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Dry firing GP100

This is a discussion on Dry firing GP100 within the Ruger Double Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Originally Posted by DPris I guarantee you'll think it's an issue if you need your Ruger to stand between you & a guy with a ...


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Old March 13th, 2017, 12:04 PM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPris View Post
I guarantee you'll think it's an issue if you need your Ruger to stand between you & a guy with a knife in a parking lot, or a guy busting in your front door with a gun, and your transfer bar breaks on the first shot because you've dry-fired it several thousand times in front of the TV.

Make your own decision, just make it an informed decision.
I own several Ruger handguns, none above the .22s are recreational-only guns, and I've spent thousands on maximizing some for defensive purposes.

Not all Rugers are mere range toys, where a "Durn- busted my transfer bar, guess that gun goes back in the bag till I can call Ruger for a shipping label." is nothing more than a nuisance.
Denis
Do snap caps truly (in the materials science sense) make any difference in minimizing metal fatigue that 'may' result from dry firing?

Anything mechanical, including electronics, can fail at any time for no apparent reason. The Space Shuttle is a good example... NOTHING is failproof.

And on your first paragraph (guy with a knife, someone busting down your door, etc): The chances of that occurring are very slim in the first place. You are probably more likely to be struck by lightning than to have an armed encounter AND have your handgun fail (non-ammo related) at the same time.



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Old March 13th, 2017, 12:28 PM   #17
 
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Yes, true snap caps do provide a cushioning function similar to what a primer does.

YOU make your own decision & threat assessment.
The question was asked & answered about dry-firing in general, and the question about why it's an issue was asked & answered.

This is one of those situations where I provide info for an informed decision, I clearly stated I was not going to defend that info, and I genuinely do not care if you reject that info.

Truly- take it or leave it.
Outa this one.
Denis
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Old March 13th, 2017, 03:59 PM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPris View Post
Yes, true snap caps do provide a cushioning function similar to what a primer does...
That is your opinion, not a scientific conclusion. Since the hammer on a Ruger transfer bar action revolver fully 'whacks' the transfer bar before the inertial firing pin strikes the primer (or primer 'substitute'), wouldn't that mean that possible 'metallurgic damage' would occur regardless of what is in front of the firing pin?

I'm thinking that snap caps are more of a psychological item (placebo) than a mechanical necessity when it comes to dry firing virtually all modern firearms.

Last edited by firescout; March 13th, 2017 at 04:04 PM. Reason: add words
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Old March 13th, 2017, 04:05 PM   #19
 
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If Ruger owners would just take a few minutes to read their owner's manual, these questions wouldn't come up nor would people devise things (like wproct ) that aren't needed. Take a look at this thread .... especially post #16 where I went into detail about dry firing a Ruger. Dry fireing
Great detailed post about dry firing. Iowegan knows Ruger revolvers. IMHO.
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Old March 13th, 2017, 06:57 PM   #20
 
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The only thing I can find that dry firing does to a Ruger revolver is to smooth out the trigger. I've dry fired all my center fire Rugers thousands of times without a failure to go bang when firing ammo. I've been working as a mechanic and tow truck driver for 44 years and one thing is for certain. Nothing is built perfect and nothing mechanical lasts forever.
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Old March 14th, 2017, 05:34 PM   #21
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
If Ruger owners would just take a few minutes to read their owner's manual, these questions wouldn't come up nor would people devise things (like wproct ) that aren't needed. Take a look at this thread .... especially post #16 where I went into detail about dry firing a Ruger. Dry fireing
I am in no way intending to be disrespectful to Iowegan as he is a valuable contributor to many forums, but I personally feel that my simple and inexpensive method of reducing wear and shock to the firing pin and the transfer bar is beneficial. I could go on to great lengths to try to justify this statement, but all you have to do is try it and listen to the difference in the sound of the hammer striking the soft pad versus the transfer bar, firing pin, and frame to be able to appreciate it.
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Old March 16th, 2017, 04:28 AM   #22
 
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My owner's manual for my 22 GP is the same as 357 GPs. So it says it is safe to dry fire the 22. Still, being conservative, I use spent casings as snap caps. I'm not a fan of the 22lr snap caps I've seen...they don't appear like my very nice Tipton 357 snap caps which actually have a surface that feels not unlike a real primer.

At least for my GP100 in 22lr, dry firing was critical to smoothing out the trigger out of the box in a relatively short period of time. With no modifications, it still has the heaviest pull of any of my GP100s, but it is as smooth as any of them.
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Old March 16th, 2017, 06:05 AM   #23
 
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For 22lr snap caps, I use plastic wall anchors. Not quite the same as the aluminum ones, but they hold up well enough and are nearly identically sized. You also get 100 of them for under $6. I'm not the only one. Check the reviews for more feedback. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H5WVCS

You can find the same thing at your local home improvement store. Hillman 370326.
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Old March 23rd, 2017, 12:05 PM   #24
 
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I recently spoke with a local gunsmith who's opinion is well respected within the local gun community and he said you can dry fire your Ruger until your heart's content, without doing any harm.

Even Ruger themselves in their very own literature state it's perfectly fine to dry fire your Ruger, I would tend to agree with the company that manufactured the firearm.
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Old March 23rd, 2017, 05:10 PM   #25
 
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Yes Ruger does state that you can dry fire the GP's without harm in the manuals, but I'd recommend using something that will absorb the firing pin impact. I was taught a long time ago to never practice fire on an empty chamber. Cheap insurance if you reload is using a deprimed, resized casing with a chunk of pencil eraser trimmed to fit the primer hole. The eraser is easily replaced vs the snap caps will only last so many hits and will not absorb the impact after that. I would not use a spent casing with a used primer since your firing pin has already dented it and will allow less cushion to the blow. Heed common sense and logic.
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Old March 23rd, 2017, 06:40 PM   #26
 
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Thanks Montana and Eagle, i am currently using Tipton snap caps with a G sight laser training cartridge mixed in, i have ordered another laser trainer which should come this saturday.
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Old March 23rd, 2017, 06:43 PM   #27
 
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DIY snap caps

Deprime spent cartridge, add a drop of hot glue or a circular piece of leather.
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