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GP100 vs. SP101 trigger action

6K views 19 replies 16 participants last post by  jayhdavis 
#1 · (Edited)
I have read from multiple sources that the GP trigger action is much more "smoother" than that of the SP, right out of the box.

What accounts for this difference? I have heard it's because the smaller framed SP simply does not have the benefit of favorable geometry on its side like the larger framed GP.

Is this the reason, or one of the reasons? if not, what is the reason?
 
#2 ·
I have both revolver's & yes the GP does have a smoother action vs my SP101. I think you have answered your questions the size & geometry of both revolver's. I know from reading your other threads you are frustrated. My SP101 is better now not as smooth as my GP100 but not bad! I just shot my gun made sure I cleaned & lubed it with Rem oil. A spring job might work but you also don't want light primer strikes with no ignition. You might want to ck out You Tube on SP101 tear down & polish & smooth things out. Good luck in whatever you do!!!
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply! I am a very patient guy and trying to learn everything I can about the SP, it's a great little shooter and I'm not giving up on it. I just want to make it the best gun it can be and improve the trigger action.

You guys on the forum have been very helpful, I think I now have a pretty good grasp on what I need to do to improve my SP, I just need to jump in and get started on it.
 
#4 ·
As others have noted the trigger can be smoothed. In comparing to the GP100 there are several factors at work. First is geometry or to be more exact leverage. The distance from the the pivot points to where the input force is applied is shorter so there is less leverage. Second, is smoothness of the action throughout the trigger pull. There is no reason a SP cannot be as inherently smooth as a GP as they have similar actions. Third, I would call perceived smoothness. Because the SP weighs less than a GP when pulling a trigger one will feel everything happening in the action more, that is, there is less weight to the gun to tend to keep the gun stationary. Fourth, is the weight of the trigger pull. Because there is less leverage in the action and less weight to the hammer all other things being equal the smaller gun will require stiffer springs. I will note however I have both a GP and SP and both have 9 lb mainsprings in them and 8 lb trigger return springs. The difference in weight of pull for double action is about 1 pound i.e. the GP is about 7.4-7.5 and the SP 8.4 or so.
 
#6 ·
I'll add to the above. The GP-100 & SP101 have similar actions but obviously not identical actions. However, a SP101 can have a very good action with a bit of work.

Spring and shim kits coupled with some careful polishing of key parts goes a long way with any Ruger SP101, GP-100 or Six series DA revolver.

As for a 9 pound hammer spring in a SP101 - I just about promise you that's going to be too light for 100% functioning. Some folks might get away with that but I wouldn't risk it if the gun was ever to be used for SD.

The factory SP101 hammer spring is reported to be 14 pounds and the factory trigger return spring is 10 pounds.
I wouldn't go any lower than 10 pounds on the hammer spring. The trigger return spring and hammer spring work together and changing either one affects the perceived trigger pull weight (and actual pull weight). Personally, I don't like to slow down the trigger reset and I'll trade a little extra pull weight for a positive trigger return. Therefore, I'll often opt to keep the factory trigger return spring (10#) in place and install a reduced power hammer spring. With some polishing and proper shims - you can actually get away with a heavier hammer spring and still have a very smooth trigger.

I've always felt that Ruger compensates for some less than perfect internal finishing with heavier springs. A little bit of careful polishing and some shims go a LONG way to improving a Ruger DA action. After that issue is addressed, you can get away with slightly lighter springs.
 
#9 ·
Yep, you answered your own question as to the reason for the difference in trigger pull between the GP100 and the sp101. I love my GP100 revolvers and I have much respect for the sp101 as it is heavy built and durable small frame revolver. However, in a small frame revolver, I prefer my S&W model 60 mainly for it's trigger action compared to the sp101.
 
#10 ·
I have not had any misfires with the ammo I use including reloads with WW primers. On the other hand the headspace is near minimum, endshake about 0.003" and firing pin protrusion near 0.055". Although heavier than a GP action after tuning it is lighter than a tuned Colt Magnum Carry (small frame) I used to have and suspect lighter than a J frame. The J frame, though, will have a shorter hammer arc and different trigger feel. Anyhow, whether one needs to use a 9 lb or 10 lb mainspring is a function of how tolerances stack up in the gun and how smooth internally it is so one needs to test it and when FTFs occur up the weight. Also, as WProct notes, one must be concerned with speed of trigger return relative to how you shoot and how the particular gun functions.
 
