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LC9 Trigger pull (Multiple threads)

This is a discussion on LC9 Trigger pull (Multiple threads) within the Ruger Pistols forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Hey, jnichols2! The LC9 is a good buy! I like your approach to the piece. It sounds like you're getting better and better with it! ...


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Old September 24th, 2013, 04:21 PM   #1336
 
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Hey, jnichols2! The LC9 is a good buy! I like your approach to the piece. It sounds like you're getting better and better with it! I find that getting proficient with what I have is a smart way to roll- we can't always beat or modify our tools. I'm glad you're enjoying the ride!



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Old September 25th, 2013, 08:16 AM   #1337
 
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I've had a few people PM me, regarding the video of my install of the Galloway 35% trigger bar, in post #1312. They said they did not see any issues, except for the "click" sound. I made that video as a all in one video, showing the install of the trigger bar and a brief review of the results. I did not do a reset test, in that video. After I made and posted that video, I did a more detailed check of my LC9, and that is when I found the issue that with the trigger held back, the hammer would not rest on the hammer catch, after the slide cycles back. I immediately made the following video and sent it to Eric. After I disassembled the gun, I found the problems with the Galloway trigger bar, as detailed in the "FIX" post #1326. Eric Galloway replied to me by email, and said he was aware of the issues that some guns were having with his trigger bar, and he was handling those issues by sending out different trigger bars, that had been modified to fix those issues.

I am posting this video that I sent to Eric, which shows my findings that the hammer would not rest on the hammer catch, after the slide was cycled back. I have also added this video to my "FIX" post #1326.

Bob


Problem with Galloway 35% Trigger Bar for LC9 - YouTube




Last edited by robkarrob; September 25th, 2013 at 08:32 AM.
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Old September 26th, 2013, 02:27 AM   #1338
 
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Given the blurry photo on the SaintsArms website, It's tough to say with confidence, but it looks very similar to the original hammer+trigger bar mod from Galloway (and what I've done with my LC9 too). I think a new trigger bar hole was drilled to advance the bar timing and the original hole was probably ground away. The hammer appears to have been machined to drop earlier in the trigger bar stroke, further shortening the distance the trigger must be pulled.

The single video on the SaintArms site is not as instructive as the Galloway videos. For example, stick with the Galloway hammer removal technique and you'll not even have to worry about the plunger and re-installation as shown in the SaintArms video.


Quote:
Originally Posted by revjtsr View Post
Well my 35% $30. bar didn't work so I'm sending it back, but I found someone else doing work on the LC hammer and trigger bars. Both for $30. dont know what they do but its a try. SaintsArms
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Old September 26th, 2013, 07:41 AM   #1339
 
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I have 2 lc9's, 321-xxxx, and successfully installed both new (double notched) bars yesterday, then test fired 5 rounds in each and they both worked beautifully. I had originally been sent the single notch bars, but Eric sent me some new ones after I read some of the comments on this thread.

I measured my tabs before installing, comparing them to the stock trigger bars that came off the guns. Both stock bars measured out at 6.4 mm. The first new bar was right on the mark, but the second one was longer by about 0.2 mm. I ground and polished this one down to match the stock bar with a dremel tool, and installed.

I lined up the tabs of the stock bar and the new bar back to back by setting the bars on a flat surface, and could easily check if I was at the right level or not by simply running my thumb over it to feel the difference.

I ran the test that Robkarrob recommended (post 1326), racking with the trigger pulled all way back, and both guns were fine, then test fired, and am very pleased with the result.

I measured out the original bars (single notch) Eric had sent, and the tabs are a full 7.0 mm
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Old September 26th, 2013, 12:24 PM   #1340
 
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Eric is the man! Neither trigger bar worked with my LC9. Sent him my pistol fri and got it back today!
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Old September 30th, 2013, 09:23 AM   #1341
 
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A question regarding shipping your LC9 to Galloway. That was a very fast turnaround time (CA to NC), only 1 week. Did you ship it to him by 2nd day air, and if so how much did it cost? Did you pay for round trip or one way? If not 2nd day air, how did you ship it, through a FFL?. If so how expensive was that. Trying to get a figure. I checked 2nd day air for my S&W from FL to MA, and it was $72 for the round trip. Thankfully S&W picked up the fees.

So how is your LC9? I am sure it is working right, or Eric would not have returned it. How do you like the new trigger pull? What's your opinion on the difference from the stock pull to the 35% bar pull?

