LC9 Trigger pull (Multiple threads)This is a discussion on LC9 Trigger pull (Multiple threads) within the Ruger Pistols forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Originally Posted by HenryinFlorida
I am interested in the bar that sets the trigger forward (early Break).
I don't mind having to fit the bar. ...  |
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December 8th, 2011, 08:50 AM
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#166 |
Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Somewhere in California
Posts: 266
| Quote:
Originally Posted by HenryinFlorida I am interested in the bar that sets the trigger forward (early Break).
I don't mind having to fit the bar. I did it on a SR9c when I installed a rocket bar. | I'm in, either way. I have lots of mechanical aptitude, hammer only took me 20 minutes, hardest time was rollpin in hammer, couldn't find my small punch, had to grind a punch down on my grinder(bahumbug). LOL
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December 8th, 2011, 02:16 PM
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#167 |
Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: WV
Posts: 106
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I don't quite understand some of this. Short throw? Early brake? I would just like to get an lc9 and cut about half of the travel out of the trigger. The weight, I feel, is okay. It's just the mile long pull. So which product would I be interested in?
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December 8th, 2011, 03:54 PM
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#168 | | Conserviberalitarian
Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,274
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Originally Posted by A4Guy I don't quite understand some of this. Short throw? Early brake? I would just like to get an lc9 and cut about half of the travel out of the trigger. The weight, I feel, is okay. It's just the mile long pull. So which product would I be interested in? | You'd probably like the hammer and the trigger bar mods. Changing the springs would be to reduce trigger pull.
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December 8th, 2011, 08:03 PM
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#169 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 179
| Very Detailed Hammer Install Video Video is up and running
Just completed a long detailed video on installing the new hammer. This video is 90 minutes long. Since I can do the install in less than 5 minutes, you get the idea how detailed it is. It also shows some of the ways I eliminated the stacking problem. Best viewed in fullscreen. Follow this link: http://youtu.be/-tBohhsIKK0
For those that want to remove the magazine safety, I made another very detailed video. Follow this link: Ruger LC9 Magazine Disconnect Correct Removal in Detail - YouTube
Bob
Last edited by robkarrob; December 9th, 2011 at 08:40 PM.
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December 8th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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#170 |
Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: USA
Posts: 213
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Bob, I think the link to the step by step is missing from your post |
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December 9th, 2011, 06:51 AM
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#171 |
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Virginia
Posts: 59
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Rob, I give you an A+. Great job.
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December 9th, 2011, 06:53 AM
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#172 |
Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Diego
Posts: 374
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Eric, any chance we can get a heavier spring for the hammer? I'm going to preoreer that trigger bar as soon as it's available!
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December 9th, 2011, 07:40 AM
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#173 |
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Arizona
Posts: 792
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Originally Posted by customf1 Bob, I think the link to the step by step is missing from your post  | I don't see the link for the step by step video either. Thanks for all your hard work and time helping us less capable folks. |
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December 9th, 2011, 10:07 AM
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#174 |
Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Diego
Posts: 374
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Rob, I just checked out your vids. Very nice work and well detailed. I guess the weld and drill idea wasn't such a good one after all. Another thought I had was to drill back a tiny bit further than originally planed, file fit the tab and ramp to set the timing right and chop the front off if need be. Question: After drilling the new hole, does the front of the trigger bar make any contact with the grip frame? Is there any need to chop the front after the mod?
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December 9th, 2011, 01:56 PM
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#175 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 179
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Originally Posted by Soless Rob, I just checked out your vids. Very nice work and well detailed. I guess the weld and drill idea wasn't such a good one after all. Another thought I had was to drill back a tiny bit further than originally planed, file fit the tab and ramp to set the timing right and chop the front off if need be. Question: After drilling the new hole, does the front of the trigger bar make any contact with the grip frame? Is there any need to chop the front after the mod? | Yes at the radius on the insert. The amount I took off was maybe 1/16 inch on the upper right radius, as you would be looking at the trigger bar in the installed position I thought about using the front part of the trigger bar for the trigger overtravel stop. But then you would have to fit the tab on the trigger bar for the reset on the hammer and at the same time grinding or filing enough material off the front to also fit for the trigger overtravel. It would take forever to do both at the same time. To get an accurate break sequence everything would have to be assembled and tested under full hammer spring pressure. That is why I got the correct hammer reset first. I then added the extra material to the back of the trigger bar and file fit it in for the overtravel stop. Honestly the little bit I restricted the trigger overtravel was hardly worth the effort.
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December 10th, 2011, 05:24 AM
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#176 |
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Arizona
Posts: 792
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Great job on the video! Thank you!
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December 10th, 2011, 12:59 PM
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#177 |
Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Kentucky
Posts: 35
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Originally Posted by robkarrob | Bob,
Fantastic work. The longer video is terrific. Thanks for sharing this info with the community. Between you and Eric my LC9 is getting better all the time.
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December 11th, 2011, 12:48 PM
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#179 |
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Virginia
Posts: 59
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Once again a great video, thanks a lot for the info.
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December 12th, 2011, 08:59 AM
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#180 |
Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Diego
Posts: 374
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I didn't see the Trigger Bar for pre order on Sat. Will be checking the site fairly often.
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