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SP101 trigger woes

This is a discussion on SP101 trigger woes within the Ruger Double Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Here's hoping you get the trigger like you like it and I'm bumed out that everyone says it has a heavy trigger pull because I ...


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Old July 15th, 2012, 05:45 PM   #16
 
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Here's hoping you get the trigger like you like it and I'm bumed out that everyone says it has a heavy trigger pull because I traded for a SP101 in 22 LR that has a great trigger pull. In fact it is as good or better than most S&W guns I've shot. I got it used so it could have had the trigger worked on (I just don't know). While the trigger pull is long it is one of the smoothest trigger pulls on any wheel gun I have ever shot and not all that heavy. I had considered getting one in 357. By the way I like shooting it better in double action than single action. Yes it is that good.




Last edited by staff3704; July 15th, 2012 at 06:02 PM.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 05:57 PM   #17
 
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Sounds like most people who have done the same mods seem to be very happy with the results so I'm optimistic. Already placed my order with Brownell's. I'll update with the results.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 06:05 PM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover View Post
One reason the trigger pull normally is higher on a SP101 than on the larger Ruger revolvers is less mechanical advantage in the action due to the smaller size of the gun overall i.e. frame and distance from pivot points to where the trigger force is applied.
Excellent point. I had not thought of it this way before but it does seem to make sense.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 06:17 PM   #19
 
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Torque. Makes sense.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 04:11 PM   #20
 
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How much time should I plan on to complete the trigger job outlined in the guide?
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Old July 18th, 2012, 04:17 PM   #21
 
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2-3 hours max. I thought for sure it would take longer. When I was done I thought for sue I had missed something. Then I pulled the trigger. Wow. What a difference.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 04:18 PM   #22
 
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Not bad at all. My stuff came in today so I'll probably try an knock it out tonight. Can't wait to see how much different it is with the springs and polish.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 04:38 PM   #23
 
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I will give you the same advice that many on this forum gave me and others- you arent looking to change any angles or add any contour to any flat surfaces. Less is more. Pay attention to the sides of machined parts where they drag against the frame (and each other) and give those a bit of smoothing out while you are at it. Side drag is as bad as rough mating surfaces in my opinion. Again- you arent looking to remove material so much as smooth out machine tool marks from rough parts and polish mating surfaces.

Good luck!
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Old July 18th, 2012, 04:49 PM   #24
 
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Should I take that to mean skip using the recommended sandpaper altogether and just use a rag and polish? I was planning on going very conservative anyway as this is my first ever "trigger job". Out of curiosity, are the internals surface hardened MIM? That would be another good reason to go easy I'd think.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 04:58 PM   #25
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover View Post
One reason the trigger pull normally is higher on a SP101 than on the larger Ruger revolvers is less mechanical advantage in the action due to the smaller size of the gun overall i.e. frame and distance from pivot points to where the trigger force is applied. Probably a medium frame has the optimal tradeoff between mechanical advantage and inertia as when getting into large frames the cylinder is relatively heavy.
Thats it right there ^^^and it applies to ALL small framed revolver just not the sp101. Small frame revolvers also have less hammer mass, which is compensated for by a stiff/heavier mainspring.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 05:07 PM   #26
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milsurp425 View Post
Should I take that to mean skip using the recommended sandpaper altogether and just use a rag and polish? I was planning on going very conservative anyway as this is my first ever "trigger job". Out of curiosity, are the internals surface hardened MIM? That would be another good reason to go easy I'd think.
No, sandpaper is pretty safe. You can place it in a hard surface (or wrap it around a hard surface) and more easier keep flat edges flat (like with a stone). Just use a steady hand and keep your angles and you will be good.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 05:18 PM   #27
 
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Gotcha.
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Old July 18th, 2012, 09:12 PM   #28
 
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Got it all done. Difference in effort and feel are night and day. I think I may have gone a little too conservative since the trigger still has a bit of grit to it. I was thinking a few hundred dry fires before going back in and re-sanding/polishing.

Unfortunately I think I screwed up on the reassembly somewhere. I started dry firing immediately after finishing up. Every few trigger pulls the trigger gets stuck in the rear position after firing. After a slight tap it resets. Also when manually pulling back the hammer it sometimes it doesnt hold and falls forward freely. Is it something obvious? * Turns out the culprit was the 8# return spring,my gun just didn't like it. Shame because by returning to the factory spring I've lost a lot of the overall effect. *

Last edited by Milsurp425; July 19th, 2012 at 07:40 AM.
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Old July 19th, 2012, 12:59 PM   #29
 
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My gun didnt like the aftermarket trigger return spring either. The trigger was slow to reset.
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Old November 4th, 2013, 01:06 AM   #30
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tglazie View Post
Mother's mag polish is excellent. There is certainly no need to buy any special compound. If you cant find Mother's, and good metal polishing compound will work. The amount of compound you will use is incredibly miniscule. I have done several pistols and have yet to touch the contents of the jar- I am still getting what I need off the underside of the cover!
+1 on the mothers
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