) This is how the gun came new. (Although it came with a flash hider installed which I thought looked horrible. I installed the included thread protector.) Still have not fired it yet...







Hey all! I just bought the above Mark III and I have a few questions I hope you all can answer for me. I tried reading 5 pages of posts, but I'm more confused now!

1) The third picture shows the stamping "competition target model". I thought all competition target models were slab sides? Is this stamped on other bull barreled Mark II's or III's?

2) I first ordered and installed the Majestic 3.2 speed strip kit on the gun. I picked the 3.2 so I could remove the magazine disconnect. The gun was bad to take apart, horrible to re-assemble! Super tight fit! Now the bolt seems to be more tight to pull back? (Still have not shot though...)

3) Now the fun question! Before reading this forum unfortunately, I just ordered the following parts late Friday night. Volquartsen accurizing kit for Mark III, Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor, and a Volquartsen surestrike firing pin. Question is, what do I do about the hammer??? Do I keep the Majestic hammer and bushing or use the Volquartsen hammer with the Majestic bushing? I have read both options here on the forum. Some say you can not use the Volquartsen hammer, some say you can use it but have to either push down the hammer when installing the bolt, or reshape the hammer slightly to match the Majestic hammer. (Mark II hammer if I'm not mistaken) I really want the lowest trigger pull I can get. (The rated 2.25 pull if I can)

4) And lastly... Some say not to use the Volquartsen trigger plunger spring because it may affect trigger reset? Is this a common problem? Will using the stock spring mess the pull up too much?

Thank you very much for your help! This is not my first Mark II or Mark III, but it is the first time that I upgraded one of them!




Last edited by Rpkight; February 19th, 2012 at 02:34 AM.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 03:28 AM   #2
 
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I can only tell you that my twenty year old "slab sided" MKII with a 6 7/8" barrel is marked the same, "Competition Target Model".
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Old February 19th, 2012, 05:04 AM   #3
 
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RP, I can try to answer points 2, 3 and 4. I have a MkIII that I put the same speed strip kit AND a volquartsen sear and trigger.

I sometimes imagine that the bolt is a little harder to retract. But after you've done it, do it again since the hammer is already retracted; you'll notice that it's a lot easier. It doesn't seem to be a problem when firing mine (it still cycles just fine).

I avoided the whole accurizing kit because I didn't need a new hammer (and I'm a lefty so the extended bolt release would just get in the way). Instead I opted for the sear and trigger alone.....after putting in the new parts I fiddled with the action to make sure everything worked....sometimes the disconnector would not reset properly. On a hunch I put the original plunger spring back in and it took care of the problem (In a very scientific test I squeezed each spring between my fingers and the original seems stouter).

Haven't measured trigger pull officially but with the 3.2 hammer and the Volquartsen sear it's pretty g-dd--n smooth and light.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 09:14 AM   #4
 
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1) Yes, I've seen Competition Target Model stamped on other Marks with bull barrel and adjustable sights, but I have no idea how long Ruger has been doing this. This is stamped on the right side of the receiver on our current MKIII Competiton (slabsides). On the left side it is stamped Mark III Target. Don't know if these stampings have any significance other than to tell you you have the bull barrel, adjustable sights version. I'm not enough of a Ruger historian to say.

2) Marks vary tremendously as to how easy they disassemble out of the box and it seems the new ones are tighter than ever. Just picked up a MKIII Hunter, last week, and had to use the wooden block/wooden dowel to get it apart and back together, again. Worst ever Mark I've tackled, yet. From experience, though, I can tell you that it will get easier for both you and the gun the more you break down your new Mark.

3) Have no experience with the Majestic, but have added the full Volquartsen treatment to both of our Mark IIIs, but went with a MKII bushing on both and got rid of the magazine safety stuff. Very easy conversion. Will be adding the Exact Edge extractors to both when they arrive this week.