Bob

Last edited by robkarrob; September 30th, 2013 at 01:59 PM.
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Old October 1st, 2013, 06:33 AM   #1342
 
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Robkarrob, I followed your You Tube video you posted in post#1326 to fix my 2nd Galloway "notched" trigger bar. I had to do all three of the fixes you spoke about in that video. I checked the angle on my trigger tab and it was actually less than 90 degree rather than greater than 90 degrees like yours was, which was a little harder to correct, but I did manage to get it corrected. My trigger bar tab was also too long and was also not ground straight across, so after some filling I got the tab ground straight and to the proper length. I also had to file the top edge of the trigger bar like you did in the video to enable the new trigger bar to contact the contact point on the hammer pin/safety lockout. The trigger feels much better and no longer has the extra click I was getting with the new trigger bar when I just started to pull the trigger. I would still like to get the RTK slim trigger upgrade when Galloway gets them back in stock, to get rid of the pre-travel and the slight over-travel of the stock trigger. Still need to get to the range to test fire my LC9, but I think I'm going to enjoy shooting this pistol more than I did with the stock trigger. Thanks for all your efforts helping us improve the LC9's trigger.
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Old October 1st, 2013, 12:44 PM   #1343
 
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Robkarrob

Cost me roughly $70 to next day air it via UPS. Eric took care of it on the way back. I did not need to ship it through FFL. I just had to show Eric's FFL paperwork at UPS in order to ship it.

It shoots a lot nicer than the stock trigger bar. Couldn't be happier with it.
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Old October 1st, 2013, 03:12 PM   #1344
 
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Thanks for the reply enguyen11. Maybe more expensive since it was a much greater distance.



A lot of you already know this, but here are a couple of checks you can make. For all tests double check that the chamber and magazine are unloaded. The magazine unloaded because it has to be inserted to pull the trigger, if you have the magazine safety.

Firing pin blocker test: It is easy to test that the firing pin will hit the primer. Put a pencil or similar into the barrel, eraser end goes into the barrel first. Rack the slide and push the pencil in fully. Pull the trigger to break (hammer drops) and the pencil should pop out a foot or two (driven out by the force of firing pin hitting the pencil). Now the test that the blocker is working properly, and does block the firing pin, when the trigger is not nearly fully pulled back. Hammer forward (fired position) and pull the trigger back and hold it back. Using a small object, like a punch, push in (forward) on the top of the hammer, and the hammer should move forward about 1/4 inch. Then when you release pressure on the hammer, the hammer should move back about 1/4 inch. Now release the trigger about 1/4 to 3/8 inch, or slightly more. Push in on the top of the hammer again, and it should not move forward, or will move just slightly forward. This test shows the blocker is working properly. With the trigger pulled fully back, the hammer moves forward and will cause the firing pin to strike the primer, but with the trigger released slightly, the blocker prevents the firing pin from moving, which also prevents the hammer from moving forward, no bang.

Hammer reset issue. For those that may be having a hammer reset problem. You can check that it is just a reset issue, and not something else. With the hammer in the half cocked position, if you pull the trigger and the hammer does not move, then this test will show if it is just the reset. Start with the hammer in the half cocked position and the trigger forward. Place a small object (punch, screwdriver) between the top of the hammer and the bottom of the hammer groove, in the slide. Lever the object to push the hammer back (down). The hammer does have spring pressure and the further you move the hammer, the higher the hammer pressure. Do not overly force the hammer back, if it is hard to move. Slowly move the hammer back and you should hear a "click", which is the hammer reset. Once you hear the hammer reset, remove the object and you should now be able to pull the trigger and the hammer should move back to break. This is a reset issue and can be fixed by file fitting the trigger bar tab. If you do not hear the click and you have levered the hammer nearly fully back, and the trigger still does not pull the hammer, you have other issues. It could be several problems, but most likely the trigger bar tab is not rising high enough to engage the hammer, or the trigger bar tab is hanging on the hammer catch.

Bob

Last edited by robkarrob; October 3rd, 2013 at 05:26 PM.
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Old October 2nd, 2013, 03:11 AM   #1345
 
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I finally got the time to go the range last night to test my new 35% Galloway trigger bar that I also had to trim to fit my pistol properly. I shot three different types of 9mm loads and bullet profiles (115gn round nose, 147gn flat point, & 115gn JHP) and all them worked well without any issues. Now I will feel comfortable using this improved LC9 for concealed carry purposes. I have the Crimson Trace laser mounted on this pistol which really helps me to aim this small pistol and the usual self defense distances of 15-20' I'm able to keep all my shots inside a 6" circle, but shooting this small handgun out to 25yds can be a challenge, but that is not what it was designed for.
I will probably will order the 50% Galloway trigger bar when it comes out and one of the RTK triggers when they become available, because I feel there is still room for trigger improvement in my LC9. I don't regret getting the 35% trigger bar though, since it is good improvement over the stock trigger.
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Old October 3rd, 2013, 05:54 PM   #1346
 
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For Bob:

So far, I have installed the new (double notched) trigger bar, metal guide rod and 20lb recoil springs. I have 321 series so I ordered (but have yet to install) the firing pin return spring (#40) and power springs, which includes the firing pin blocker spring (#37) and lifter arm spring (#21). I just noticed that Eric is now selling a reduced power hammer spring (#8) and firing pin spring (same #40?) for the LC9 with 35% bar:

Before I take on replacing the springs, I have several questions:

A. I trust my references to the LC9 parts schematic, both above and and below (in parentheses) are correct; the terminology of the parts description is not uniform throughout, so please advise.