#11 ·
I love it when someone says the SP101 trigger can be smoothed up with a little work. I must be a dumb azz as it took me over 40 hours of polishing, shiming, testing, polishing, shimming, testing to get it acceptable.

Too fast of an action job and light strikes are to be anticipated. This little beast has the been the hardest Ruger I ever worked on to get right.
 
#13 ·
I agree! I have spent many many hours with shims, spring changes, stoning and Finally this week got my SP101 .22LR to perform as I want!
It's very smooth, I don't notice any stacking or creep, it's great!
I do wish I could use a lighter hammer spring but I understand why I can't. It's very sweet in DA and SA! Love it!
 
#12 ·
I concede, it's been about 2 years since I traded my SP 101 for my GP 100 so my memory has faded, however, I do NOT recall the stock SP's action being dramatically different from the stock GP's action. While there are certainly things one can actively do to improve the action of either gun, there is also the "passive" improvement of merely shooting either gun regularly. I've tweaked my GP, but I have not had to polish surfaces - that's happened naturally.
 
#14 ·
I like the sp101 trigger being tight, in that after 1000 -2000 rounds it will be like most s&w. The ones that are perfect out of the box probably will be off at the same 100-2000 round mark. Same goes for the cylinder lockup. Ruger makes tanks that last forever. They have to be tight when new, as to not where out prematurely, in relationship to the longevity of their revolvers.
It's funny that taurus gets bashed for having a smoother trigger and looser cylinder lockup than S&w, yet ruger gets criticised for their's being too tight, compared to s&w.
It is a Glock striker fire issue. So many people have glocks that reviewers generally favor them. Same thing. If you think review are unbiased your sadly mistaken. I know just by the feel that my sp101 will long outlast any S&W revolver on the market today as well as the gp100.
 
#15 ·
My first SP101 had a pretty rough trigger and I smoothed it up acceptably using YouTube videos. Sold it and immediately regretted it so I started looking for another. I lucked into one that had been done by a gunsmith (no idea who) but holy cow, what a difference. It can be done, just needs to be somebody with knowledge, experience, and the right tools.
 
#16 ·
Factory springs are 14# hammer and 10# trigger. I went with Wolff's 12 hammer and 8 trigger. Got a few light strikes with with the 10 hammer, but some people like the 10. I've never heard of a 9# working well.
Those and about 200 rounds had it nice. I have since sold it. I had hoped it would be good carry, but it's just too clunky for me. It spent a couple years as a good nightstand gun though.
 
#17 ·
If you bought a SP101, thinking it would be a match grade revolver, you bought the wrong gun. SP101s are designed for concealed carry where trigger pull SHOULD be harder to prevent adrenalin rush discharges. Trying to make a gun into something it wasn't designed to do just doesn't make good sense. SP101s are excellent revolvers and excel as "practice" guns because they are built very strong and will hold up to the rigors of repeated range practice whereas other brands of snubby 357s just don't hold up. I tore my SP101 down, smoothed up the galls and sharp edges, which made trigger pull much smoother but not lighter. I do not have a problem putting all 5 rounds center mass in a 7-yard target from a draw in less than 5 seconds in DA. SA pull is 4 lbs and DA pull is about 10 lbs, with factory springs.

GP100s are intended for "General Purpose", which includes just about every use possible. It's a little on the heavy side for a concealed carry gun, however many people, including myself, do use a 4 incher for concealed carry from a good high ride hip holster. GP100s can be exceptionally accurate, especially the 6" models so they make an excellent target revolver for bullseye, plates, gongs, or just beer cans. A 4.25" model is about the most versatile revolver on the market. If you are limited to just one 357 Mag revolver .... a 4.35" GP100 will do just about anything you need. With a little bench time and a set of springs, a GP100 can be accurized with terrific trigger. I have my 6 incher set at 3 lbs in SA and 7.5 lbs in DA. My 4 incher is set a little heavier .... 4 lbs SA, and 9 lbs DA, because I sometimes use it for concealed carry.
 
#18 ·
I recall, years ago at S&W armorers school. That, yes, you can lighten the springs for a better action.

But. The gun was designed to be a little over sprung. So it would easily go 30 years in a cops holster. Without a failure. No matter how often it was shot. No matter how poorly it was maintained. Even if it had dirt, coffee, dried oil and donut dust in it. It would likely fire.
 
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