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New Mark IV Competition Questions

This is a discussion on New Mark IV Competition Questions within the Ruger Rimfires forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; I have a new Mark IV Competition model, around 500 rounds so far. Here are my observations/issues: It was difficult to get the barrel back ...


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Old May 7th, 2017, 06:30 AM   #1
 
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New Mark IV Competition Questions

I have a new Mark IV Competition model, around 500 rounds so far. Here are my observations/issues:

It was difficult to get the barrel back on the first few times. Last time I cleaned it I noticed the pin that holds the takedown button had come out of the left side of the frame. After getting that back in the barrel goes on much better so I don't know if this was always an issue or if it worked itself out while shooting. Need to watch this over the next few range sessions. Anyone else see this?

First time out I tried 6 different types of ammo over about 120 rounds and no issues. Second time out no issues, third time out had 2 stovepipes over 100 rounds, 1 each in 2 different ammo types. I'm going to use only mini mags over the next few 100 rounds to break it in.

I had to adjust sights from factory, probably normal, but the windage is very difficult in one direction. I have read you need to relieve the spring tension when adjusting but don't know how. Can anyone explain this to me?

I have the Volquartsen accurizer kit on hand but after reading problems with it not sure if I should try it. Someone said they are redesigning the sear? Also, some had to send in the transfer bar to get it fixed? Also, problems with cocking the hammer to the right place, i.e. not level but about 30 degrees. I've read the VQ instructions and watched videos but no one addresses the cocking issue. Any help with this?

Thanks, newbie to this site.



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Old May 7th, 2017, 07:46 AM   #2
 
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The barrel will get easier to put on as the latch wears in. It just has some tight tolerances.

There was one person I read about that had problems with the takedown pin walking out. There's a notch in it that the spring under the button is supposed to slip into. This person concluded that the spring needed to be stretched open a little to work better for him. I don't know if yours will need that, but keep an eye on it.

The sight windage spring pushes the insert to the right. Push it to the left to make the adjustment screw easier to turn.

VQ redesigned the sear for the MKIV kit. Some have had problems and have been sent a MKII/MKIII disconnector as a fix. They are designing a new sear spring that is supposed to fix the problem. I don't understand the connection there, but we'll see how it works.

The hammer cocking problem is new to the MKIV. I think it is caused by a wider angle the main spring sits at. If I were to buy a MKIV, I think I would make a wood "cocking block" to avoid the problem. The bolt pushes the hammer to about 15 degrees before returning forward. The hammer is stopped by the sear at about 30 degrees. My block would be a bit wider then the frame, with a notch on the bottom wider then the hammer. The depth of the notch would match the top of the hammer when it reaches 15 degrees.

That's what I'd do.

Good luck!
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Old May 7th, 2017, 11:13 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by TestEngineer View Post
The barrel will get easier to put on as the latch wears in. It just has some tight tolerances.

There was one person I read about that had problems with the takedown pin walking out. There's a notch in it that the spring under the button is supposed to slip into. This person concluded that the spring needed to be stretched open a little to work better for him. I don't know if yours will need that, but keep an eye on it.

The sight windage spring pushes the insert to the right. Push it to the left to make the adjustment screw easier to turn.

VQ redesigned the sear for the MKIV kit. Some have had problems and have been sent a MKII/MKIII disconnector as a fix. They are designing a new sear spring that is supposed to fix the problem. I don't understand the connection there, but we'll see how it works.

The hammer cocking problem is new to the MKIV. I think it is caused by a wider angle the main spring sits at. If I were to buy a MKIV, I think I would make a wood "cocking block" to avoid the problem. The bolt pushes the hammer to about 15 degrees before returning forward. The hammer is stopped by the sear at about 30 degrees. My block would be a bit wider then the frame, with a notch on the bottom wider then the hammer. The depth of the notch would match the top of the hammer when it reaches 15 degrees.

That's what I'd do.

Good luck!
Thanks for your response, very helpful. As far as the cocking block I assume you would slide it along the top of the frame as the bolt would? I guess I could try this with the pistol as is. Another question though, can the pistol be reassembled without cocking it? My old Standard model is assembled and disassembled in the un-cocked condition.
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Old May 7th, 2017, 12:01 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seatrout View Post
I have a new Mark IV Competition model, around 500 rounds so far. Here are my observations/issues:

It was difficult to get the barrel back on the first few times. Last time I cleaned it I noticed the pin that holds the takedown button had come out of the left side of the frame. After getting that back in the barrel goes on much better so I don't know if this was always an issue or if it worked itself out while shooting. Need to watch this over the next few range sessions. Anyone else see this?

First time out I tried 6 different types of ammo over about 120 rounds and no issues. Second time out no issues, third time out had 2 stovepipes over 100 rounds, 1 each in 2 different ammo types. I'm going to use only mini mags over the next few 100 rounds to break it in.

I had to adjust sights from factory, probably normal, but the windage is very difficult in one direction. I have read you need to relieve the spring tension when adjusting but don't know how. Can anyone explain this to me?

I have the Volquartsen accurizer kit on hand but after reading problems with it not sure if I should try it. Someone said they are redesigning the sear? Also, some had to send in the transfer bar to get it fixed? Also, problems with cocking the hammer to the right place, i.e. not level but about 30 degrees. I've read the VQ instructions and watched videos but no one addresses the cocking issue. Any help with this?

Thanks, newbie to this site.
Afternoon seatrout

That same main spring housing pin has worked it's way out of my mark 4 a few times now.

I called Ruger & the customer service rep told that they have seen some do that & to be very careful that the pin doesn't come all the way out while shooting (I guess they have seen some actually do that)

In any case they won't send me the new parts to stop that from happening so told me that I need to send the gun in for them to repair it.

I'm still shooting mine so don't have the time to do that at this time. Unfortunately that means that about every 75-100 rounds I have push the pin back in.

I did reach in with a small screwdriver & try to retention the pin retaining spring on each side to prevent the pin form working out. That did help a little but it still works it's way out at times.
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Old May 7th, 2017, 01:15 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
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Thanks for your response, very helpful. As far as the cocking block I assume you would slide it along the top of the frame as the bolt would? I guess I could try this with the pistol as is. Another question though, can the pistol be reassembled without cocking it? My old Standard model is assembled and disassembled in the un-cocked condition.
Yes, that's the way the block would work.

The safety is designed to block the takedown lever from moving forward unless it's on. That means the pistol must be cocked and safety on to take down or reassemble.

The standard needed to be un-cocked to take pressure off the main spring so the housing could pivot in/out.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 12:18 PM   #6
 
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Ran another 100 rounds through the pistol and the pin holding the breakdown button had worked itself all the way out of the left side of the frame again. Called Ruger, they said send it in so it goes back tomorrow.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 01:04 PM   #7
 
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Ran another 100 rounds through the pistol and the pin holding the breakdown button had worked itself all the way out of the left side of the frame again. Called Ruger, they said send it in so it goes back tomorrow.
Afternoon seatrout;

Please post a follow up when you get the gun back as to what Ruger did to your gun.

The paper that comes back with the gun might or might not tell you what they did though.
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