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Lewis Lead Remover?

This is a discussion on Lewis Lead Remover? within the Ruger Double Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Any of you lead slingin' gents use one? Opinons? Thanks in advance! Mike...


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Old July 29th, 2010, 07:54 AM   #1
 
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Lewis Lead Remover?

Any of you lead slingin' gents use one? Opinons?

Thanks in advance!

Mike



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Old July 29th, 2010, 09:04 AM   #2
 
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I have used one in the past. They aren't exactly cheap and you'll probably receive a response to wrap some copper filaments from an old fashioned pot scrubber around your brass brush and use that in lieu of the Lewis. It can work but it depends how bad the lead fouling is. Make sure its pure copper not a stainless type!
There are lead scrubbers out there in the cleaning industry for firearms that are a foam type which supposedly work well. If true - you won't need the Lewis.
If you choose to buy the Lewis do some shopping since I know Brownell's sells them but they aren't cheap.
This product has been around for atleast 35 years!!
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Old July 29th, 2010, 09:28 AM   #3
 
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If you are just going to use it for general cleaning, I don't think it's worth the money and time. If you have a gun that hasn't been cleaned for severl years and is packed with lead, yeah, it will do the job.
I have found that for general lead clean-up, just run a mop soaked with Kroil Oil down the barrel (and cylinders), let it set for an hour or two, over night if it's really bad, then run a brass brush down a few times and continue with your normal cleaning.
I shoot a LOT of lead bullets and this has worked for me for many years. Like 505Gibbs said, you can also wrap a piece of copper ChoreBoy pot scrubber around a brush to get the real heave stuff out if you are in a hurry.
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Old July 29th, 2010, 10:29 AM   #4
 
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I don't use any type of metal to clean my bores. In stubborn cases I use brisstle brushes one size larger and more elbow grease if needed.
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Old July 29th, 2010, 07:25 PM   #5
 
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I have used Lewis Lead Removers in .38/.357, .41, and .44 since the 1970's for removing the lead in the forcing cone of my revolvers. A couple of twists and the forcing cone is clean. No problems.

I started using the Lewis Lead Remover when I got my first .38 Special and starting shooting lead bullets. I'm still using the Lewis Lead Remover I got for my first .38 Special, and the brass screens last almost forever if you tighten them up before using them.

I never thought of them as being "expensive" since they last forever.

Having said that, the only times I've used the bore cleaning attachment --- have been to clean other people's guns after they shot store-bought lead bullets. One gun was so bad that you could not see rifling's at all. That gun took several passes with the bore cleaning gig to get the chunks of lead out.

With my cast bullets made from a good alloy and sized and lubed properly, the bores of my revolvers can normally be cleaned with a patch and some solvent.

JMHO - YRMV
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Old September 1st, 2010, 08:40 PM   #6
 
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Best way to get the lead out of cylinders and barrel is to take an old cleanning brush and wrap 100% Copper Cleaning pad strands around the brush. A few strokes and your barrel andéor cylinders will be clean as a whistle. Chor Boy makes teh pads and they can be found at any grocery store. Just make sure they are 100% copper and not just copper coated. I sold my Lewis Lead Remover after discovering this method.

Take Care

Bob
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 05:46 PM   #7
 
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I have lewis lead removers & prefer the choreboy ,less work !!

Just wet the bore & a few passes, DONE & a big wad will clean the forcin cone !!!

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Old September 2nd, 2010, 08:35 PM   #8
 
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I like the pot scrubbers for the bore and a clone Lewis Lead Remover for the forcing cone. I recently recut the forcing cone on my Smith 625 and need to make a new tool to match the new forcing cone. One more project for next week.
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Old September 5th, 2010, 08:20 PM   #9
 
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Just tried the Chor Boy wrapped around the bronze brush. Worked quite well.
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Old September 5th, 2010, 09:52 PM   #10
 
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I just fire a few FMJ before I put the gun away. seems to work.
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Old September 6th, 2010, 07:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GP100man View Post
I have lewis lead removers & prefer the choreboy ,less work !!

Just wet the bore & a few passes, DONE & a big wad will clean the forcin cone !!!

This. Have done this on my revolvers after shooting some lead .38 bullets that I tried to push to .357 velocities. The lead came out in BIG chunks and it worked real well. I don't do that anymore and I don't have much leading problems. As was stated, just make sure that the pot scrubbers are 100% copper, not copper plated.

Bub
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Old September 6th, 2010, 10:12 AM   #12
 
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I've been looking into purchasing a Lewis Lead Remover Kit, until I read about the Chore Boy copper pads. I had a little bit of lead on the forcing cone so thought I'd give them a try. Glad I did, they work awesome. Thanks for the info gentlemen.

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Old September 10th, 2010, 06:11 PM   #13
 
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bub

Boolit fit & hardness is the key , it must fit (1 or .002 over don`t hurt) & most boolits are to hard for handgun use & most any lube will work for most handgun velocitys.

Tryin store bought boolits & havin miserable luck (lead from end to end) at any velocity is what prompted me to start castin in `83
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Old September 20th, 2010, 05:39 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bub View Post
This. Have done this on my revolvers after shooting some lead .38 bullets that I tried to push to .357 velocities. The lead came out in BIG chunks and it worked real well. I don't do that anymore and I don't have much leading problems. As was stated, just make sure that the pot scrubbers are 100% copper, not copper plated.

Bub
I can see from the pic I need to use more Chor Boy!
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Old September 20th, 2010, 09:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GP100man View Post
bub

Boolit fit & hardness is the key , it must fit (1 or .002 over don`t hurt) & most boolits are to hard for handgun use & most any lube will work for most handgun velocitys.

Tryin store bought boolits & havin miserable luck (lead from end to end) at any velocity is what prompted me to start castin in `83
Thanks for the tips, GP100man. The bullets were bought from a local commercial reloader who casts his own bullets. They work fantastic for .38 and .38+P loads (maybe the occasional light smear in the rifling that comes out with a bronze brush, most often nothing at all), very poorly for some hot-rodded .357 loads I wanted to try after first getting set up to reload .357.

I've often thought about casting but don't have the cash right now to buy the stuff. I have a good friend that works in a semi repair shop, including tire mounting and repair. He has told me that he will gladly get wheel weights for me and I'm tempted to have him start, but my wife will KILL me if I bring home any more "junk" that I need to find a place to store. Some day, just not right now, unfortunately.

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