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Dry firing Mark III

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Old May 24th, 2016, 02:34 PM   #1
 
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Dry firing Mark III

Just got a Mark III target. Love the gun, hate the trigger (planning improvements) Can this gun be dry fired without damage.



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Old May 24th, 2016, 02:38 PM   #2
 
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Never dry fire a 22!!!!!
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Old May 24th, 2016, 02:51 PM   #3
 
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You can dry fire it, Just don't do it too much. Owners manual addresses this Page 20, assuming you bought it new.. .
I'd still recommend snap caps though. Manual can be found on Ruger site. There have been issues with a roll pin
weakening and causing firing pin to not stop but Ruger has fixed this with a solid stop since.

Last edited by Mikes1707; May 24th, 2016 at 03:54 PM.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 05:57 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb41 View Post
Just got a Mark III target. Love the gun, hate the trigger (planning improvements) Can this gun be dry fired without damage.
Dry firing is not an issue. It has a firing pin stop to protect the chamber.

The trigger is usually pretty darn good from the factory but there is room for improvement. There are several companies offering upgraded parts that will make your terrific gun even better.

Enjoy your new gun.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 06:13 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb41 View Post
Just got a Mark III target. Love the gun, hate the trigger (planning improvements) Can this gun be dry fired without damage.
Yes, yes it can. Per the manual.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 07:58 PM   #6
 
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#6 drywall anchors make excellent .22LR snap caps (they even feed from the magazine correctly in my pistols)
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Old May 25th, 2016, 04:28 AM   #7
 
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Thanks for all the advice. As far as the trigger goes all guns sold in MA require a 10 lb trigger.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 04:47 AM   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb41 View Post
Thanks for all the advice. As far as the trigger goes all guns sold in MA require a 10 lb trigger.
So that explains your original comment about the trigger.

That gun is capable of a sharp, clean 2# trigger.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 05:40 AM   #9
 
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While the cross pin that captures the firing pin inside the bolt will act as a firing pin stop, I would still recommend a snap cap for long sessions of dry fire. An occasional dry fire event will not harm a Ruger MKII or MKIII because the firing pin will not reach the edge of the chamber when the chamber is empty. However, there's no good reason to constantly batter that cross pin and the firing pin with extended dry fire sessions. I've seen some Ruger MKII's that were extensively dry fired and remained perfectly OK but I'd rather not test that if I don't need to.

The old warning to never dry fire a .22 is valid in some older designs.
Because the firing pin on a Rimfire weapon would strike the edge of the chamber if no casing was present, damage to the chamber and firing pin could result from dry fire. Most manufacturers of modern .22 rimfire weapons protect against this potential damage by designing firing pins that cannot reach the edge of the chamber even when there is no casing present in the chamber.

In the older designs where the firing pin could reach the barrel breach the firing pin could be broken by this contact or, more dangerously, the firing pin could be distorted and remain forward of the bolt face. That condition could result in a slam fire if the bolt was rapidly closed on a live round. In addition to the damage to the firing pin, the edge of the chamber could be damaged by the firing pin as well. So the old advice to never dry fire a .22 rimfire was a valid warning but is generally not as critical with modern designs.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 07:28 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol and Powder View Post
While the cross pin that captures the firing pin inside the bolt will act as a firing pin stop, I would still recommend a snap cap for long sessions of dry fire.
I agree with this. I have always used snaps in anything I plan to dry fire. But many newer 22 LR guns' manuals say that you don't need them.
I have two Remington Nylon 66 rifles that have been dry fired 100's, if not 1000's of times due to there not being a bolt hold open on last round, feature. They are still the only 22 guns that I have that have no failures, other than junk/garbage/cheap bulk ammo. Some of those can be hit 10x and not go off.
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Old June 14th, 2016, 02:23 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by red feather View Post
Never dry fire a 22!!!!!


Always read the manual!!!!!!


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Old June 14th, 2016, 03:38 PM   #12
 
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Yes, per the manual, the Ruger MKIII can be dry-fired occasionally with no problems. However, if one plans to do a lot of dry-firing for practice, you should routinely disassemble the pistol and check the firing pin stop to make certain that it is not damaged and put back in place when the pistol is reassembled.
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Old June 14th, 2016, 05:30 PM   #13
 
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I've dry fired mine about 50 times over the last few years with no problems. It's a fun tack driver! Not a primary SD gun but I can put 10 shots on target in a matter of seconds with no recoil.
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Old June 14th, 2016, 06:30 PM   #14
 
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Have thought about using spent 22 brass. Just rotated every so often so you hit fresh brass.
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Old June 15th, 2016, 08:27 AM   #15
 
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"When in doubt, read the instructions." I don't recall who said it, but I use that quote frequently to my wife. She rarely reads instructions. Ruger says dry fire is OK.

I'm not a dry fire advocate; but, won't deny there may be some benefit. However, in dry firing one misses the actual firing of the gun, which includes the noise and the recoil. Practice live firing is what teaches the body correct technique; including trigger movement and compensating for the noise and recoil when preparing for the next shot.

I'm noted for being a "trigger freak" by those who know me. As of today, I have four Ruger pistols, including Mark ii and Mark iii; all are Target Models . They all have Volquartsen Accurizing Kits installed; with two of them also having the Volquartsen disconnectors installed. The ones with the disconnectors have had the internal rubbing surfaces of the frame smoothed and polished. All the triggers are excellent! The ones smoothed and polished; and including the Accurizing Kits and disconnectors are better. In some respects they are better than the triggers in my S&W Models 41. Other providers of trigger components and triggers are out there; they are probably good. I know Volquartsen components are excellent.

Most of the Ruger pistols I've fired have adequate triggers. My Mark iii Competition Target Model was horrible. I've never experienced a trigger that bad, anywhere. I'm sure it was a case of tolerances clashing.

I'm convinced that the Ruger pistols, at least the rimfire Mark guns, can have the trigger greatly improved by a little grinding, smoothing and polishing. Minimum work is best; just reduce the friction.

Practice, practice, practice live firing, you'll get much better. Especially so with larger caliber ammo.
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