Brookelynngreen

So my purchase of my GP100 is coming up REALLY SOON and im going to be buying 1000round bulk ammo online, so far i have seen aluminum & steel cased ammo for real cheap. I just want to shoot it all the time so this stuff would be great for me. Of course i am going to have my quality brass ammo stored, but for training purposes i want to buy cheap bulk for now. what do you guys think about your GP100 eating maybe lets say.... 2000-3000 rounds of steel or aluminum cased ammo given that i will clean the gun thoroughly after each session??

Do you think the GP100 can withstand that many junk casings been put through it?

Will there be any long term effect on the gun?

I know its suppose to be built like a tank, so im curious to know

weblance

Stainless GP or Blued GP? It should be fine in either, but I would be a little more thorough in your cleaning if its a blued GP. Again, it should be fine

ExArmy11b

I have read that the steel case Tulammo .357 will stick in revolver chambers. It's mainly meant for lever action rifles.

kiwihunter

Steel case in revolvers will be fine the only really down side of steel,(besides corrosion of the cases over a long period of storage)is that steel can be a lot harder on extractors,and that is including both semi auto pistols and rifles .....as this isnt an issue with revolvers they should be fine.Aluminium is usually fine as its not a lot harder than brass....hope this helps.

Brookelynngreen

Ill be storing BRASS ammo, but for range and country shooting ill shoot the cheap sh*t.

ExArmy11b

My concern is that the stuck steel cases may break an extractor leg.

I have seen the Tulammo steel and immediately thought that those would be great plinker rounds for my .357 Blackhawk, where I can force them out with the ejector rod without any harm. My immediate thought was sticky cases, and reviews I read online confirmed this.

I used to shoot a lot of steel case in my rifles, and had an Armalite AR180b that would jam up solid from steel case Wolf .223. Also broke an extractor on a Mosin Nagant from Czech steel case 7.62x54r. Steel does not "rebound" like brass does.

If the ammo is that cheap, I would bring an aluminum or plastic cleaning rod to poke the cases out if they do stick that bad. A broken extractor in a GP100 is not an easy fix, and you need a special wrench to remove it......along with having to fit a new one, which will be a Ruger factory job.

It has happened with stubborn brass cases, too. I had a used older S&W with a broken extractor leg, probably from someone gorilla arming the ejector rod to free a stuck case. Those thin steel legs on the extractor are not designed to take the stress of repeated pounding on the rod to free cases that are stuck solid.

The aluminum case like CCI Blazer is fine, I have shot 1,000's of rounds of their .38 Special and .357 with no issues. Still, if you look around for deals on Sellier and Bellot or Federal brass case, in some cases it's cheaper than the aluminum case Blazer.

TMD

Your gun won't know the differernce, shoot away.

Yurko

Of course anything is possible, but I've never seen or even heard of such a thing.

v1rot8

Go for it. Cannot imagine any problems. Enjoy.

JimB120

I imagine you could easily bend a leg if you pounded hard enough and I've seen steel cased ammo expand and stick in revolver cylinders with frequency.

If you're going to shoot it, make sure you have a rod so you can beat the cases back out.

Never had a problem with aluminum cased ammo, but I've even had steel get stuck in the chamber of a semi-auto. I've got several hundred Wolf 9mm sitting on a shelf now I won't shoot. Just a time consuming hassle.

For the price of a case of a steel case ammo you could probably buy a reloader and use brass all the time, and for less than you'll pay to buy new steel cased rounds.

KJS

Last year I bought 2,000 rounds of CCI-Blazer .38+P TMJ for use in my GP100.

I bought 1,000 rounds first & they were so stunningly clean I bought another case a couple months later. Right now I think I have only one box left.

At that time I got it at the dirt cheap price of only $200 a case -- $227 with shipping form Surplus Ammo in WA.

I never had a single problem with it's function. In fact, with a Total Metal Jacket (no exposed lead base like a FMJ) & a clean-fire primer, that ammo was cleaning than anything I've ever shot before in any gun. Vastly cleaner -- you wouldn't believe it without seeing it for yourself.

You know how the cylinder face turns black. Well, I never clean that, but after a session with this ammo I was shocked when I came home to see it had removed some of the black. This stuff left rings of clean! Show me another ammo that does that.

You can still buy this ammo from all sorts of places, though not at bargain prices; generally at prices where you might as well just buy brass-cased stuff.

I've never used steel cased -- my indoor range doesn't allow any of the Russian crap on their range. Being polite as I am, I bag the empty aluminum cases so they don't get mixed in with the brass on the floor that they'll reuse. I'm sure they don't enjoy having to manually pick out aluminum cases, though they have no other choice with autos that spray it everywhere.

bwinters

I have never had trouble with steel ammo in manually activated ejection guns Ie bolt or revolver but have had problems with semi autos and steel case. The aluminum is fine just not in semis as sometimes in pistol caliber a bit of the case head is unsupported. ruger for example says use aluminum case ammo only in locked breech semi autos not blow back ones like most pistol caliber carbines.

Dozer02

The GP-100 is built like a tank. It'll easily handle a steady diet of steel cased ammunition. I personally wouldn't be concerned in the least.

hotpeperkid

Never tried it in my GP100 but my SR40 doesnt have a problem with them

Smithy

No steel case experience, but I did manage to shoot around 500 rounds of the Blazer stuff in 44 magnum. At the time I had a Desert Eagle and a Ruger Redhawk. The Desert Eagle shot and ejected each and every round without a hitch. The Redhawk would also shot and fire a round without a problem, but when I shot six full rounds I could not extract the empties without bench help (ie. a vise and a padded block). Each and every time it did this. Unless Blazer has changed their ways, I'd caution use in a revolver. Smithy.