Sr1911 Polished Exterior?This is a discussion on Sr1911 Polished Exterior? within the Ruger Pistols forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Wow! Superb job. You really should have issued a previous post "Bling Alert" before posting those pics. That thing looks fantastic. It's an outstanding addition ...  |
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October 12th, 2012, 06:50 AM
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#76 |
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 1,092
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Wow! Superb job. You really should have issued a previous post "Bling Alert" before posting those pics.  That thing looks fantastic. It's an outstanding addition to the three high polish blue's you posted earlier. (Those are some excellent quality photos too.)
BTW, I've hand polished the slide of a stainless Springer 1911 using a flat surface (glass table top) and wet and dry sandpaper. Started at 600 grit and ended with 2000. And my other Springer is "high polish blue". So, you're not alone in liking shiny pistols.
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October 12th, 2012, 07:22 AM
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#77 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Nevada
Posts: 29
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Originally Posted by 3482jl What polishing compound are you using ?? Mothers Mag or Flitz ?, or another product ? Looks great ! I'm polishing an SP101 now using Mothers Mag, but others have used Flitz. | I am using the green (6,000 grit) compound from Bark River Knife and Tool, also I have higher grit bars of red and white jewelers rouge for finishing. I also use Mothers magwheel polish and Flitz for handrubbing. I have Renaissance Wax for a protective finish.
The slide was so scratched up and gouged in places, that I had to spend a fair amount of time vigorously sanding with a rubber block, starting with 320 grit automotive paper. You really need to get most scratches or grain out before final polishing. This can be time consuming but not too bad.
I had allowed this guy to do it because, at the time, all I had was a dremel tool, and honestly I was a bit intimidated by the job. But then I picked up a 6" bench buffer at Harbor Freight, on sale for $39 and I got a higher quality cloth spiral wheel at the local Apex store for $12. You should have a separate wheel for each compound you use. I highly recommend a bench buffer. HF also carries compounds.
I certainly don't portend to be a pro, but I did do a fair amount of research online before I did this, there's a lot of information including videos on YouTube.
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October 12th, 2012, 07:26 AM
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#78 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Nevada
Posts: 29
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Originally Posted by Quiet 1 And my other Springer is "high polish blue". So, you're not alone in liking shiny pistols.  | That's a really pretty Springfield, I just love the polished blued look as well. I would love to have one in my collection.
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October 12th, 2012, 08:43 AM
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#79 |
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 1,092
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Originally Posted by Super90Girl That's a really pretty Springfield, I just love the polished blued look as well. I would love to have one in my collection. | Well I'd say, looking at that beautiful Springfield Loaded Champion that you posted on page 2 of this thread, that you do.
And again, speaking of your polished stainless Ruger, you should feel VERY proud of yourself for taking the time to learn the "how-to", purchase the proper tools for the job, then having the patience, skill and talent to accomplish your goal. That incompetent, deceiving, buffoon of a so called "gunsmith" actually may have done you a favor.
I'm really knocked out with the result. That thing is beautiful! (The "special touches" are icing on the cake.) Superb job. More pics, please!!! |
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October 12th, 2012, 09:04 AM
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#80 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Nevada
Posts: 29
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Originally Posted by Quiet 1 | Thank you so much for your kind words, and thank you all for your compliments. I do feel a great sense of accomplishment that I was able to do this. I'm a perfectionist, so I will be doing some additional polishing to it in the future. The pics I posted on the earlier page are all polished stainless guns. I don't currently have a polished blued 1911, the ones I have that are not SS are finished with a black coating such as Melonite or KimPro or Cerakote. I was looking at the low priced Cimmarons or the RIA's, would much rather have a gleaming blued Colt though, but a lot of manufacturers aren't making them right now, unless you can find an older Gold Cup or something.
