LC9 Trigger pull (Multiple threads)

[robkarrob]

I understand your #1 and #2 mods to the trigger bar and both would allow the trigger bar to release the hammer later (further hammer travel and more hammer spring tension). The filing on the top of the bar is my question. The only thing I can think of is by filing the ramp, it caused the top of the trigger bar to raise up and hit on the corner on the opening of the insert.

I made the suggestion to file down the ramp to someone that filed so much off the tab for hammer reset, that at full trigger pull he could not get the break. Filing caused the trigger bar to rise and stay in the hammer so he could pull the trigger and get the break. I never thought about the top of the trigger bar hitting on the opening in the insert.

On another note, where was your profile pic taken? Looks like in a cave. I would guess your holding your son, cute .

Bob

[Rat]

Rob, I worked the top of the trigger bar because, yes it was contacting the cut out in the action which was pushing the trigger bar down and causing it to disengage the hammer prematurely.

I am not sure but I might have drilled the hole just slightly too far back on my modified trigger bar, Something that can easily happen even in Erics shop.

I did not have to file anything on my tab of my trigger bar.

The thing is that we have to be very careful about reworking the ramp, if the bar drops the hammer too late then it won't disengage the hammer catch. I ran into that with my first try in modifying the trigger bar.

He could try bending the tab slightly, Put it upside down in a vise and tap it with a hammer. bending it just a few thousands at most. It would engage the hammer a tad deeper in the groove rather then on the edge of the groove in the hammer.

As far as the picture, yes that was taken in the caverns out by Piedmont SD in the Black Hills last year. Yes that is my boy, He was a late comer since I was 42 when we had him. He will be 3 in August.

[jlh820]

I've posted on this thread quite a few times and by now you probably know I gave my LC9 to my son, once I'd returned it to stock condition. It was a gun I just didn't like and I felt that modifying stock parts wasn't a good solution to the inherent problems with the gun.

But for those of you still wanting to fix your LC9, I think that Eric's new plan of building the replacement parts from scratch is a much better solution, even though Ruger forced his hand. Galloway's "fixed" parts were very inexpensive. I don't know how Eric was able to sell them at that price. But I would've been happy to pay more for a solid, reliable fix.

By the time I learned that Galloway was gearing up to manufacture the replacement parts, I'd already told my son he could have the LC9. He's OK with the long trigger pull because he doesn't shoot much and the difference isn't so apparent to him.

All I'm saying is that I think there's hope that Eric's new modifications are going to work and with the trigger issue solved, the LC9 becomes a great carry option.

So, even though I'm "out of the game", kudos to Eric and the guys at Galloway and also to (I'm going to get his name wrong - always do, but you know who I mean) Robkarob(?) for having the patience, know-how and determination to see this thing through.

Honestly, I have no idea why Ruger isn't fixing this problem, since, at least for me, it tarnished an otherwise excellent track record with products and customer service. In spite of that, other products in their line-up make them one of my top choices in new firearm considerations.

[Pole Kitty]

After waiting over two months for a new hammer and trigger bar and then sending it to Galloway for the mod., I installed it yesterday and went to the range this morning, ran 100 rds. through it and the difference is unbelievable. I was so surprised it made such a change in how the trigger works now. I personally cannot see why anybody wouldn’t want this unless they can adjust to the long pull the LC9 has. I own both the SR9C and the LC9 and was very difficult to shoot one and then the other without making a major mental change has to how the triggers reacted compared to each other. This morning however, it was easy because they feel very similar. The LC9 has a little heavier pull, but not by much. I seriously thought about getting rid of the little LC9 and going after an M&P shield, but not now I truly love this thing and have no intentions of trading it off. For those of you who are on fence has to what to do, wait for Eric to get his hammers in stock and do the mod. Oh by the way, the mod., it worked great the first time out without having to do any minor filing of the trigger bar. I do want to thank every ones input on this thread, especially robkarrob. It helped me decide what direction to go. Great job Eric Galloway!

[Rat]

Originally Posted by Pole Kitty

After waiting over two months for a new hammer and trigger bar and then sending it to Galloway for the mod., I installed it yesterday and went to the range this morning, ran 100 rds. through it and the difference is unbelievable. I was so surprised it made such a change in how the trigger works now. I personally cannot see why anybody wouldn’t want this unless they can adjust to the long pull the LC9 has. I own both the SR9C and the LC9 and was very difficult to shoot one and then the other without making a major mental change has to how the triggers reacted compared to each other. This morning however, it was easy because they feel very similar. The LC9 has a little heavier pull, but not by much. I seriously thought about getting rid of the little LC9 and going after an M&P shield, but not now I truly love this thing and have no intentions of trading it off. For those of you who are on fence has to what to do, wait for Eric to get his hammers in stock and do the mod. Oh by the way, the mod., it worked great the first time out without having to do any minor filing of the trigger bar. I do want to thank every ones input on this thread, especially robkarrob. It helped me decide what direction to go. Great job Eric Galloway!

Yeap, the trigger mod is the best thing a person can do for the LC9.