4) I used the Volquartsen trigger spring and I did have some slow resets, but that was easily eliminated by backing off a bit more on the pre-travel adjustment. Had the VQ trigger set to take up as much pre-travel as possible, but now that I have backed it off a bit, no problem. I'll settle for the little extra pre-travel to get more positive resets. You can check the reset by cocking the bolt, but keeping the trigger pulled, then listening to how positive the rest is when you release the trigger. If I have more problems, I'll just go back to the original spring, but so far, so good.

Last edited by North country gal; February 19th, 2012 at 09:16 AM.
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 04:16 PM   #5
 
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My advice; scrap the speed strip kit.

I have a MKIII Competition with the slab sided barrel. I too tried to install the Majestic Arms speed strip kit along with all the Volquartsen goodies.

The Majestic Arms speed strip kit will not work if you use a Volquartsen sear! Volquartsen uses a slightly different geometry on their sear than the stock sear, which results in the cocked hammer being in a higher position, so that the Majestic Arms hammer will not cam under the bolt as it should when you insert the bolt. I tried reaching back through the ejection port with a brass rod to depress the hammer while inserting the bolt, but I never did get the bolt back in the gun; it was a colossal PITA!

Then I thought well, I'll still keep the speed strip kit just because I like the look of the hex pin better, but assemble the gun in the normal manner. But the Majestic Arms hex pin is not quite as tapered on the end as the stock pin, and it was a battle royal to get that #%$! pin through the receiver.

Bottom line: My Majestic Arms speed strip kit is doing great service in the local land fill. I would rather put up with the slight inconvenience of normal disassembly / reassembly than give up all the benefits of the full Volquartsen package of trigger, hammer, sear and titanium disconnector.
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 11:40 PM   #6
 
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Even though I have not live fired it yet, I have dry fired it 50-100 times now with the Volquartsen Mark III accurizer kit, Volquartsen extractor, and the Majestic speed strip kit. My Volquartsen firing pin is not here yet, so not too worried about dry firing with stock firing pin. BUT, I am using the Volquartsen hammer and sear with the Majestic hex pin and Majestic hammer bushing.

The only thing that needed modified is that I had to put a washer in between the hammer and the bushing because the Volquartsen hammer is a Mark III hammer with the side notched out for the magazine disconnect parts. The Majestic bushing was slightly big, and would try to sit at an angle when installed in the hammer. If I would of notched the bushing edge to fit flush on the hammer, there would be too much side to side play in the hammer. The washer spaced it away from the hammer perfect, and the hammer fit very nicely in the frame side to side wise.

Now, you are correct that the hammer does stick up more with the bolt removed. I can easily stick my pinky in the back of the receiver and push the hammer down where it will stay down to install the bolt. The hammer will stay down untill I screw in the hex pin, then you can hear it snap up again.

Installing the hex pin is a little of a pain, but not too bad anymore. I ground down the fork end of the recoil spring plunger, and rounded up the hex head slightly more. I also rounded off the base of the hex pin (right above the threads) slightly, which helps you get it started and installed from the top. (I too also like the looks of the hex pin.)

I smoothed all the rough edges in regards to the bolts action as it seemed that the bolt was sticking and scraping slightly in the receiver. When I tore down the parts on/in the bolt, I smoothed down the knife edges then cleaned up the surface of the bolt. The half moon of the recoil spring guide had to be smoothed down because it was very rough, and slightly tall. I smoothed the sharp edge around the inside of the ejection port. The bolt now fits like it was on ball bearings.

My scale is not super accurate when used with guns, but it does ok... The stock gun with the Majestic hammer tested at 3.7 lbs. With the accurizing kit, it tested at 2.4,lbs. I think it's lower, but hard to measure that fine. So far, with 50+ dry fires, the hammer and sear never once slipped or failed to reset after releasing the trigger.

I'm waiting for the Volquartsen firing pin to arrive before I shoot it, and I now have a low profile dome reflex red dot sight coming also. This thing is going to be a blast to shoot, before and after the suppressor!
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Old March 12th, 2012, 09:30 AM   #7
 
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Glad you were resourceful enough to make your Majestic Arms speed strip kit work along with the Volquartsen parts!
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