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LCR .357 Ammo Trouble

This is a discussion on LCR .357 Ammo Trouble within the Ruger Double Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Just fired my LCR .357 for the first time today, and ran into something I've never seen before. I fired five rounds of Remington 357 ...


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Old February 7th, 2011, 10:53 PM   #1
 
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Question LCR .357 Ammo Trouble

Just fired my LCR .357 for the first time today, and ran into something I've never seen before. I fired five rounds of Remington 357 magnum 158 gr. semi-jacket, and when I opened the cylinder and turned the gun up, the brass didn't fall out. I pressed the extractor, and the brass only moved the length of the extractor. I had to pull each one out by hand. The brass appeared to have swelled at the point where the bullet is crimped, causing the brass to drag on the way out of the cylinder. I had already fired rounds from the same box of ammo in two other 357's I own with no problem. As I had never seen this happen before, I fired one more round, leaving the brass in the cylinder, and took it back to the gun shop I purchased it from. After explaining the problem, and showing them the spent brass, the example still in the cylinder, and the box of ammo, I was given two possible causes. The ammo was too hot of a load, and guns with titanium cylinders some times do this because they don't swell and contract like steel cylinders do. I'm not sure if either is true, but I could hear the bullsh#t alarm going off in the back of my mind. Their solution was for me to try another brand of ammo, or using the same Remington ammo, fire the rest of the box, and see if the gun "breaks in". I plan on calling Ruger as soon as possible, but in the mean time, if anyone else has had a similar problem, could you please let me know what the outcome was?



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Old February 8th, 2011, 03:38 AM   #2
 
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Did you fire 38 spl before you shot the 357 loads?

If you did the 357 brass is sticking to the carbon ring from the 38s.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 03:41 AM   #3
 
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the LCR's cylinder is not titanium.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:04 AM   #4
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What did the primers look like? Were they flattened? Firearms react differently with certain ammo and show excess pressure signs. I have had one revolver show pressure with 38 Spl DEWC loads that were by no means heavy loads. I fired them off in a different revolver without any signs of excess pressure. It can be real quirky sometimes as it could be the bullet, the powder or any number of other things that caused it but the good thing is you recoginized the excess pressure signs in that firearm and stopped.

Stirfry is correct the cylinder isn't titanium, it's stainless steel.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:04 AM   #5
 
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That happens if I fire a bunch of .38s before .357 in my wheel guns.


Cheers,

Geoff
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:27 AM   #6
 
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Hey Skinskin, get another brand of ammo and try that first. Sometimes there is a slight size difference in brass from makers of ammo. Try Federal or white box ammo and see if you have the same trouble. If you do then send the gun back in to Ruger..they will fix it. Personally, I have the very same gun and the holes were a little tight at first with .357 ammo but I do not plan on shooting .357 in it, only hot .38 +P. I shoot the +P and the shells eject cleanly, even my own handloads. Good Luck.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:35 AM   #7
 
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if you didn't have to use a hammer to extract the cases it sounds pretty normal. the ejector rod is a little short for magnums length cases but it would eject .38 length a bit better.
seeng as how your gunshop buddy didn't know the cylinder is stainless steel, I wouldn't listen to him.

maybe a little chamber polishing would help but I wouldn't get carried away. tight chambers ain't all bad.

for me a KLCR .357 makes a dandy +p .38 backup to a good .357 and is able to share ammo in a pinch.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:44 AM   #8
 
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All my .454's (one SRH and two Alaskans) hung up the cases firing Magtech ammo. I have never fired any LC's in it, so there definitely wasn't a ring of powder from firing a shorter case. The cases will push out easily one at a time with a pencil, so it's not like they are lodged in there or something, but they will not come out at all using the extractor.

Change ammo, and give it some time to break in! But, your extractor isn't full length, so you may have to keep the chambers squeaky clean if you want to depend on any case being able to just drop out.

Last edited by off road; February 8th, 2011 at 09:19 AM.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:48 AM   #9
 
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Mine did that, so I cleaned the cylinders. Now it doesn't do that.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 10:13 AM   #10
 
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Nope. The six shots i fired were the first.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 01:18 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinskin72 View Post
Nope. The six shots i fired were the first.
There it is, them cylinders aint clean stating out.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 02:16 PM   #12
 
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Titanium cylinder!
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Old February 8th, 2011, 08:33 PM   #13
 
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I didn't think so. I could have sworn I read it was stainless when I first started reading reviews.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 08:45 PM   #14
 
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Ruger's website says it is a "High strength STEEL cylinder". Just checked
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Old February 8th, 2011, 09:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinskin72 View Post
Just fired my LCR .357 for the first time today, and ran into something I've never seen before. I fired five rounds of Remington 357 magnum 158 gr. semi-jacket, and when I opened the cylinder and turned the gun up, the brass didn't fall out. I pressed the extractor, and the brass only moved the length of the extractor. I had to pull each one out by hand.
This, I believe, is typical of short ejector rod snub's. That's why the instruction manual says "Push head of ejector rod smartly toward rear of cylinder until it stops."

Slap that puppy and then see if cases still need plucked one by one.
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