toolman

I have over 500 rounds through my LCR (38 model), mostly 38 special with a few +P. I love the little gun and I wasn't expecting a swiss watch; but it has always been a little loose. I don't think I have stretched the frame, or peened the crane much with the shooting I have done, but it has an .008+ (depending where you measure) BC gap, and .0055 endshake. I have never seen any information or utube videos on how to remove the ejector extension to get the cylinder off the crane so endshake washers can be added. In addition, I have not seen endshake washers specifically for the LCR and I don't know if they cross reference to any other revolver. Any suggestions?

VA27

Don't worry about endshake until it stops firing. I don't know what the specs are for cylinder gap on the LCR, but. 006-.009 is not unreasonable and I would think anything less than. 005 is too tight.

Shoot it until it quits working and then send it into Ruger for a rebuild.

toolman

VA27- Don't worry, I plan to shoot this gun until it is no longer safe, which should be a long time. Also, I am not concerned about the .008-.009 BC gap; but the endshake is out of spec as far as most revolvers go. If I can lengthen the life of the gun with a couple of washers, is seems like a simple enough thing to do. Specifically, I was wondering if the ejector rod came out like the security six by unscrewing the left hand threads. I was also wondering, before I started twisting, if I need to be concerned about lock tight being used. Finally, if the proper endshake washers don't exist, then the job gets more complicated.

Dawgface

Call Ruger and tell them what your specs are, worst case scenario they send you a prepaid shipping label and you get a new LCR.

bearcatter

I've posted twice about disassembling the LCR cylinder. No one seems to know how. I'd just like to know in case I ever need the spare springs I have for them, or another problem.

I've got .006 and .005 gaps on my 357 and 22, with shakes no more than .002, IIRC.

toolman

bearcatter: Last week I picked up a LCR22, which I also love. The BC is .007 and the endshake is .004. - definitely tighter than my 38. I agree with you that it would be nice to know how to disassemble and inspect the cylinder and crane mechanisms. I am reluctant to put serious effort into unscrewing the ejector rod until I know if it is a right or left hand thread, and if they perhaps used a type of Locktite that requires the part be warmed before unscrewing. Both guns shoot well, so I do not need an immediate answer, but I plan to keep looking. It is good to know that other people are also interested, and that an answer is not readily available. At least I did not miss something obvious. I will post the information if/when I find out the proper method of disassembly, and I will keep you in mind to make sure you are onboard.

3482jl

As stated by others in this thread; keep shootin' and don't worry. You'll know when it's time to tune the cylinder when you begin to feel a "gallop" or periodic "tension" in double action.

toolman

Thanks for "weighing-in" everybody. I plan to keep shooting (48 rounds yesterday) until I can learn more, and then I will re-post anything that might interest everyone.

bearcatter

Ran across this again yesterday, and knew those numbers sounded wrong. I got out my gauges and checked them again.

The 357 B/C gap is .005, 22's is .004. Folks should know this is with the cylinder pushed forward firmly. Pushed back, I get a snug .009 and .008. So both endshakes are a smidge under .004.

Autterson

I have an LCR .22 and the B/C gap is .007". The gap with the cylinder pushed forward is about .0015". That means I have about .0055" fore/aft movement. If I point the muzzle up and close the cylinder, the back of the barrel will hit the frame (has chipped the coating already). It's a new replacement LCR that I just picked up yesterday (not shot yet). The first one I had had an .011" B/C gap and was splattering lead all over the frame, forcing cone area and flutes. It was a mess, so after about 3 1/2 weeks I received a replacement. With this said - the B/C gap doesn't concern me, but the slop in the fore/aft movement does. Should I be ... Or am I being way too picket for a revolver ?

bearcatter

I posted a detailed reply about my first, and replacement, LCR-22s on your other thread:

Ruger LCR .22 cylinder rubs rear frame. Normal ?

Are you sure you're checking your B/C gaps correctly? The actual barrel/cylinder gap is with the cylinder pushed snugly forward, but not as hard as you can. Then you push the cylinder back, snugly, and measure again to figure the end shake. The feeler gauge should just lightly rub in a good measurement.

Ruger's B/C gap "standard" is .003-.008. I've been told this by reps on the phone. Most leave the factory at .005-.007. Endshakes average .004-.006, IIRC a post Iowegan made.

bearcatter

As an addition, I posted this somewhere on RF already. A member PMed me about an email answer he got from Ruger about disassembling the LCR crane.

The ejector extension (the part you push to eject the brass) is left hand (reverse, or righty-loosey) thread, and it is thread locked. You have to very careful not to scar it up or bend it when unscrewing it.

Of course, Ruger recommended that all LCRs should be returned to them for service and repair.

Autterson

Yeah, I believe I'm measuring them correctly. I may be pushing the cylinder forward a bit too hard, so it may be closer to .002", but for some reason, my feeler gauge set doesn't have a .002" ... WTF ?? At any rate, the gap seems acceptable and the fore/aft play may be just the way it is. I just found it weird that it actually could contact the rear frame when held muzzle up while closing the cylinder. On the other hand, you would never close the cylinder muzzle up anyway, unless you wanted to lose all your cartridges. Thanks for your response - I appreciate.

bearcatter

I think you're good to go. Your gaps are in spec, and the cylinder closes well in "normal" positions. Your B/C gap is on the smaller side of good, which most people like.