Some think it takes away the safety of the weapon but us that have done it, know that it doesn't take anything away from the safe operation of this weapon.

[LC9CO]

Hi, new to the Forum and recently purchased a LC9 and I wanted to see if anyone has managed to successfully adjust the trigger pull. I also have a Glock 26, so I am used to a short pull, not this long drawn out pull. I like the LC9 for its size, but the triger pull is killing me. Any ideas??

[robkarrob]

This thread is about improving the LC9 trigger. Galloway Precision has offered a trigger kit that reduces the pull length by half and moves the break point to near the middle of the trigger guard. Galloway sold over 3000 trigger kits for the LC9 and then Ruger cut off their supply of parts. Galloway is now having the parts for the kit custom made, so they don't have to rely on Ruger. The trigger kit should be available in late September, which is the latest estimate for delivery of the parts.

Watch the first few minutes of this video which shows the before and after install results of the Galloway Trigger Kit.:

Ruger LC9 Trigger with Galloway Trigger Kit at the Range - YouTube

Bob

[Rat]

Originally Posted by LC9CO

Hi, new to the Forum and recently purchased a LC9 and I wanted to see if anyone has managed to successfully adjust the trigger pull. I also have a Glock 26, so I am used to a short pull, not this long drawn out pull. I like the LC9 for its size, but the triger pull is killing me. Any ideas??

The best thing you can do is click on >>>Ruger SR9 SR40 SR9c SR40c, Galloway Precision LC9 performance parts<<<. This link will lead you to the guy that can fix it for you. You can either ship the pistol to him, he will make the needed modifications, test fire it and send it back to you. Or you can watch his videos on removing the hammer and trigger bar and you can send just these parts to him and he will modify them and send them back. Only problem with just sending the parts might be them getting lost in the mail somewere. If that happens then you are stuck shipping the pistol back to the factory were they will install the parts at YOUR cost since it is not warrenty when you take it apart and loose the parts.

You can do it yourself but I don't recomend it unless you are willing to deal with possibly doing it wrong and having to pay for the shipping to ruger and the parts and labor to replace them.

You can not get replacement parts out of ruger without sending the pistol to them as they are now calling these parts "Factory Fitted".

But after the modification to the trigger, you will really enjoy your LC9 as far as the trigger goes.

But here is another deal, if something were to happen to your LC9 and you had to ship it back to the factory for warrenty work, they will remove the modified hammer and trigger bar and put stock ones back in it and charge you for it no matter if your problem was trigger related or not.

I still have a factory unmodded hammer that I am holding on to and hoping to find a non modified trigger bar so that I can put mine back to stock incase I have to ship it back to Ruger.

[Egalloway]

Originally Posted by Rat

Just an idea that worked for me. I noticed a light strike when I first did mine. The bar was letting go of the trigger too soon thus not building up enough spring pressure on the hammer.

I bent the tab a little more just slightly and that helped greatly. Also I reworked the ramp in the opening of the trigger bar so that it was not pushing down out of the hammer so soon. I also filed the ramp on top of the trigger bar slightly since the molding in the action was also pushing the trigger bar down.

While bending the tab will work if you are VERY careful it tends to stress the tab and create a failure due to the surface hardness, result is the tab falls off. The system has more than enough energy unless your dealing with a SN 320 pistol or under 321-65000. These pistols have a 25 mm long firing pin return spring that causes 99.9 % of light strike issues, replace it with a current 20mm and is fixed, we stock them for customers needing them. So I don't advise bending the tab it doesnt need more tension we have a anchor pin that raises spring tension also should it be needed. Again by not bending the tab.
Reworking the disconnect radius is only needed if you experience disconnect t problems. This is caused by factory tolerance stack ups of parts. Generally this is due to trigger pivot point and hammer pivot point in relation to hammer face being to far apart. We hold the bars to within .003 location on the new trigger pivot hole using a clamping fixture and use carbide end mills to create the new hole. This hard locates the hole off the factory bar hole. So we do not have location issues like if your free drilling it. All the timing is created off the new hole location and these guns are timing sensative to say the least. If you drilled your own hole you more than likely threw the timing off in lifter. More is not better all the time. If it lifts a mile but drops prior to the hammer the result will be light strikes. I have a lc9 on the bench now that worked prior to the owner coming to the idea his working gun needed more hammer travel so he saw he could get more travel by moving the disconnect radius back, the result is he now has a gun that cocks the hammer fully but will NOT release the hammer. I can fix this but he had to send it to me.
Hopes this helps clear up some confusion and prevent folks from ruining a running gun.

[zum]

so Ive had my lc9 modified with the Galloway trigger bar and hammer for quite some time now and am debating adding their reduced power springs

These are the reduced power springs that have been asked for to help eliminate the stacking at the end of the trigger pull by reducing the spring power of the firing pin blocker spring and the lifter arm spring.

