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shimming hammer on GP-100 357

This is a discussion on shimming hammer on GP-100 357 within the Ruger Double Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Both of my GP-100 357s hammers were rubbing the frame when new leaving marks on the hammer. The one I rented was doing the same ...


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Old April 28th, 2017, 05:26 AM   #1
 
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shimming hammer on GP-100 357

Both of my GP-100 357s hammers were rubbing the frame when new leaving marks on the hammer. The one I rented was doing the same thing. I know it's not a big deal and I'm not very concerned about cosmetics or I wouldn't have bought a GP in the first place. I thought it might smooth up the trigger pull slightly and put a pair of .005 shims on each hammer. It eliminated the rubbing against the frame on one GP not the other. I left at least .002 on each side between hammer and frame near the pin. When the hammer is back, that's when it rubs the frame. When it's forward it's got room. Anyone put a shim on one side only or two different thickness shims on their GPs? I'll probably just leave it alone at this point but was curious what you guys thought about shimming hammer. The clearance is tighter up near the top striking part of the hammer so I don't want to cause a problem there by going any thicker with shims.



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Old April 28th, 2017, 05:52 AM   #2
 
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If you want more options about shims, Lance at triggershims.com should have them in a whole host of thicknesses. That way you should be able to get just the right ones. Also, maybe some light polishing on the sides of the hammer would make the finish more even but also allow for a little more room for shims. The polishing and shimming will likely improve trigger feel a bit too. Hammer drag is a pretty common problem that should be fairly addressable.

Good luck. I'm sure there are others here with much more experience and knowledge than me that can give you better pointers.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 07:49 AM   #3
 
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At one time Brownell's offered a small square india stone for smoothing the inside of Ruger frames. I do not know if it is still offered but there must be other similar ones.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 08:39 AM   #4
 
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You might want to call Ruger's Customer Service and get their take on it. If it needs grinding or stoning let them do it.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 08:51 AM   #5
 
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I wouldn't send a GP-100 back to Ruger because the hammer rubbed the frame a little bit. Yea, it puts marks on the side of the hammer - so what? It's a not a functioning issue.
Hammer shims help to center the hammer in the opening in the frame, reduce a little bit of friction where the hammer rubs (it's not that big of a deal even in DA) and may improve the DA pull slightly.
The drawback to shimming the hammer on a GP-100 is disassembly/reassembly. You have to return the shims to the correct position and capture them with the hammer pin every time you re-install the hammer. If you don't disassemble your GP-100 very often, then this is a non-issue.

I routinely use shims on triggers and DA sears because that's pretty much a one-time job. I don't shim Ruger DA hammers unless they're really sloppy.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 11:07 AM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol and Powder View Post
I wouldn't send a GP-100 back to Ruger because the hammer rubbed the frame a little bit. Yea, it puts marks on the side of the hammer - so what? It's a not a functioning issue.
Hammer shims help to center the hammer in the opening in the frame, reduce a little bit of friction where the hammer rubs (it's not that big of a deal even in DA) and may improve the DA pull slightly.
The drawback to shimming the hammer on a GP-100 is disassembly/reassembly. You have to return the shims to the correct position and capture them with the hammer pin every time you re-install the hammer. If you don't disassemble your GP-100 very often, then this is a non-issue.

I routinely use shims on triggers and DA sears because that's pretty much a one-time job. I don't shim Ruger DA hammers unless they're really sloppy.
I wouldn't think of returning the gun because of some scuffing on the hammer. I find it very easy to disassemble / reassemble shims in correct position. I use a little wood cabob skewer to center the shims if they get offset a little on reassembly. To double check, when I think they're in position I insert a feeler gauge to push it slightly off center to make sure they didn't "get lost" when inserting the hammer. Then I just center it again with the skewer. Since both of my GPs were rubbing frame as well as the one I rented, I figured it happened more often than not. Just wanted to get some opinions on shimming and if there was any reason not to, other than being unnecessary to the proper function of gun.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 12:30 PM   #7
 
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I have shimmed the hammers on both of my GP100 revolvers. However, in my case I just attribute it to me being anal about not wanting scuff marks showing on the hammer. I have never felt that shimming the hammers made any perceivable difference when shooting the revolver.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 12:40 PM   #8
 
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The hammer on my GP100 was rubbing to the left of the frame. For shims i cut up an old set of feeler gauges. Worked a treat!.
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Old April 29th, 2017, 12:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1xty7 View Post
If you want more options about shims, Lance at triggershims.com should have them in a whole host of thicknesses. That way you should be able to get just the right ones. Also, maybe some light polishing on the sides of the hammer would make the finish more even but also allow for a little more room for shims. The polishing and shimming will likely improve trigger feel a bit too. Hammer drag is a pretty common problem that should be fairly addressable.

Good luck. I'm sure there are others here with much more experience and knowledge than me that can give you better pointers.
I agree, Lance at triggershims.com is a great source for hammer and trigger shims. On his website, he has installation instructions for most applications. I've used them on my GP100, Security Six, & SP101.
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Old April 29th, 2017, 01:43 PM   #10
 
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i shimmed the hammer and the trigger on my Speed Six. Made the shims out of a cheap set of feeler gauges....and the DA pull is smoother
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 11:25 AM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoe74 View Post
I agree, Lance at triggershims.com is a great source for hammer and trigger shims. On his website, he has installation instructions for most applications. I've used them on my GP100, Security Six, & SP101.
I used Lance's shims on both my GP-100 357s. His instructional video was very helpful. Yesterday when I was putting the shimmed hammer back in the GP, I had some trouble getting it back in. After removing the hammer, I saw that the hammer dog pin had fallen out and the dog was loose. The pin was missing. I found the pin by shaking the gun and it fell out. That was a relief. Is it just the spring for the hammer dog that keeps the dog and pin in place? It looks like once you get the hammer back in place the pin would be unable to get back out and is captured by the frame.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 12:39 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonebuster View Post
Is it just the spring for the hammer dog that keeps the dog and pin in place? It looks like once you get the hammer back in place the pin would be unable to get back out and is captured by the frame.
I have found some pins that fit loosely and some fairly tight in my Rugers. I would think as you note the pin could not come out once the hammer is in place on the pivot. Perhaps, the pin fell out before getting the hammer into position all the way.

Does give me a thought. If the pins can back out that could be another source of drag and roughness in the action as the end of the pin could drag on the frame inner wall.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 02:07 PM   #13
 
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If it continues to be a problem, I could do what I did when the same GP's rear sight pin was backing out when I first got the gun. I pushed the pin out a little and put needle nose vise grip on it and gently put some minor indentations on the pin. Then, using the plastic handle of a screwdriver, gently tapped it in. The sight pin hasn't moved in 200 rounds since. Just need to remember which side of the pin I dimpled in case I need to remove it again.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 09:37 PM   #14
 
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The shims do have a way of shifting when you reassemble your revolver. After I got the shim thicknesses correct I used a pin point sized drop of blue loctite at 3 points on each shim, and then aligned them and let the loctite cure. That was over a year ago ago they are still attached. Definitely makes reassembly easier.

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Old May 3rd, 2017, 07:07 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADP3 View Post
The shims do have a way of shifting when you reassemble your revolver. After I got the shim thicknesses correct I used a pin point sized drop of blue loctite at 3 points on each shim, and then aligned them and let the loctite cure. That was over a year ago ago they are still attached. Definitely makes reassembly easier.

Best Regards,
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I like that idea. Sounds better than glue that I was thinking of.
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