Ruger Forum

quack · August 29th, 2012, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThreeFiveSeven

Quack, yes, I believe they may be the correct force, but due to their length they stack up and bend back and forth over the hammer strut moreso than the stock spring.

Anyone with the Wilson kit able to compare one of theirs with the stock spring? Are the Wilson springs longer?

Also, my GP100 was made in April of 2012. I have read someplace that Ruger was using better springs in the recent years. In other words, these Wolf springs may have been an improvement over an older stock spring??

I double checked the packaging. They came in a kit. Each spring was in its own marked bag. I tried both the 12# and the 10#, and, presumeably due to the binding, they both felt about as heavy as the stock spring, and both were rough.

i took a photo of the Wilson vs. stock. the Wilson springs are longer as well.

ThreeFiveSeven · August 29th, 2012, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quack

and with the hammer down your hammer strut should look like this. If you have retainer on backwards, the strut will be towards the front strap and not parallel to the back strap.

Yep.

I definitely had the hammer strut in forwards... Both the strut itself, and the little retaining clip... I was very careful to match my photo of the original.

quack · August 29th, 2012, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThreeFiveSeven

That picture of the lengths is similar to the Wolf springs...

So you find your longer springs smooth?

Maybe I had something in wrong, but I did it with two Wolf springs, which both felt bad. Then I went back to stock with the same method and all felt buttery smooth.

I may try once more in the next day or two. I will recheck the hammer strut for smoothness (burrs) as well. It was really weird, the roughness was primarily right at the beginning of the DA pull.

smooth as glass.

Wilson Spring's are most likely rebadged Wolff springs.

here's another pic with a 12# spring still in the bag.

quack · August 29th, 2012, 07:18 AM

also if the roughness is at the beginning of the pull, you might have a burr on the trigger plunger and the heavier stock spring is masking that problem.

with the trigger group removed, does it move freely in the trigger housing?

ThreeFiveSeven · August 29th, 2012, 07:25 AM

Yes. I deburred and polished everything in the trigger group, including the plunger pieces inside the trigger return spring assembly. That is all smooth. I put the 8# Wolf spring in there (which I also honed the outside of and polished). The trigger group seems great.

I guess I will revisit the hammer strut and make sure it is completely smooth (which I thought it was). Then perhaps I shall try the Wolf springs again.

Is there some easier way for one person to get the hammer spring back on? I already shot it across the room once ;-) and I am getting sick of messing up my fingers... A fork didn't seem to help much.

ThreeFiveSeven · August 29th, 2012, 07:25 AM

Thank you, everyone, for your suggestions...

quack · August 29th, 2012, 07:28 AM

i use my 10-8 Performance bench block and my hands. I use a small allen wrench to capture the base onto the strut.

ExArmy11b · August 29th, 2012, 09:23 AM

I have used a fork but didn't like how it marred up the spring......

I use a rubber mat that I have laying around, or just wrap the spring in a cleaning patch and force it down, and then put the capture pin in it.

I am not a big fan of changing springs and most of my Sixes and GP's have the stock springs.

I have used the 9# mainspring and trigger latch spring in a GP100 I use purely for target shooting, and it will only reliably light off Remington and Federal .38 primers. But man, is that gun slick!

blbolin · August 29th, 2012, 10:46 AM

Call Wolff, sounds like you may have the wrong springs.

ThreeFiveSeven · August 29th, 2012, 12:23 PM

I decided to have at it again... Success!

It seems I had polished the little round part of the hammer strut, not the entire shaft. The shaft was indeed covered with investment casting roughness. I sanded that all down and rounded all the edges as well. Polished them up, and reassembled... This time I used the 12# Wolf spring (I think**). Everything is smooth with none of the weird hesitation I had before.

Thank you all, especially those who suggested honing the entire hammer strut!

** I managed to get the 10# and the 12# out of their packages at the same time... I put them both on my powder scale and used the one that was a little heavier, which I assume is the 12#...

quack · August 29th, 2012, 12:57 PM

Good to hear.

bryane · August 31st, 2012, 04:28 PM

I replaced the stock hammer and trigger springs with Wolff springs in my GP 100 about 6 months ago. I felt at first that there was a little more binding type feeling as well. I didn't check to notice if the Wolff springs were longer, but I did read in Iowegan's Gun Guide at pg. 26 at the bottom that,

"Note: Aftermarket hammer springs typically have both ends coiled tighter. The bottom end of the spring may need to be spread to keep the hammer strut from binding as the hammer is cocked."

I examined my springs and found that the bottom coils were tighter and used a pair of needle nose pliers to spread them as he suggested. I found this eliminated the binding feeling I was getting. I also noticed that the bottom coils were not only closer together but also that the very tip of the coil was also bent in more toward the center and corrected that as well.

In the posted photos, it seems to me that in addition to being longer, the bottom coil on your replacement Wolff spring is also tighter. You might give Iowegan's suggestion a try.