Spring pack includes two springs.

anyone added this to their LC9s? would love to know if there is a noticeable difference over the stock spring

thanks in advance
zum

[Rat]

Originally Posted by Egalloway

While bending the tab will work if you are VERY careful it tends to stress the tab and create a failure due to the surface hardness, result is the tab falls off. The system has more than enough energy unless your dealing with a SN 320 pistol or under 321-65000. These pistols have a 25 mm long firing pin return spring that causes 99.9 % of light strike issues, replace it with a current 20mm and is fixed, we stock them for customers needing them. So I don't advise bending the tab it doesnt need more tension we have a anchor pin that raises spring tension also should it be needed. Again by not bending the tab.
Reworking the disconnect radius is only needed if you experience disconnect t problems. This is caused by factory tolerance stack ups of parts. Generally this is due to trigger pivot point and hammer pivot point in relation to hammer face being to far apart. We hold the bars to within .003 location on the new trigger pivot hole using a clamping fixture and use carbide end mills to create the new hole. This hard locates the hole off the factory bar hole. So we do not have location issues like if your free drilling it. All the timing is created off the new hole location and these guns are timing sensative to say the least. If you drilled your own hole you more than likely threw the timing off in lifter. More is not better all the time. If it lifts a mile but drops prior to the hammer the result will be light strikes. I have a lc9 on the bench now that worked prior to the owner coming to the idea his working gun needed more hammer travel so he saw he could get more travel by moving the disconnect radius back, the result is he now has a gun that cocks the hammer fully but will NOT release the hammer. I can fix this but he had to send it to me.
Hopes this helps clear up some confusion and prevent folks from ruining a running gun.

Mine is a 320-46*** Eric.

I probly did mess up the timing slightly but reworking the arc and slightly bending the tab so that it is slightly more then 90 degrees to the bar, fixed my issues. I only have light strike problems using cheap winchester white box stuff and it is about 5 out of 100 that do it.

But again I did my own trigger bar and hammer so mine might not be exactally the same as Erics modification.

I know I have more then 500 rounds through mine now, after I did the mod myself and everything is great other then the very few light strike issues.

Zum, I say go for the spring kit. While you are at it, get the stainless guide rod and recoil spring kit. There have been some reported failures of the plastic guide rod so getting the stainless one will prevent you from having a failed guide rod at the worst possible time.
Heck just send Eric your pistol and have him do the works to it. Ie trigger mod, spring kits, guide rod etc. He will install everything, test fire it and send it back to you. I know that it can be a pain removing the spring that is under the firing pin blocker lever. It is alot easier to get at when doing the hammer mod. But you will enjoy the buttery smooth trigger pull with the kit installed. No stacking or gritty feel to the trigger.

[robkarrob]

Check with Galloway Precision. The reduced power springs used to include the blocker lever spring (#21); the firing pin blocker spring (#37); and the firing pin return spring (#40). Replacing springs # 21 & 37 will help reduce the "stacking" that builds during the trigger pull, just before the break point.

I do not believe that #40 is part of the kit. This spring is used to help eliminate light hits, using the Galloway Trigger Kit. I think Galloway eliminated #40 in the kit as it can now be purchased directly through shopruger.com. Ruger has determined that this spring helps reduce light hits and has made this spring standard in later model LC9's manufactured.

I have all three springs installed in my LC9. The most important is the firing pin return spring, if your having light hits. If you have a later produced LC9, it already has this spring installed. Eric knows what serial numbered LC9's have the new spring. Springs #21 & 37 will reduce the stacking a little, and drop the trigger pull maybe 1/4 to 1/2 pound. Replacing spring #37 is a pain, as the rear sight is a pain to get off. Also getting the firing pin out to replace spring #40 is also a pain as the split roll pin (#35) is also a pain to remove, so you can get the firing pin out.

I've got a M&P Shield 40, along with the LC9. The whole M&P line are so much easier to work on than the LC9. It takes very little effort to pull them completely apart, and assemble back together again.

[Captains1911]

Eric, any update on the status of the parts availability? Or should I give up hope?

[robkarrob]

I have exchanged email with Eric within the last week. Those waiting for the trigger kit should not give up hope. You all know he will modify the stock parts, but then you won't have any backup parts. He is still working on replacement parts for the trigger bars and hammers, which are no longer being sold by Ruger. They are now listed as factory installed parts only.

At this time he does not have any date for the new trigger kits, but he did say he is still working on getting the parts made for him, so he can resume selling the kits. He said the LC9 is a priority for him. It's been nine months since Galloway Precision sold the last of the trigger kits. He said that he could not set a specific time frame for the new kits, due to waiting on suppliers. He said that over the last six months, he had several suppliers almost ready to go, and at the last minute they either backed out or raised the price so much that would it would make the trigger kit too expensive.

I know he is working hard to get the trigger kits. Eric has to get bids on producing the parts. If the bids are too high, he has to look at other suppliers. His price from the supplier sets the price of the trigger kits. The higher his price, the higher the price will be when he sells the kits. He is working to keep the price as low as possible. He is now working with a supplier than shows potential.

When a definite date is set to sell the kits again, Eric will post advanced notice for pre-orders, on this thread and on his website, gallowayprecision.com.

I do check for posts on this LC9 trigger thread several times a week.

Bob

[Sam1911]

On the LC9 it's trigger slop.