B. Why is Eric now selling the reduced power hammer spring, and is it necessary? According to your vid of March 12, 2012, you were increasing the power of the hammer spring, not reducing it.

C. Do all of the following modifications, previously posted elsewhere in this thread, still apply (part numbers added):
"I polished the trigger bar (#5), all of the sides that come in contact with another part and really focusing on the area that comes in contact with the hammer (#6). I did the same thing with the hammer, focusing a lot on the area where the trigger bar comes in contact with the hammer."
"Hilemark posted his work on polishing the inner parts on a stock LC9. If done correctly by also:
1. Removing the friction point at the top of the hammer (#6) where it contacts the frame insert channel .
2. Removing the friction point at the bottom of the hammer (#6) where it contacts the blocker lever (#9).
3. Making sure the firing pin blocker (#32) moves freely.
4. Making sure the blocker lever spring (#21) and firing pin blocker spring (#37) are not creating too much resistance." (Presumably, this one is resolved by replacing the springs)

D. Are there any other modifications you would recommend?

As always, thanks for all your help.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 02:58 PM   #1347
 
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ctadds reply

You may not need the reduced power firing pin spring, as the 35% bar pulls the hammer fully back (like the stock trigger bar). Install if you have any light hits issues.

To B: Since the new 35% bar pulls the hammer fully back, Galloway has found a slightly reduced hammer spring would not cause light hits, when combined with the reduced power firing pin spring, for models 320 and 321. I do not know how much that hammer spring would reduce the trigger pull, but I would guess about 1 pound, or so. At the time I was experiencing some light hits (March 2012), I was increasing the hammer spring pull weight, to eliminate light hits. The reduced power firing spring came out shortly after, which eliminated the need for a higher pull weight hammer spring. Models 322 and higher come from the factory with the reduced power firing pin spring.

C 1: Only if the hammer is rubbing and you wish to reduce some of the trigger stacking.

C 2: See C 1 above.

c 3: Yes it should move freely, but I have not seen an issue with it moving properly.

C 4: Just pull the trigger with the hammer forward. This tensions those two springs and if you feel undue extra pressure, just before the break point, then you know these springs are causing extra pull pressure (stacking). I found these springs amounted to only about 1/2 pound of extra pressure. Then rack the slide, so the hammer is half cocked, and pull the trigger. If you feel much more extra pressure (stacking) just before the break point, it would be caused from friction somewhere else, and likely the hammer rubbing.

No I can not recommend anything else, except possibly the RTK trigger, which can reduce some of the pre-travel (take-up) and also reduce the trigger over-travel. The problem is if Galloway gets a better kit available (50% or ?), that trigger may not work with the kit.

Bob
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Old October 4th, 2013, 03:14 PM   #1348
 
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I finally got to the range this evening to test mine out. Put 100 rds thru it with no problems at all. This is an early serial number 320-xxxx with a replacement trigger bar having two notches, no fitting on my end. This 35% pull reduction is just what I needed to warm up to this gun, it makes a big difference.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 03:17 PM   #1349
 
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Bob, Thanks. Your input over these last several months has been invaluable.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 03:41 PM   #1350
 
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REVIEW OF SAINTS ARMS LC9 TRIGGER KIT


A few weeks ago, someone posted (post #1333) a website that was selling a new trigger kit for the LC9 at:


saintsarms.com

This website is no longer up and running


I emailed Eric about this kit (competition to his business). He ordered the kit and upon arrival to his shop, he found it would not reset in his LC9. Since he has been very busy, he did not have time to fully check it out, so he sent it to me to review.

I made the following 32 minute video, and found I could not get it to work properly in my LC9. The hammer is good, a little rough machined, but appears to function good. The trigger bar was made wrong. I had to grind a groove in the bottom of the bar, to allow the trigger bar spring to rest in the groove, and not slip off the bar. Next I had to fit the tab, to get the hammer reset. Then I had to fit the back of the bar to allow the hammer to break. I thought I had it working good, but then found I could not rack the slide, with the trigger held back, as would happen during actual shooting. Upon further checking, I determined the height of the trigger bar (bottom of tab to top of the bar) was not high enough to allow the slide to cycle the trigger bar down enough to reset the blocker lever. If I had actually fired my LC9. it would have broken the blocker lever.

I certainly do not recommend this trigger kit, as it currently is made. If they redesign the trigger bar, it could be as good or even better than the Galloway 35% bar. Eric told me he spoke to the person who was selling the kit. He is a college engineering student, who made the parts while working at a machine shop. He was selling them at cost, to recover the money he had invested in them. Either he sold them all, or found they did not work right, as the website is down.



Bob



Saints Arms Trigger Kit Review for the Ruger LC9 - YouTube




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