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October 12th, 2012, 10:02 AM
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#81 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: PNW
Posts: 160
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Originally Posted by Super90Girl I highly recommend a bench buffer. | Yep, it REALLY makes a huge difference. I just use my radial arm saw with the buffer wheels in place of the blade. Works GREAT
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October 25th, 2012, 06:54 PM
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#82 |
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas
Posts: 123
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Super90Girl... I know you said you polished all the blue parts but can you tell me are all the blued parts really stainless??? if so i want to sand blast mine to get the black off and give it the matching bead blasted look please let me know
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October 25th, 2012, 07:53 PM
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#83 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: PNW
Posts: 160
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Originally Posted by ox92184 Super90Girl... I know you said you polished all the blue parts but can you tell me are all the blued parts really stainless??? if so i want to sand blast mine to get the black off and give it the matching bead blasted look please let me know | I have already done this, the black parts are carbon steel, not stainless
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October 25th, 2012, 10:02 PM
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#84 |
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas
Posts: 123
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Thanks for the info jrprich I was wondering about rust since super90girl said she just polished hers I was hoping they were stainless. Do you have any problems with rust on your parts?
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October 25th, 2012, 10:21 PM
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#85 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: PNW
Posts: 160
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Originally Posted by ox92184 Thanks for the info jrprich I was wondering about rust since super90girl said she just polished hers I was hoping they were stainless. Do you have any problems with rust on your parts? | Rust has not been a problem as I use Froglube
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October 26th, 2012, 08:29 AM
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#86 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Nevada
Posts: 29
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Originally Posted by ox92184 Super90Girl... I know you said you polished all the blue parts but can you tell me are all the blued parts really stainless??? if so i want to sand blast mine to get the black off and give it the matching bead blasted look please let me know | I can't tell you for sure if those parts are stainless or not, but they polish up just fine and I don't see any issue with rust. Really, if you keep your gun lubed like you're supposed to, it's not going to rust. There's some really great products out there nowadays. Now if you leave it out in the rain or something, any metal will start to rust to some degree, but I think most people treat their firearms with respect and keep them cleaned and oiled properly. Surprisingly, most of the cops seem to be the worst offenders when it comes to maintaining firearms, lol. I know this from personal observation.
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October 28th, 2012, 04:19 PM
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#87 |
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas
Posts: 123
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I hear ya Super90Girl, i just didnt want to take the black coating off and have them as bare carbon steel on a daily carry gun... I have yet to see any sign on rust on my SR1911 and have carried it just about every day since buyin it in Feb. I truely understand about keeping them oiled i take mine down about once a week to clean and oil it whether its been fired or not just to make sure all is well. A friend of mine is experiencing the pains of not oiling his gun, he has a $1200 Kimber that he has had for about 4 months and is covered in surface rust
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October 29th, 2012, 09:01 AM
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#88 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Nevada
Posts: 29
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Originally Posted by ox92184 A friend of mine is experiencing the pains of not oiling his gun, he has a $1200 Kimber that he has had for about 4 months and is covered in surface rust | Seriously? Curious where you live. Perhaps your climate has something to do with this. I've never had a gun get rust like that. Once a week cleaning is a bit excessive. There's nothing wrong with it, especially if you like to play with...ummm, become more familiar with your gun, but you shouldn't have to do it that often. Do you live in a very humid, acidic environment?
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October 29th, 2012, 09:41 AM
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#89 |
Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: North Texas
Posts: 271
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Originally Posted by Super90Girl Seriously? Curious where you live. Perhaps your climate has something to do with this. I've never had a gun get rust like that. | I knew a guy (now departed) whose skin oils or perspiration such as is found on the palms of your hand that could handle a gun, put it down, and in a matter of hours, rust would begin to form. All because of body chemistry.
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October 29th, 2012, 11:29 AM
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#90 | | HeyMatthew.com
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: SC
Posts: 1,641
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I live in Sumter, SC where it gets incredibly humid. Stays that way most of the year, really. We're just now getting some cooler weather, but typically, we can wear a t-shirt and jeans with a light jacket all the way up to and past Thanksgiving.
I've pulled my guns out of my cabinet before and found them with just a slight amount of surface rust on them. It wipes right off with a cloth and some Rem Oil or Hoppe's. I now keep the outsides of them pretty heavily oiled when I store them. I wipe 'em down with a cloth that has some Rem Oil or other such light lubricant to keep it from happening.
Not sure if that's what is happening here, but it could be.
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